Adam Wayda explains the fuss behind Coutume, François Simon shares his favorite spots for lièvre à la royale, and Pudlo reports on big changes at Eric Fréchon’s restaurant at Le Bristol…
Where can you score a great steak frites in Paris? We asked our contributing advisors – a group of Paris-based food writers – to name five favorite places for a steak frites fix. The overall favorite: Le Severo.
The 150€/plate benefit dinner at Bistrot Paul Bert raised 37,000€ for the Japanese Red Cross, and a good time was had by all. [Simon Says!]
Bad News
A $1,270/plate benefit dinner at Versailles, featuring food from 60 of the world’s greatest chefs, “could not overcome the logistical hurdles,” including lack of running water and “camping trip” cooking equipment. “Guests muttered that the caviar dollops on the lightly smoked sea bass were too cold…” I hate when that happens. [New York Times]
After two trips to Candelaria in one week, Camille reports on the “best tacos this side of Juarez,” the excellent corn tostada, and the promise of pastor in the very near future. She managed to remember these details after a visit to the semi-hidden cocktail bar in the back, where she indulged in the “dangerously drinkable” Guêpe Verte before doing tequila body shots on the bar*. [Croque Camille] For a more detailed behind-the-scenes look at Candelaria from the fella who designed the bar and a lot of its furniture, check out Adrian Rubi-Dentzel’s post at Trail of Crumbs.
Talbott tries out Kei and, while he finds some of Kobayashi’s dishes to be overly ethereal and over his head, he raves about the crispy-skinned sea bass with truffled salsify and the veal with baby spinach and 1/2 of a single Noirmoutier potato. He says he’ll be back (for the other tater half?) [John Talbott's Paris]
Alexander Lobrano is surprised as the rest of us that he likes La Maison Mere, citing a cheeseburger that was “full of flavor and cooked medium rare as ordered,” and “delicious frites.” Miracles really do happen, I guess. [Alexander Lobrano]
Elsewhere in boboland, Pudlo likes the 15€ lunch at Mems, a canal-side dinette serving a well-seasoned tartare, a creamy mushroom feuilleté, and a “delectable” cheesecake. He didn’t have the cheeseburger, but liked the look of it. [Gilles Pudlowski]
Bruno Verjus declares “love at first sight“ for chef Thierry Laurent and Le Bistrot Paul Bert. The aged rare steaks, the nostalgic desserts, the incredible wine list… he adores it all. His photo of the kitchen window, jammed with desserts and paper tickets (no iPads here), makes me happy to be in Paris. [Food Intelligence]
John Talbott and Sophie Brissaud both review Les Deux Stations way out in the wilds of the 16th. John is charmed by the “1950s truckstop” décor, and Sophie likes her chocolate mousse, of which there is enough “for a match of mud wrestling.” And now I can’t stop imagining these two…
The words “Bistrot Paul Bert” and “favorite” are very often used in the same sentence, and for good reason. The changing menu is seasonally minded (come spring you’ll see asparagus and morels all over the ardoise) and a carnivore’s paradise, with offerings like hure de cochon, côte de boeuf, foie de veau and offal of all types in the rotation. Not for the faint of heart, or appetite.
La Tache 1962 on Our Guide to Paris: BigarradeNot in 2012, but I promised to do so when they have the Coutume coffee. Which they will be tasting monday I...
Meg on Our Guide to Paris: BigarradeYou make a compelling case, my dear Tache. Have you been back to l'Astrance lately? It's been ages since I read anything...
Steve Zimmerman on Our Guide to Paris: A la Biche au BoisI'm commenting on my own comment. We returned to Paris in Sept. 2011, dined at Biche twice. Still the same wonderful food...
