Chez la Vieille occupies an unassuming corner at the intersection of two quiet streets, Bailleul and l’Arbre Sec, between the Louvre and what’s left of Les Halles. It was opened by the formidable Adrienne Biasin back in 1960 and catered – like most restaurants in this neighborhood – to a clientele of workers from the nearby Les Halles market. When the towering iron and glass pavillions were torn down in 1971 and the market was transferred to the sanitary suburb of Rungis, the “old lady’s” place remained as a comfort for locals who were (and still are) mourning the loss of “the belly of Paris.” Continue reading Daniel Rose to take on Chez la Vieille & New York
“Chez la Vieille occupies an unassuming corner at the intersection of two quiet streets, Bailleul and l’Arbre Sec, between the Louvre and what’s left of Les Halles. It was opened by the formidable Adrienne Biasin back in 1960 and catered – like most restaurants in this neighborhood – to a clientele of workers from the nearby Les Halles market. When the towering iron and glass pavillions were torn down in 1968 and the market was transferred to the sanitary suburb of Rungis, the “old lady’s” place remained as a comfort for locals who were (and still are) mourning the loss of “the belly of Paris.”
Address: 12 rue Vivienne, 75002
Nearest transport: Bourse (3)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday 9am-2pm and 7-10pm
Reservations: Book a week in advance, walk-ins welcome for breakfast
Telephone: 01 42 60 08 83
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website Facebook Book Online
Reviews of Interest
Saveur (2016) “The dishes not to miss include duckling in orange sauce, a brilliant modern riff on boeuf à la ficelle (beef poached in bouillon), an epic chocolate mousse, and the best crème caramel in Paris.”
Time Out (2016) “The two chefs brilliantly blend traditional French cooking with bolder, more original recipes, offering a small, careful selection of dishes like a sweetish beetroot salad with smoked eel, crème fraîche and raifort (a sharper version of Ukrainian borscht soup), or a well-seasoned steak cooked in Armagnac with perfectly cooked chips and an anchovy salad with vinaigrette.”
Simon Says (2015) “Service à son aise et surtout la faconde radieuse d’un chef épanoui. C’est sans doute cela la réussite de cette nouvelle adresse: le plaisir du chef décuple celui du client.”
Table à Découvert (2015) “Je crois que vous avez compris, cette attente que l’on nourrit chacun avec les classiques de la cuisine française a connu ici un bon dénouement. Je suis sortie de table heureuse et conquise.”
L’Express (2015) “Une déclaration d’amour à la cuisine de bistrot.”
Le Figaro (2015) “Fond d’artichaut foie gras: coulissant dans le moelleux. Pot-au-feu ravigote et tête croustillante: recette modèle, habilement travaillée autour du veau. Crème caramel: à vous prendre la bouche jusqu’à la gorge.”
Alexander Lobrano (2015) “This meal had conjured up memories of favorite meals and dishes I hadn’t though about in a very longtime, I tucked into what just might have been the best crème caramel creme I’ve ever had. It was rich, eggy, creamy and redolent of vanilla, and the only thing that could possibly have made it better was a stronger taste of burned sugar in the sauce… La Bourse et La Vie is a wonderful restaurant.”
Le Fooding (2015) “Splendides filets de maquereau au vin blanc en sortie de bain, avec oignons émincés, carottes, céleri, aneth, poivre; fond d’artichaut sous le foie gras, fondant comme du beurre; pot-au-feu de veau fleurant déjà la jurisprudence – quasi rose tendre, flanchet fondant, os à moelle, tête poêlée sauce ravigote, bouillon d’une autre galaxie avec… un cèpe géant, un peu de menthe et un zeste de citron vert râpé; steak au top, un pelé royal de race normande, servi avec salade, vinaigrette aux anchois et frites dodues; et desserts d’une belle vérité.”
John Talbott (2015) “Go if you can get in. Otherwise you’re nuts by definition.”
The New York Times (2015) “Rose applies his experience and skilled precision to the most comforting of French dishes: pot au feu, artichoke salad with foie gras (the first dish Rose ate when he moved to Lyon for cooking school), whole roasted chickens and steak-frites. Consider it an ode to the bistro.”
Photo via La Bourse et La Vie’s Facebook page
American chef Daniel Rose offers a menu that changes with the seasons, and his tables are always in high demand. The wine program is also notable: sommelier Jonathan Bauer-Monneret, won the title Meilleur Sommelier de France 2014 after winning the title best young sommelier in 2009.
An absolute favorite
Address: 6 rue Bailleul, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a month or more in advance
Telephone: 01 45 96 05 72
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website Facebook Book Online
Reviews of interest
Chez Ptipois (2012) “…à mon avis un des rares restaurants où le travail sur la tradition culinaire française s’accompagne d’une véritable approche d’investigation, de recherche…Ici, à Spring, on est toujours conscient du caractère mouvant, tourbillonnant de l’inspiration culinaire, que l’on fait partager au client d’une façon unique, à laquelle je ne connais aucun équivalent.”
The New York Times (2011) “The multicourse menu — ours included seven — was an impressive journey through the early-winter market: poached sea bass served room temperature with a snappy vinaigrette, oysters and a cap of frizzled leeks; silky veal “candy” cooked sous-vide and sweetened with butter-poached heirloom beets; rich and crispy shredded veal breast confit, cut with orange.”
Food Intelligence (2010) “24 couverts cosmopolites offrent une salle concentrée et attentive aux gestes des Chefs. Le plaisir s’offre depuis la cuisine, scène ouverte aux clients spectateurs. Le pas à pas de l’élaboration des assiettes construit l’imaginaire de leur dégustation.”
David Lebovitz (2010) “Finally came dessert, which started with bowls of raspberries, with the gentle dampness of berries that have been just-picked, floating in a light peach tea with unsweetened cocoa nibs bobbing in the broth, which provided not-too-sweet transition to dessert.”
Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Our lunch as privileged guineau pigs was sensational. Rose plans to build his lunch menu around bouillon with different garnishes… the best bouillon I’ve ever had in my life–deep, ruddy, potent and profoundly soothing, with grilled chicken and tiny vegetables. Desserts were superb, too…”
John Talbott (2010) “It was the most interesting and fascinating food experience I think I’ve ever had… The concept for lunch: a fixed price bouillon of the day with chicken, although pigeon could be substituted, and veggies; and a selection of something like 10 small plates, which depending on whether you were on the fly or siitting down to an extended repast, could be served family/Asian style or one by one, in portions that will probably serve two persons.”
Chef Daniel Rose of Spring restaurant has just published a cookbook. He drew the pictures himself, wrote recipes with Sophie Brissaud, and even included a few short stories (whah?).
In Paris, Spring Book is available at the restaurant (6 rue Bailleul 75001, 01 45 96 05 72) and at the Librairie Gourmande and Colette. . International readers can purchase online and have it signed & shipped – more information here.
At the time, the American chef was unaware that a new restaurant had just opened in Paris bearing the improbable name of Danny Rose Bistrot Americain. Is it possible that the owners of this new place near the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont were unaware of another Daniel Rose in Paris, one who happened to be American and to have one of the most popular restaurants (and web searches) in town? After speaking on the phone with the owners of Danny Rose, the Spring chef Daniel Rose is persuaded that they just liked the Woody Allen film and were completely unaware of his existence. Still, lawyers are involved, since the original D-Rose spent thousands of euros to protect his name and doesn’t want it attached to a place that’s serving “American” specialties like gooseberry-slathered pork ribs.
p.s. is Le Fooding writing about just anything these days? http://www.lefooding.com/restaurant/restaurant-danny-rose-paris.html
Photos from the opening party for Spring Boutique, January 2010
Spring Boutique, the little shop run by Spring Restaurant, has effectively closed. The space at 52 rue de l’Arbre Sec opened in January 2010 and took various forms throughout its three years of existence: a wine shop featuring regular tastings, a wine club with bottle delivery service, a high-end epicerie, a lunch spot serving a bouillon that many of our readers still crave, and a place for the community gatherings, including the launch party for Paris by Mouth in 2010.
Chef/owner Daniel Rose sent an email today with the following explanation:
“In 2013 we hope to concentrate all our efforts on the restaurant. After some renovations, expect something new at the boutique space. We have always used it as a place to play and this trend will continue. As usual, we have more ideas than time to implement them! It is a Spring tradition. New arrival Johnathan Bauer-Ronneret (Best Young sommelier of France 2009) and his team, are happy to welcome you and advise you on the same selection of great wines at the restaurant.
Nearly all of our wines are available for take away at 50% off the restaurant list price, but it is as a service to customers. If they like something that they may want to bring home with them we can accommodate a bottle or two depending availability.”
Staffing challenges may be partially to blame for the closure of Spring Boutique. Two long-time employees departed in the second half of 2012 (one to open his own wine export business, the other to make wine in the Loire Valley), then their replacement left abruptly in December. As a result, the Boutique was obliged to close just before the (potential) holiday rush. It never reopened.
Given my affection for their wine selections, I think it’s great that Spring will continue to let customers purchase the bottles they’ve enjoyed at the restaurant. I wish them luck in whatever they decide to do with that space and hope to return there to play again soon.
Photos from the Paris by Mouth launch party at Spring Boutique in June 2010
They’re back! The lobster party at Spring Restaurant has become a summer tradition, and it’s happening again today through Saturday.
Regular lunch and dinner service will be suspended during these last three days before the restaurant closes for summer holiday (August 5-22), and the kitchen will instead be rolling out hundreds of lobster sandwiches.
They’ll be served from noon to 8pm on August 2-4, and priced at 26€ a piece, along with goose fat fries for 8€.
Before launching at 5:00 this morning, the PbM crew celebrated the new website with a few hundred glasses at Spring Boutique.
All photos by Nicolas Calcott
The crowd at Spring Boutique spills out onto the sidewalk
Contributing Advisor Phyllis Flick
Bruno Verjus, chasing the good stuff.