Le Chateaubriand boasts food by Inaki Aizpitarte, a smooth marble design by Rem Koolhaas, and a great selection of affordable vins naturels.
- Alexander Lobrano struggles to find something nice to say about Camélia, the ‘second’ table of the just opened Mandarin Oriental hotel. An “earthy, old-fashioned and profoundly Gallic” beef terrine is impeccable, but everything else merits either faint praise or disdain. He leaves with a bill of €200 and questions about what a ‘second’ restaurant in a luxury hotel should really be. [Hungry for Paris]
- Aaron Ayscough takes a passing swipe at the recent wave of articles about Mexican restaurants in Paris, then visits Itacate - one of the more passable joints – to review their vino Mexicano. The L.A. Cetto 2009 Chenin tastes like old nothing – “no acid, flimsy inexpressive fruit, just a generalised wine-ishness. But this sort of thing is less a wine than a Jarritos-like product, just meant to add atmosphere.” [Not Drinking Poison in Paris]
Paris Results
- Le Chateaubriand - #9 in 2011, up from #11 in 2010, #40 in 2009
- L’Astrance - #13 in 2011, #16 in 2010, #11 in 2009, #11 in 2008
- L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon #14 in 2011, #29 in 2010, #18 in 2009, #14 in 2008
- Pierre Gagnaire – #16 in 2011, down from #13 in 2010, #9 in 2009 #3 in 2008
- L’Arpège – #19 in 2011, not ranked in 2010 or 2009, #46 in 2008
- Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée – #45 in 2011, down from #41 in 2010, not ranked in 2009, #18 in 2008
Here’s the situation: You can only reserve for the first seating at Le Chateaubriand. After that, you’ll have to wait in line with everyone else for a stab at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s unique (that’s putting it mildly), 50€ menu, a parade of forgotten vegetables, fish, and meat (some raw, some cooked) that landed the restaurant on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list last year.
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- La Tache 1962 on Our Guide to Paris: BigarradeNot in 2012, but I promised to do so when they have the Coutume coffee. Which they will be tasting monday I...
- Meg on Our Guide to Paris: BigarradeYou make a compelling case, my dear Tache. Have you been back to l'Astrance lately? It's been ages since I read anything...
- Meg from Paris by Mouth on Restaurant Radar: Paris food news & reviewsDear GP, Thanks for taking the time to respond, and I will gladly accept your word when you tell us that you...
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- Steve Zimmerman on Our Guide to Paris: A la Biche au BoisI'm commenting on my own comment. We returned to Paris in Sept. 2011, dined at Biche twice. Still the same wonderful food...
A Year in the Mouth
