Tag Archives: Iñaki Aizpitarte

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Le Cave

A wine shop from the restaurant Le Chateaubriand, driven by the passion of sommelier Sébastien Chatillon for natural, rare and foreign wines.

Practical information

Address: 129 avenue Parmentier, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (line 11)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday from 2-10pm. Closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 48 74 65 38
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Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2014) “Food is sold to-go, but no food is available for consumption on premises… Yet a rotating cast of the shop’s exotic, borderline faddish wines are available by the glass… The wines actually displayed on Le Cave’s walls are precisely the same ones available at, say… any hip Paris restaurant with a young, curious somm who is nonetheless handcuffed by the limited amount of good non-French natural wines that make it into France.”

Blouin ArtInfo (2013) “On pourra ici découvrir toute une gastronomie autant qu’une poésie de noms de lieux (Céphalonie, Santorin, Conca de Barbera, Swartland, Géorgie…), de noms de cépages (aleatico, ribolla gialla, mavrotragano, rkatsiteli, zacinjak), ainsi que des histoires fantastiques de popes qui font des vins depuis 1000 ans, de soleras de saké, de vinification en amphore ou de vins blancs faits comme des rouges.”

Photo via Le Cave’s Facebook page

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Le Chateaubriand by Meg Zimbeck

Le Chateaubriand

You can only reserve for the first seating at Le Chateaubriand. After that, you’ll have to wait in line with everyone else for a stab at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s unique menu, a parade of forgotten vegetables, fish, and meat (some raw, some cooked) that landed the restaurant on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list last year.

Practical information

Address: 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Dinner only, Closed Sunday, Closed Monday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 43 57 45 95
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Inaki Aizpitarte, basque bondissant, autodidacte malicieux…continue d’avancer à sa manière ludique et précise…il faut être au moins une fois. Et où le plaisir est dans l’assiette.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “The colors are odd and bold and there’s something painterly about the presentation…There’s a lightness to this food that I appreciate, particularly in summer.  And I like the way the ingredients retain their integrity…the end result can be oddly austere and occasionally jarring.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “…the dish names are deceptively simple.  For example, ‘tranche de boeuf, aubergine, faiselle’…Like most of Iñaki’s creations, it was a surprising combination of elements that I would never dream of putting together…”

Food Snob (2009) “This modern, cosmopolitan theme is in stark contrast to the very restaurant wherein it resides: contemporary cooking in a classic bistro; colourful food within sombre walls…”

Food & Wine (2009) “…radical reconstructions of classic French dishes (foie gras served in miso soup)—all marvelously incongruous…”

Le Fooding “…des plats qui sont meilleurs que d’autres, des jours où Iñaki excelle, d’autres où le plat n’a pas collé au Basque, et du monde, beaucoup de monde.  Nous, on adore!”

François Simon (2007) “…une table encensée par la presse…”

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Le Dauphin by Meg Zimbeck

Le Dauphin

This wine bar next door to (and run by) Le Chateaubriand boasts food by Inaki Aizpitarte, a smooth marble design by Rem Koolhaas and Clement Blanchet, and a great selection of affordable vins naturels.

Practical information

Address: 131 avenue Parmentier, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 55 28 78 88
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

François Simon (2012) “C’est très ludique, allusif. Parfois, on voudrait que le morceau dure plus longtemps. Mais l’air du temps se veut ainsi : concis, net, sans ambages. Allusif. Il y eut dans cette soirée multitude de petits éclairs.”

John Talbott (2011) “One day I adore IA’s cooking and the next time I don’t ‘get it.’  Colette says she’s had it.  Maybe I have too.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “La précision des assaisonnements instille les mets de puissantes vagues jouissives. Soupe de champignons de Paris dressée comme un cobra. Mordant des champignons/condiments au vinaigre, de l’anguille fumée et de la poudre de trompettes de la mort.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Bref, voilà de la cuisine vive, drôle, amusante, intuitive, mi-moderne, mi-ménagère, qui craque et croque, se révélant simplement savoureuse, légère, sapide, bien faite, sans bavure d’aucune sorte…”

François-Regis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “Au moins deux choses merveilleuses à la carte du Dauphin…Le risotto à l’encre de seiche électrisé par un zeste de cédrat…[et] Un boulgour « massé » dans un pesto roquette-cresson, chair de crabe et pointes de crème au raifort…”

Barbra Austin for Girls’ Guide to Paris (2011) “…in the evenings the menu is built for grazing, with an ever-changing roster of small plates, some simple (ham, chorizo), some less so. There was a brandade that had been deconstructed into a brothy concoction, light, loose and delicious. A bowl of boeuf bourguignon was topped with crisp carrots and curvy crosnes…”

The Paris Notebook (2011) “…even when Aizpitarte misses, I like what he’s trying to do…turning out his own style of inventive cooking, using exceptional ingredients, at affordable prices.  In doing so, he makes avant-guard cooking, a little more accessible to all.

Chrisoscope (2010) “Ce marbre blanc me fait penser aux WC des invités chez mes parents au Liban (appartement achevé fin 1996).”

Aaron Ayscough (2010) “…there are simply no disappointing glass pours…the menu is the work of a real overachiever…the other night when I dropped by with my friend F, we shared a plate of pousse-pieds, or goose barnacles…”

Meg Zimbeck for BlackBook (2010) “…Put a bar in the middle and serve the most pedigreed natural wines at ridiculously low prices – €5 per glass. Line the counter with pretty Belleville girls and dangle long strips of Iberian ham in front of their noses. Put some foam on the sea scallops with salsify, some blood sausage on the oyster tapioca. Call it the most hyped (and rightly so) wine bar in Paris.”

Food Intelligence (2010) “Une boite de marbre de Carrare, un bar boisé et vernis comme un Riva, une mise en abîme, quelques éléments probant à découvrir à partir de la fin novembre au Dauphin dans un décor signé Rem Koolhaas et Clément Blanchet.”

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CaveChateaubriand

Chateaubriand to open a wine shop

CaveChateaubriand Following in the footsteps of Septime, and (once-upon a time) Spring, the hard-to-book Paris restaurant Le Chateaubriand has acquired a space for an eventual wine shop between the restaurant and its sister wine bar Le Dauphin. Word on the street is that it will focus on interesting imports.

No details yet on when the shop will open, or whether they’ll sell to-go bottles for the hordes lined up on the sidewalk waiting to get into Le Chateaubriand. We’ll keep you posted…

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Feed The Feed: send us your tips at parisbymouth@gmail.com

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#9 Le Chateaubriand by Meg Zimbeck

Paris Rankings Among the World’s 50 Best Restos

The 2011 Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards

Whether you love them, hate them, or (like Ferran Adrià) just think they need a little reform, the annual rankings were revealed tonight in London. We were nerdy enough to watch the live streaming event in our pyjamas and to post the play-by-play on our Facebook page. Rene Redzepi’s restaurant Noma retained the #1 spot, followed by two Spanish restaurants, El Celler De Can Roca and Mugaritz. The highest ranked Paris restaurant was Le Chateaubriand, which broke the the top ten for the first time this year.

Paris Results

Among the Paris rankings, there are some very different stories. Le Chateaubriand, which broke the top ten for the first time this year (and is the only French restaurant to do so) has been rising dramatically since its entry in 2009. Pierre Gagnaire, on the other hand, has steadily slipping ever since its highest point at #3 in 2008. L’Astrance, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and L’Arpège are all on a comeback kick, while Alain Ducasse has been tumbling consistently down in the rankings. Anne-Sophie Pic was named as the World’s Best Female Chef, but her restaurant (Maison Pic, Valence) didn’t make the top 50. Also ranked in the second tier was Le Meurice, squeaking in at #97.

So how do we explain the fact that Le Chateaubriand and L’Arpège are rising while Ducasse and Gagnaire are slipping? And what about all those three-star Michelin chefs (Frechon, Alleno, Savoy) who didn’t make the cut? What does it mean that David Chang’s noodle bar outranks the founder of the Collège Culinaire de France?

Full Results

  1. Noma, Denmark
  2. El Celler de Can Roca, Spain
  3. Mugaritz, Spain
  4. Osteria Francescana, Italy
  5. The Fat Duck, UK
  6. Alinea, USA
  7. D.O.M, Brazil
  8. Arzak, Spain
  9. Le Chateaubriand, France
  10. Per Se, USA
  11. Daniel, USA
  12. Les Creations de Narisawa, Japan
  13. L’Astrance, France
  14. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, France
  15. Hof van Cleve, Belgium
  16. Pierre Gagnaire, France
  17. Oud Sluis, Netherlands
  18. Le Bernardin, USA
  19. L’Arpege, France
  20. Nihonryori RyuGin, Japan
  21. Vendome, Germany
  22. Steirereck, Austria
  23. Schloss Schauenstein, Switzerland
  24. Eleven Madison Park, USA (second highest climber)
  25. Aqua, Germany
  26. Quay, Australia
  27. Iggy’s, Singapore
  28. Combal Zero, Italy
  29. Martin Berasategui, Spain
  30. Bras, France
  31. Biko, Mexico
  32. Le Calandre, Italy
  33. Cracco, Italy
  34. The Ledbury, UK (highest new entry)
  35. Chez Dominique, Finland
  36. Le Quartier Francais, South Africa
  37. Amber, China
  38. Dal Pescatore, Italy
  39. Il Canto, Italy
  40. Momofuku Ssam Bar, USA
  41. St John, UK
  42. Astrid Y Gaston, Peru
  43. Hibiscus, UK
  44. Maison Troisgros, France
  45. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee, France
  46. De Librije, Netherlands
  47. Restaurant de l’Hotel de Ville, Switzerland
  48. Varvary, Russia
  49. Pujol, Mexico
  50. Asador Etxebarri, Spain

 

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