Tag Archives: Yannick Alleno

Yannick Alleno at Ledoyen

Ledoyen

This historic three-star restaurant is perched in a pavilion just off the Champs-Elysées and has been a dining destination since the French Revolution. Long-time chef Christian Le Squer handed the reigns to Yannick Alleno in July 2014, and Alleno has promised a renewed focus on what he considers to be the great strength of French cuisine – sauces. He is also, albeit more quietly than his rival Alain Ducasse, putting vegetables and peasant ingredients in the spotlight. Our meal featured the modest mackerel and butternut squash in starring roles, presented with both precision and imagination. A lunchtime tasting menu is priced at 128€ , and a ten course tasting menu at either lunch or dinner is 295€. The more I think about it, the more I want to return to see what happens next.

Meg Zimbeck, September 2014

Practical information

Address: 1 avenue Dutuit, 75008
Nearest transport: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau (1, 13)
Hours: Closed Saturday, Sunday, and Monday lunch
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 53 05 10 00
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

Reviews with Yannick Alleno as chef :

Le Figaro (2014) “Si, entre l’institution des Champs-Élysées et le chef pressé, on pouvait craindre le mariage hasardeux de la carpe et du lapin, on découvre sur place un cuisinier totalement investi derrière ses fourneaux. Un nouvel Alléno ?”

Atabula (2014) “La cuisine de Yannick Alléno et de son équipe s’inscrit dans une tradition française dont il revendique l’héritage et la puissance. Surtout, il sait se jouer du temps, défiant les contraintes de la gastronomie d’aujourd’hui et puisant dans la richesse du patrimoine de la grande cuisine française un registre d’une très grande modernité. ”

Ruth Reichl (2014) “This chef is using classic techniques in wildly inventive ways… The food is intriguing and exciting, but three star dining is about much more than food.  It’s a performance, and Ledoyen doesn’t let you down.  The ambiance is so luxurious, the staff so convincing that by the time you leave you expect to find a coach and four waiting to whisk you home.”

Reviews with Christian Le Squer as chef:

Food Snob (2009) “Dishes are sophisticated, satisfying and crafted to showcase and magnify the finest ingredients and their innate flavours. The kitchen is also generous with guests receiving exquisite and ample amuses, petit fours and mignardises – which are also when the chef likes to have a little fun.”

Julot (2009) “I ordered the 88€ prix-fixe lunch menu. But the real good news is that this lunch menu is nothing less than your regular Ledoyen food in terms of the care and the quality of the ingredients… when it comes to trying to offer you the best food there is, this place has little competition that I know of.”

Julot (2008) “Ledoyen has top notch ingredients…This was exemplified by what I considered the highlight of a very good meal, the mise en bouche of first (in the season) green vegetables…Those peas in particular, so incredibly fresh, so crunchy, so full of spring flavours, demonstrate what truly exceptional ingredients cooked with infinite precision and care can be.”

 

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Ledoyen under Alleno

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Le Meurice Interior

Le Meurice

This Michelin 3-star was helmed by Yannick Alleno until he moved on in 2013 after opening his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien. Alain Ducasse took the reigns in September 2013.

Practical information

Address: 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001
Nearest transport: Tuileries (1)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 44 58 10 55
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website

Reviews of interest

Reviews from meals with Alain Ducasse as chef

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Sacrée asperge!”

David Lebovitz (2013) “I’m gonna call it and say that the first course was the best thing I ate in 2013. Out came an iron pot with a lid, which was set down between us along with two long forks and little bowls of sorrel mayonnaise. When they lifted the lid, we were presented with a simple tumble of vegetables cooked over a concave demi-circle of coarse, gray salt. Each vegetable was au nature, but each one was the most marvelously flavored vegetable I ever tasted in the last ten years.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Voilà une table de hauteur jamais hautaine, où l’on s’accorde l’art de se ruiner heureux. Surtout le meilleur Ducasse depuis longtemps!”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Ultimately, this was a superb and very daring meal…simple and wholesome.”

Camille Labro (2013) “Alors oui, les prix sont astronomiques, et je préfèrerais toujours une assiette bonne franquette dans un bistro où l’on peut parler fort et rigoler de bon cœur. Mais Ducasse et ses équipes savent créer des moments gastronomiques de haute volée, qui étonnent et détonnent, prouvant que l’on peut cuisiner grand sans rien dénaturer, et que le luxe réside souvent dans les goûts simples et une belle botte de navets.”

Reviews from meals with Yannick Alleno as chef

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Bref, voilà une maison au mieux de son style, à redécouvrir le midi pour ce menu fortiche qui exalte les saveurs du terroir parisien avec une confondante habileté.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Almost too beautiful to eat…”

François Simon (2010) “L’assiette de Yannick Alleno était dans ce genre de magie poétique…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “… five days after left the table at Le Meurice, I am still savoring that exquisite spring lunch.”

Food Snob (2009) “…Everything was cooked flawlessly, ingredients were excellent, presentation appealed, but I was just not overwhelmed by deliciousness.”

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Terroir Parisien Palais Brongniart Yannick Alleno Paris restaurant  sweetbread sausage

Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brongniart

This new location of Yannick Alleno’s popular bistro is one of our favorite new openings of 2013, featuring pedigreed local ingredients and updated classic recipes from the region around Paris. This location at the Bourse boasts a rillettes bar sells terrines and pâtés to go.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 28 place de la Bourse, 75002
Nearest transport: Bourse (3)
Hours: Closed Sundays; open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 83 92 20 30
E-mail: reservation-bourse@terroirparisien.fr
Style of cuisine: Classic French, small plates & tapas
Website

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “Vous l’aurez compris, dans ce quartier en quête d’adresses « affaire », rodées, sérieuses et efficaces, Terroir Parisien fait le plein.”

Philippe Toinard for A Nous Paris (2014) “Dommage, après le Terroir parisien de la Maison de la Mutualité, rive gauche, la rive droite avait l’occasion de s’encanailler autour des recettes franciliennes qu’Alléno, le local de l’étape, connaît sur le bout de la langue…Tout cela est bien pensé, mais encore faut-il que ce soit rodé.”
Le Monde (2014) “Pour le moment, il s’est pris d’amour pour la charcuterie qui trône en majesté au bar à rillettes et à la carte. De 7 à 10 €, avec un sac “apéro” de 4 à 24 €. Pâté en croûte rustique ou de volaille de Houdan, terrines, rillettes de porc au café, de pintade, de crabe, saucisson à l’ail, jambon blanc coupé à la Berkel, persillé de jambon ou boudin noir : c’est l’oeuvre de Jean-Michel Bannwart, meilleur ouvrier de France charcutier 1996.”

David Lebovitz (2013) “…had the scallops on a bed of beet “risotto” for my main course. The rich, inky flavor of the mound of creamy beets didn’t really marry with the scallops and I couldn’t quite wrap my head around the combination.”

Paris Bouge (2013) “Le chef s’attaque à ce qui plaît le plus aux « titis parisiens » : charcuteries, pâtés en croute, terrines, jambons persillés ou boudin noir, tout est préparé intra-muros dans son laboratoire. Autre nouveauté, le « rillette bar » qui propose dès 18h30 des compositions aux arômes singuliers comme le cabillaud blanc aux haricots blancs, le crabe au cresson de Méréville, ou le cochon au café fort.”

John Talbott (2013) “How Alleno does both classic and innovative at the same time is head-snapping.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “À l’arrivée, une chic brasserie au confort un peu raide et sa cuisine ouverte comme écran, qui trotte à disposer un appétit carré sous le concept, franchement bien exécuté, d’une saine efficacité mais en manque de climat…Du coup, en attendant que l’esprit s’en mêle, du moins le public, on a un peu le sentiment d’une adresse média-marketée, d’une gastronomie en QCM. Un bon baiser de Paris, certes, mais envoyé par e-mail.”

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ledoyen

Yannick Alleno Will Head to Ledoyen

Ledoyen, one of the oldest restaurants in the city, is poised for a major revamp this summer. Le Figaro reports that a year and half after leaving Le Meurice, Yannick Alleno is headed back to fine dining and will take over the triple Michelin starred kitchen at the legendary Ledoyen in August. He already has a full plate with the recently opened restaurant housed in the Molitor swimming pool-turned-hotel and two Terroir Parisiens.

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speedo only

Yannick Alleno to Cook in Swimming Pool

Well, not exactly… but the Michelin starred chef will moving in when the Molitor swimming pool reopens next Spring as a splashy (sorry) new hotel.

The Art Deco landmark near the Bois de Boulogne will be transformed into a hotel with all 124 rooms (hopefully not the size of changing cabins) overlooking the pool. There will be a restaurant – this is where Alleno comes in – and a rooftop bar overlooking the city.

It is unclear whether, as with all Paris pools, guests will be required to wear a swim cap and (for men) a Speedo.

Molitor hotel restaurant Alleno Paris

Read more from the City of Paris – Piscine Molitor: le “Paquebot blanc” bientôt remis à flots

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Alain Ducasse takes on Le Meurice

Alain Ducasse adds Le Meurice to his empire

Alain Ducasse takes on Le Meurice

Seven months after Yannick Alleno announced his departure from Le Meurice, the three-star restaurant has announced that rival chef Alain Ducasse will be taking over its kitchen in September. This transition will take place just before Ducasse’s Plaza Athenée closes in October for seven months of renovations.

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Youpi et Voila by Phyllis Flick

The latest and greatest Paris openings

 

2012 has already been a busy year on the Paris restaurant scene. Here’s a selection of noteworthy newcomers. Click on the restaurant name for practical details and more reviews.

Youpi et Voilà Fans of Septime and Saturne will probably like Patrice Gelbart’s seasonal cooking, characterized by “generous amounts of fresh herbs and plants with a mix of textures and flavors,” says Phyllis Flick.  “There are no heavy sauces, and little fat. Just clean bright flavors.”

Au Conservatoire Cédric Casanova has opened a Sicilian épicerie next to his La Tête Dans Les Olives, with a single table d’hôte for 5-8 people that is probably already booked solid for the next ten years. The “picnic” runs 30€/person and features products from the shop, which you will no doubt want to purchase after the meal.

Big Fernand The burgers here are well-seared and juicy, the fries crisp, the staff look like they’re starring in a hipster production of Newsies. Food truck? What food truck?

Terroir Parisien Yannick Alleno of Le Meurice brings his locavore act to the Left Bank at this airy, open-every-day spot, resuscitating the Parisian repertoire with Ile de France ingredients. Dine in on frisée salad, onion soup, and Verot charcuterie, or get a classic sandwich jambon et beurre to go.

Arola Early reviews are mixed for this Spanish import, a small-plates set up from Michelin-star collector Sergi Arola, housed in the new W Hotel. Alexander Lobrano says, “the Pica Pica format [Arola's term for small plates] is fun when you’re on a large sunny terrace with the Mediterranean in the distance but is distinctly less satisfying in a low-ceilinged dining room with handsome formal 19th century French moldings.” Claro que si.

Semilla There’s a M.O.F in the (flameless) open kitchen at this new address from everyone’s favorite Anglo restaurateurs Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré, of Fish, Cosi, and wine shop La Dernière Goutte. Patricia Wells says it’s “carefully designed for the way we want to eat today…a nice mix of little and large tastes for vegetarians, meat eaters, lovers of the classics as well as the adventurous…”

La Table d’Aki Akihiro Horikoshi — a L’Ambroisie vet — is both chef and waiter at his new, intimate 16-seater in the 7th, where he’s cooking a modern, refined menu that Bruno Verjus declares “the best value for the money in the world.” THE WORLD.

 

 

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