Aux Lyonnais is a “bouchon” from Alain Ducasse that recently got a welcome reboot with the arrival of chef Marie-Victorine Manoa (see update below), who is putting out dishes that are lighter, brighter, and more petite than anything you’d find in Lyon. Take her version of a quenelle de brochet – the pike dumpling with crayfish sauce that’s a staple of bouchon cuisine. It’s listed on the menu as Hommage à la mère Brigousse – le têton de Vénus, sauce Nantua. The dish we had at Aux Lyonnais in 2010 was stodgy and rich without any brightness (more authentic, less delicious). Manoa’s spin in 2022 is light and airy with some beautifully bitter broccoli rabe to balance the concentrated sauce. It’s delicious food in a beautiful room, and it’s open for lunch on Sunday.
2023 update: Chef Marie-Victorine Manoa left Aux Lyonnais during the summer of 2023 to take over the kitchen at Le Chalet des Îles Daumesnil. We have not been back to try it under the new chef Victoria Boller.
AUX LYONNAIS
32 Rue Saint-Marc, 75002 Paris
Open Wednesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Open Sunday for lunch only
Reservations online or at +33 1 42 96 65 04
OUR PHOTOS OF AUX LYONNAIS
Most recent visit
Earlier visits
IN OTHER WORDS
L’Express (2013) “Un boudin à la lyonnaise, façon tranche épaisse snackée. Pas mal, à la fois légèrement croustillant et fondant à coeur, bien relevé… je n’ai rarement mangé des patates frites aussi desséchées et racornies. De deux choses l’une: soit il s’est passé une bonne semaine entre les deux bains de friture soit la pauvre pomme de terre s’est coltiné cinq bains d’affilée!”
Table à Découvert (2009) “… un foie de veau servi rosé (comme on m’a demandé de le préciser), la peau résiste un peu sous le couteau pour faire découvrir un cœur fondant… et ces pommes de terre taillées en frites, enveloppe croustillante, intérieur fondant… Je me régale…”
Simon Says (2008) “C’est certain, aux Lyonnais d’Alain Ducasse, toute roule impeccablement…”
The New York Times (2005) “Here, the gutsy food is prepared with great attention, and the service is better than average. (You have to figure that Mr. Ducasse’s staff is reasonably well trained.) I’ve eaten my way through the menu and have yet to find a nondessert dish that I didn’t adore.”
Chocolate & Zucchini (2004) “I set my heart on it because I know Maxence is partial to authentic historical settings, and has a weakness for charcuterie and down-to-earth popular dishes : he is known to eat pied de porc, oreille de cochon or croustillant de tête de veau without batting an eyelash, so I thought Aux Lyonnais would cater to this penchant.”
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