Ellsworth currently holds the #3 spot in our list of favorite restaurants for small sharable plates.
Following their success with Verjus, where the more elaborate formula of dégustation + wine pairings has drawn a loyal following of happy locals and visiting celebrities, Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian have decided to open something more casual. Let’s call it “serious casual” because at Ellsworth (named for Perkins’ grandfather), foods that you might see at a county fair are elevated through careful sourcing and a sincere spirit of DIY. The fried chicken from Verjus Bar à Vins has moved over to Ellsworth, leaving the former as more of a place for drinks and snacks before or after dinner at Verjus.
Ellsworth is more than an expansion of the wine bar, however. They’re open here for both lunch and dinner and accept both walk-ins and online reservations. The extra space provided by the Ellsworth kitchen means that the team is now able to source and break down whole animals for both restaurants, plus make their own bread, yogurt, ricotta, sausage, and other manifestations of the nose-to-tail and homemade ethic that one also sees at Au Passage. The kitchen is committed to a vegetable-driven (if not vegetarian) menu that changes with the seasons, and to making as much as possible in-house. The wine list, like at Verjus, runs toward small producers and spans both conventional and natural wines (Antoine Arena’s VdF Bianco Gentile was a delightful part of a recent meal).
Note: Ellsworth is no longer serving brunch on Sundays.
Address: 34 rue de Richelieu, 75001
Nearest transport: Pyramides (7,14)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner. Now closed Sunday & Monday.
Telephone: +33 1 42 60 59 66
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Ellsworth in photos
Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth
What people are saying
Eater (2017) ranks Ellsworth among their 38 Essential Paris Restaurants, especially when you haven’t planned in advance. “You can sit at the bar and tuck into some great nibbles without the hassle of making a reservation. Go early and don’t miss the buttermilk fried chicken; the quality of French fowl hits this comfort-food classic out of the park.”
David Lebovitz (2017) includes this among his Favorite Restaurants in Paris, calling Ellsworth “excellent contemporary cooking with well-sourced and market-based ingredients. From the team that created the popular Verjus restaurant, reserve in advance at this popular restaurant. The casual, friendly vibe makes it a great place for lunch or dinner.”
The Infatuation (2016) says “It’s not exactly modern Parisian cooking like you might expect from some of the other hot spots in town, but instead has a very vegetable heavy menu that also happens to feature an incredible fried chicken. Get it on your Paris Hit list.”
TimeOut (2015) loves “the long narrow space, clean but cool décor, short enticing menu and zippy soundtrack” and says “we swooned for earthy chargrilled broccoli with anchovy butter and parmesan, for gorgeous nuggets of chicken fried in fermented milk, and for delicate sea bream ceviche with nectarines, coriander and almonds – the whole enhanced by a bold hand with the chilli.”
Table à Découvert (2015) “Du coup, je ne peux pas ne pas prendre de dessert, surtout qu’il y en a un qui me plaît plus que tout dans son intitulé : glace au malt, sorbet au chocolat, espuma de café, biscuit au lait vanillé. Je crois que je pourrais retourner chez Ellsworth dans les prochaines heures juste pour ce dessert… Chocolat noir, malt, café, les saveurs sont en osmose et avec ces éclats de biscuit très beurré et un peu salé qui là aussi croustille énormément, c’est terrible.”
Patricia Wells (2015) advises that “the evening menu, which offers nearly a dozen substantive little tastes, a cheese selection and two desserts to choose from, is perfect for a quick snack or a multi-course feast, depending upon one’s appetite of the moment. The food is generally full of bright, vibrant flavors, well-seasoned (although at times a little heavy handed with the salt), and cleverly conceived, with no theme that screams ‘you’ve seen this all before too many times.'”
Lost in Cheeseland (2015) “Nouveau Americana fare and the same fine provenance one has come to expect and appreciate at Verjus. Beautiful produce, high quality fish and meats, homemade Sourdough bread, homemade butter, homemade ricotta, yogurt and sausage and an accommodating kitchen for shareable small plates.”
Alexander Lobrano (2015) calls Ellsworth “a puckish up-market take on a great North American bar-food dish and the best fried chicken in Paris… Great wine list, a good looking room, fair prices, and a fun crowd. Don’t miss this one.”
Le Figaro (2015) “En cuisine, en salle et côté cave, un jeune trio venu d’ici et d’ailleurs active ce corridor de charme dans l’élan des nouveaux codes de goût et d’époque: vins contemporains, recettes de fine gamberge, assiettes à partager.”
The New York Times (2015) says that in contrast to the tasting menu at Verjus, “Ellsworth proposes a simple fixed menu for lunch (two courses for just 18 euros) and a selection of small plates for dinner. ‘We found that people don’t want to sit down to a tasting menu every single week and we wanted to attract more regulars, so we tried for something more approachable,’ Perkins says.”
Le Fooding (2015) “Ellsworth accueille une clientèle anglo-saxonne acquise à sa cause autour de tables marbrées avec une cuisine franco-américaine joliment dépeignée par Hannah, jeune cheffe canadienne. A la carte: poulet frit au lait ribot comme dans le Kentucky, servi avec du chou chinois pimenté; boulettes de canard parfumées à la coriandre, accompagnées de carottes croquantes; peau de poulet frite travaillée en nacho, nappé de tomme de Savoie fondue et de crème pimentée; salade de choux de Bruxelles crus, avec pointes de menthe et épeautre; ceviche de bar de ligne au maïs soufflé, sur fond de jus d’agrumes ; beignets de pomme avec dulce de leche revisité au sel de Maldon…”