Tag Archives: 75011

Fulgurances L’Adresse

French food magazine Fulgurances opened L’Adresse in 2015 as a culinary incubator featuring a rotating cast of guest chefs. In 2016, we were blown away by the food of Israeli chef Tamir Nahmias. More recently, we returned for Mariana Villegas, a young Mexican chef who previously passed through Cosme and Union Square Café in New York. Her cooking is bright and inventive. Here's an update on what's happening at Fulgurances.

>> Read More

La Buvette

La Buvette, opened in 2013, is perhaps the most stylish and intimate wine bar of its generation in Paris. Its Lilliputian confines are the size of the average e-cigarette shop, and yet manage to contain four small tables, a thin zinc bar, a prep kitchen, and in the rear, an authoritative-looking wine fridge. Scrawled on a wall-mounted mirror is the menu: a rotating array of highbrow nibbles, ranging from orange-zested white broad beans in olive oil to thick-cut nubs of andouille au lard, or intestine sausage laced with lardo.  >> Read More

Le 6 Paul Bert

Le 6 Paul Bert had a brief closure followed by several different chefs and menu makeovers. We’re not sure what’s going on over there right now, but will update this description after another visit. Here’s what we wrote about the first incarnation: >> Read More

Martin

Former Au Passage bartender Löic Martin opened his eponymous bar-restaurant in late 2014 in the shell of a former PMU betting parlor, placing his money on sincere small-plates, a populist booze program, and a boldly central location. Over the course of a few years and a few conceptual tweaks, Martin the bar-restaurant has blossomed into a booming shabby-chic nightspot, the social anchor of the haute-Marais, one of the few wide terraces in Paris offering truly excellent cuisine at accessible prices.  >> Read More

Septime

Septime currently holds the #1 ranking in our list of our favorite Tasting Menus under 100€. First, the bad news: you’re probably not going to get into Septime. Not unless you’re willing to call exactly three weeks before your desired reservation, and probably not even then. I hesitated in keeping Septime at #1 because of this difficulty, and also because my visits in 2015-2016 were fine but not great. However, a return visit in 2017 has left no doubt in my mind that Septime is still the best contemporary tasting menu in Paris. In particular, a dish of lobster with earthy boudin noir and tart wild strawberries provided a mind-bending and delicious jolt to every diner at our table. Beverage pairings are consistently brilliant, leaning heavily toward natural wines but without the ill-chosen funk we often encounter elsewhere. If you can’t get in, don’t despair – any of these other favorite tasting menus will treat you right. You can also visit Septime’s sister restaurant Clamato next door.

>> Read More

Le Villaret

Le Villaret is one of our favorite Classic Bistros in Paris. Sometimes in life we chase after the ones who play hard-to-get and we ignore the nice, stable options who just want to treat us right. Le Villaret is the homely neighborhood bistro that I never appreciated until I stopped looking for love at Le Baratin and Le Repaire de Cartouche. Le Villaret boasts a wine list every bit as interesting, especially if you’re looking for a balanced mix of natural and conventional wines, and bottles are served without the side dish or distain that you’re likely to receive from those popular boys. Wine is definitely the attraction here, so decide first what you want to drink and then find something on the lengthy food menu to pair with your choice. On a recent visit, I pounced on a 2011 Chablis 1er Cru from Raveneau (80€) and enjoyed some lovely if not life-changing monkfish medallions in lobster sauce (30€). There’s also a three-course menu for only 35€, and plenty of moderately priced wines. For people who love wine and want to enjoy a special bottle (or four) and some classic bistro food, Le Villaret is currently one of most reliable options in town. >> Read More

Le Repaire de Cartouche | parisbymouth.com

Le Repaire de Cartouche

Le Repaire de Cartouche Restaurant in Paris | Paris By MouthThis simple bistro has for years been a favorite among wine lovers, who arrive hoping to plumb the depths of Rodolphe Paquin’s cellar. Whether you taste something from the carte, or persuade Paquin to share an off-list treasure from his cave, wine is undoubtedly the highlight of any experience here. Paquin’s terrines are also extraordinary. He’s written a book about the subject and sells them whole in ceramic crocks to go. In autumn and winter, this is the place to go for wild game. Everything else here is pretty average, except for the service, which is atrocious. Two different tables stormed out during my most recent visit. What saves the experience for some is the joyful welcome from Paquin, the affable host (some ladies might say too affable) who greats regulars like long lost friends. Since I’ve been coming for years, I get a squeeze and a smile but still suffer through the terrible service… no one is safe. Visitors to Paris who can’t cite a winemaker connection or who haven’t yet been introduced will most likely be ignored and wondering why we’ve included this on our site. We’ve included it to reclassify Le Repaire de Cartouche as a great place to sit at the bar without reservations, order wine with a slab of terrine, and wait for your table to open up at Au Passage. It’s still great fun as a wine bar, even if it can no longer deliver as a restaurant. >> Read More

Restaurant Le Chateaubriand in Paris

Le Chateaubriand

Le Chateaubriand currently holds the #4 ranking in our list of our favorite Tasting Menus under 100€You can only reserve for the first seating at Le Chateaubriand. After that, you’ll have to wait in line from 9pm for a stab at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s no-choice tasting menu, a parade of provocative flavor pairings that has landed the restaurant on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list for several years running. Whether you love or hate this restaurant may depend on your affinity for natural wine and improvisational cooking. We have had brilliant meals here, where every delicious dish taught us something new. We have been outraged, and we have been indifferent. You never quite know what to expect here, and that’s part of the fun. Just be sure to go with omnivorous friends who share that outlook. >> Read More

La Chocolaterie Cyril Lignac

Practical information

Address: 25 rue Chanzy, 75011
Nearest transport: Rue des Boulets (9), Charonne (9)
Hours: Open every day from 8am-7pm
Telephone: 01 55 87 21 40
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Paris Bouge (2016) “L’incroyable (inégalable même!) chocolat chaud aux notes biscuitées et pralinées, la tablette «grand cru» au lait et noisettes, l’entremet noisettes avec crème de noisettes, ganache gianduja nappé d’une couche chocolat/amande. Vous le sentez ce goût de l’enfance? Addictif, sucré et craquant, lacté et boisé, c’est l’obsession de Cyril Lignac.”

Table à Découvert (2016) “Sur place, j’ai pu déguster le chocolat chaud de la maison qui n’évoquait rien de ce que je connaissais… En fait, il s’agit d’un mélange de chocolats, dont un au lait aux accents biscuités. Pas trop épais et assez sucré, il nous fait bien entrer dans l’univers gustatif de cette chocolaterie qui me fait aussitôt penser à ma lecture enfant de Charlie et la Chocolaterie.”

Le Figaro (2016) “A découvrir aussi, cinq barres chocolatées (5€) au caramel biscuité lait ou noix de coco/framboise, revisitant le Twix, le Bounty ou le Snickers. Côté pâtisseries (entre 3 et 6€), un large éventail de tarte au chocolat, éclair, caraïbes, entremets noisettes, muffin, brownie, brioche tonka, roulé choco-orange, tigré chocolat, cookie choco-caramel ou encore macarons. Sans oublier la chocolatine! Un petit paradis pour Charlie.”

Atabula (2016) “La Chocolaterie de Cyril Lignac n’est pas qu’une boutique. Elle se veut surtout être une étape où les « chocoholics » prennent le temps de savourer leur ingrédient préféré. On peut y siroter un chocolat chaud tout en dévorant un muffin tout chocolat sur une grande table d’hôtes.”

Photo via La Chocolaterie Cyril Lignac’s Facebook page

>> Read More

Clown Bar in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Clown Bar

=&0=&The team from Saturne has taken over the historic bar near Cirque d’Hiver. The beautiful Belle Epoque space remains (tastefully) decorated with clowns, but the menu has been seriously revived by Sota Atsumi’s intriguing small plates. Wines are heavily natural, with good options by the glass as well as the bottle. Don’t expect to get a table without calling a couple of weeks in advance.

Practical information

Address: 114 rue Amelot, 75011
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 43 55 87 35
Website   Facebook

Clown Bar in photos

What people are saying

Eater (2017) Alexander Lobrano includes this in his roundup of 38 Essential Paris Restaurants, saying that “the menu changes according to the season and the chef’s inspiration, but you have to order anything with Banka trout and the veal sweetbreads, if they’re on the menu. One way or another, it’s consistently a stand-out showcase of the best casual contemporary French cooking in town.”

Eater (2016) Ryan Sutton calls this “the most thrilling restaurant in Paris” and recommends ordering the veal brain.” You won’t find anything more exciting, innovative, fun, or (literally) cerebral.”

Le Fooding (2015) says that “Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant Table) does double duty as a contortionist in the marionette-sized kitchen to the delight of curious diners. The evening of our visit: a striking meager ceviche with cilantro and bottarga; shredded tourteau crab with feta in a tomato gazpacho bath; foie gras with smoked eel and button mushrooms. And for game lovers, an incredible pigeon from Mesquer with smoked herbs and sautéed potatoes, or a juicy and rare duck and foie gras pithiviers sweetened by a date jam.”

TimeOut (2014) says “The short, seasonal menu doesn’t do descriptions, just lists ingredients in that contemporary style, so if you’re unsure or queasy about some of the more adventurous parts of French cuisine, get the staff to help you out. Another thing to note before ordering is that the portions – including the opening ‘snacks’ – are extremely generous.” They add that “Clown Bar isn’t a cheap and cheerful bistro, but it is something rather special – original cooking in a historic location from a powerhouse team – and it’s open on Sundays.”

The Financial Times (2014) says “this listed 1902 clown-themed wonder, with its ornate glass ceiling, painted wall tiles and original zinc bar, transports you to a different era… The staff are warm, welcoming and knowledgeable and the list is perfectly curated, including bottles specially created for the group such as a delicious pétillant naturel from Le Petit Domaine de Gimios.”

John Talbott (2014) calls this “A great resuscitation of a grand old lady.”

Alexander Lobrano (2014) says that the “turbot with razor-shell clams, white asparagus and rhubarb in salted butter was one of the most satisfying dishes I’ve had for a long time, since the product was impeccable and the constellation of tastes made sense on the palate but was pushed just off-center enough by the rhubarb to be unexpected.” >> Read More

capucine via fb | parisbymouth.com

Capucine

Practical information

Address: 159 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8), Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9am-10pm, Sunday 10am-10pm
Reservations: Walk-ins welcome, but book a day or two in advance for lunch or dinner
Telephone: 01 43 46 10 14
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Italian
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Nouvel Observateur (2016) “Son restaurant Capucine, ouvert l’été dernier, compte déjà parmi les meilleures tables italiennes de Paris. Stefania Melis est l’une des chefs de file d’une nouvelle génération de chefs transalpins.”

HiP Paris (2015) “The doors stay open all day, serving light dishes like a fresh tomato soup, carpaccio with arugula and parmesan, or ricotta and cherry tomato bruschetta. Stop by in the afternoon for a relaxed summer lunch or early in the eveningto savor Italian charcuterie and cheese plates with a glass of prosecco. For a little something sweet, don’t overlook the simple vanilla and apricot panna cotta. The café only offers smaller sharing plates and closes at 9pm, making it a good pick for an apéro before dinner”

Le Fooding (2015) “Where in Paris can you savor… a supremely fresh sea bream carpaccio with cherries, drizzled with Cédric Casanova’s Sicilian olive oil, and served with a glass of Filippi Soave? Bite into incomparable, perfectly seasoned polpette in a sauce made with real tomatoes, while sipping on an ethereal glass of Montepulciano Cirelli? Rediscover the vanilla flavor of an ingenuous panna cotta with chopped peaches?”

Le Figaro (2015) “Un lieu décontracté dans lequel on vient apprécier lasagnes, panino, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries.”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Sur une carte bien éclectique ne laissant aucun incontournable italien au dépourvu (si ce n’est la pizza!), on retrouve entre autres: panino, lasagnes, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries. Ce jour-là on opte pour les polpette al sugo, juteuses boulettes de viande et ricotta, à la sauce tomate gorgée de soleil, puis parsemées de parmesan, voilà une simplicité des plus resplendissantes.”

Time Out (2015) “Le Caffè dei Cioppi est mort, vive Capucine! Voilà un mal pour un bien. A la place du très regretté resto italien du faubourg Saint-Antoine, une délicieuse caffetteria à la mode transalpine a vu le jour, au mois de juillet.”

A Nous Paris (2015) “Même esprit italo-rustique, même précision. Soupe de tomate froide (6€) – épais et savoureux –, polpette al sugo ou boulettes de veau à la sauce tomate (15€) – frais -, panna cotta aux brugnons (6€) – soyeux. Les vins – gentillets – suivent, sans plomber la note, à l’instar du montepulciano d’abruzzo de Cirelli (4€), et le café (2,20€) ponctue en beauté cette dînette.”

Photo via Capucine’s Facebook page

>> Read More

Jones restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Jones

Practical information

Address: 43 rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 75011
Nearest transport: Voltaire (9)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday from 8:30am-12am
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 09 80 75 32 08
E-mail: jonescaferestaurant@gmail.com
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Small plates
Website   Facebook   Book Online

Reviews of interest

Paris Bouge (2016) “Seul changement à l’horizon: l’australien chef-star James Henry plie bagage et passe sa toque à Florent Ciccoli, qu’il côtoie déjà son époque Au Passage. Jones garde tout de son cachet légèrement rock’n’roll: le vin nature encanaille les tablées désinvoltes, la lumière tamisée fait subsister un certain mystère, l’ambiance sonore atteint une intensité inattendue, et l’assiette, elle, s’est assagie mais préserve tout son mordant.”

Time Out (2016) “On retrouve l’esprit de ce «bar à manger», avec des produits de saison dans des petites assiettes bien balancées à se partager. Il y a du bien et du (un peu) moins bien. Délicieuses ces courges butternut, rôties à point et saupoudrées de pecorino ou ce jambon de bœuf wagyu, fondant tendrement sur le palais, un peu décevants ces couteaux XXL soit deux couteaux accompagnés d’une micro-purée saupoudrée de pain grillé et de beurre noisette à 15€. Outch. ”

Jones in pictures

Jones restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Squash and stuffed squash blossoms

Jones restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Fried sardines with salsa verde

Jones restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Gazpacho with tuna, tomatoes and salicorne

Jones restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Veal tartare with pickled onions and pine nuts

Jones restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Jones interior

>> Read More

biondi dessert via FB | parisbymouth.com

Biondi

Practical information

Address: 118 rue Amelot, 75011
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 00 90 18
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Argentinean
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Paris Bouge (2016) “De la côte de bœuf à partager pour deux, ris de veau ou Saint-Jacques jusqu’au duo langoustine et pomme de terres, la braise nourrie au feu de bois enflamme les assiettes à presque tous les coups! Et quand la flamme argentine s’estompe, on s’extasie devant un millefeuille au foie gras et anguille fumée d’anthologie : gras onctueux et fumaison fusionnent et s’électrifient à coups de pickles de betterave et d’un condiment agrumes.”

Le Figaro (2016) “Cœur de bœuf fumé, déclinaison de topinambours: étonnant! Carré de sanglier, salsifis grillés, noisettes: charpenté. Tartelette aux pommes, camomille, citron vert: charmante variation de texture.”

Le Fooding (2015) “On the lunch menu when we were there: an impeccable venison and hazelnut terrine surrounded by cornichons; perfectly cooked line-caught bass with an anchovy and bergamot emulsion that was as fresh as summer dew, enlivened by pink and green radishes; and a fairytale ending with the marriage of chestnut and a fromage blanc ice cream, which was a little over-the-top in terms of presentation.”

Photo via Biondi’s Facebook page

>> Read More

La Fine Mousse Restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

La Fine Mousse Restaurant

It should come as no surprise that the Parisian craft beer pioneers behind La Fine Mousse bar would be the first to open a restaurant dedicated to beer and food pairings. Slightly more surprising is just how refined, inventive, and delicious the food here is. Knowledgeable beer sommeliers work closely with the talented chef to present an intelligent set of seasonal small plates, paired with beers from one of the 10 taps or the extensive bottle collection.

>> Read More

Restaurant AG in Paris | Paris By Mouth

Restaurant AG

Practical information

Address: 14 Rue Mondétour, 75001
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone01 42 61 37 17
Website   Facebook   Book Online

What people are saying

These reviews concern the old location in St-Germain before the restaurant moved to Les Halles

John Talbott (2014) “Star food without star prices… the sum total result was spectacular.”

Figaroscope (2014) “… une gastronomie de bourgeoisie éclairée, concentrée sur une courte carte dont les recettes se confortent au classicisme (sauces friandes, pâtisseries pâtissières) tout en se conformant au contemporain (cuissons ténues, aromatiques transversales, manières minaudes). Bref, avec pudeur et application, une adresse très Saint-Germain-du-frais.” >> Read More

Le Servan dining room in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Le Servan

Tatiana Levha, formerly at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, and her sister Katia have opened up this light, airy bistro with a central bar & hand painted ceiling. The short list of offerings changes each day, but expect seasonally driven cuisine inflected with international touches like tandoori spiced beurre blanc atop asparagus or harissa to spice up the line caught hake. Dessert left room for improvement, but otherwise Le Servan had reasonably priced, expertly executed dishes and friendly service in a beautiful space.

>> Read More

La Fine Mousse

Boasting the very best selection of craft beers on tap in Paris, as well as a bottle collection that brings the total offer up to 150 different beers, La Fine Mousse is certainly one of the city’s most well-stocked beer bars.  It’s also one of the most expensive.  French craft beers share real estate with lesser-known Belgians and German brews, with room left over for the USA, the Netherlands, and less-represented places like Norway and Italy to show off their brewing prowess.  The meticulously curated beer list includes deep tracks from Brasserie St. Germain and Brewdog, and the descriptions (in French or English) will help you find just the beer you’re looking for.  Serious beer geeks abound, the quiet atmosphere of the early evening eventually giving way to a lively party vibe as the social lubricant kicks in. >> Read More

Au Nouveau Nez

A small, thoughtful collection of natural wines lines the wall at this Oberkampf shop, where you can snack on charcuterie and cheese while enjoying a bottle, at zero corkage. There's more space at the second location, in the 20th.

>> Read More

Paris St-Bière

An alimentation génerale turned beer shrine, this tiny shop still carries convenience food alongside its floor-to-ceiling shelves of good beer. A refrigerated case promises cold beer to go, and the shop is open until very late on weeknights, just in case.

>> Read More

No Thumbnail

L’Ecailler du Bistrot

The “bistrot” in question is carnivore-heaven Paul Bert, just next door. But at L’Ecailler the focus is on seafood, including a gorgeous array of Belon, Utah Beach, and Spéciales.

>> Read More

Le Sot L'y Laisse Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

Le Sot-l’y-Laisse

Practical information

Address: 70 rue Alexandre Dumas, 75011
Nearest transport: Alexandre Dumas (2), Rue des Boulets (9)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday & Saturday for dinner only; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 40 09 79 20
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Facebook

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2011) “…worth every rapidly disappearing Euro.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “…le menu du déjeuner mérite l’éloge, le détour, pour sa générosité, son prix, ses produits frais, ses plats nets, leur précision, leur vigueur, leur légèreté grande.”

Food Intelligence (2011) “…une cuisine populaire, française, classique, débarrassée de l’inutile – épurée à l’esprit japonais. Un must eat absolu!”

Photo via Le Sot-l’y-Laisse’s Facebook page

>> Read More