Devotees of natural wine make the pilgrimage up the hill to this Belleville institution, where Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own brand of bistro cooking, sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. The lunch menu at 16€ is one of the best deals in town.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020
Nearest transport: Pyrenées or Belleville (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 49 39 70

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Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: modern French, bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, superior wine list
Type of crowd: foodies, bobos, neighborhood locals
Interior: bare bones & minimal
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Le Figaro (2011) “Que ce soit sur la formule déjeuner, à un tarif défiant toute concurrence pour cette qualité, ou à la carte, le soir. On ne cherche pas l’épate ici, ni la sophistication, juste la précision et le goût.”
  • François Simon (2011) “…une cuisinière comme il en existe plus à Paris…il y avait un menu dégustation et moi, qui aie une sainte horreur de cela, suis tombé sous la cavalcade, ravi et content : artichauds, bar  au vinaigre fume Tosazu, bouillon de poisson, calamars de Santander, cervelle de veau, au sel maldon, aiguillette de bœuf, barbue du Guilvinec, ris de veau, compotée de coing.”
  • Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Il y a l’ambiance de bistrot parigot comme dans le temps, la déco sobre et dans le vent, la compagnie de soiffards intellos qui ne boivent pas n’importe quoi et font attention au contenu de leurs assiettes, les jolis crus de Philippe Pinoteau, plus, bien sûrs, les plats pleins de vivacité, de malice, de fraicheur, de simplicité, de sincérité de la douce Raquel Carena.”
  • Figaroscope (2008) “…temple originel des vins dits « nature » dans la capitale…”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2008) “… every time I go to this restaurant, I fall in love with her food all over again… [Carena] cooks from her heart and also cooks from a winsome artistic sensibility that she’s probably still unaware of. Think a sort of gastronomic Grandma Moses, or a cook who paints with broad strokes of sincerity, innovative, and wit.”
  • François Simon (2007) “La simplicité sortant du puits, toute nue et savoureuse.”

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7 Responses to Le Baratin

  1. M says:

    Well the NYT certainly did this place a disservice since it’s now covered with tourists speaking “American”, Nonetheless it still offers great, simple, food with reasonably cheerful service and house cat that makes you envious of her pampered life.

  2. Malcolm Cole says:

    Sour remarks directed at tourists, Americans, the New York Times and the impact of publicity on any restaurant are terribly tedious. We’re all tourists now and again, and as an Englishman with many wonderful American friends, I am mystified by the snippy attitude towards Yanks that prevails among Britain’s chattering classes and a few Gauls.

  3. Becky Lamb says:

    Well, I’m an American who loves French people and all things French…can’t wait to try this restaurant in December when I am in Paris.

  4. ted says:

    The owner has a reputation as a jerk, and I can confirm from 2 experiences that it’s true. There are plenty of places just as good with a courteous welcome. Dont go.

  5. John Talbott says:

    “Dont go.”
    I’m shocked, shocked.
    Francois Simon said in October that Le Baratin [was, might be, couldh've been] the BEST restaurant in Paris.
    This is why there are culinary blogs and independant food websites.

  6. David says:

    Top 3 restaurant in the world for me. Love is the only word I need. Yes, the service is not the most welcoming. In fact, they probably do not want any tourist there but this a real authentic Paris experience. I’m going back in two weeks for my honeymoon and my new wife to be loves it every bit as much as me. Love dammit LOVE!

  7. Steve L. says:

    First time visitor to Paris, staying with a friend who has lived here for 25 years. Would never have found Le Baratin on my own, but having just arrived back at my flat after dinner there, would recommend to anyone. Two app’s, two entrees, one dessert and a small plate of fromage, a split glass of Condrieu and 50cl of vin rouge = $118eu. One of the better meals I’ve had for the $$ in a while, with very good food, excellent service and an energetic, happy crowd. Would recommend for any person – tourist, Brit, Yank or just person – who is looking for a great neighborhood restaurant.

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