Devotees of natural wine make the pilgrimage up the hill to this Belleville institution. Phillipe Pinoteau presides over the floor (don’t expect a smile, and don’t take it personally), and Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own brand of bistro cooking, sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. The lunch menu at 16€ is one of the best deals in town.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020
Nearest transport: Pyrenées or Belleville (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 49 39 70

View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: modern French, bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, superior wine list
Type of crowd: foodies, bobos, neighborhood locals
Interior: bare bones & minimal
Atmosphere: casual

Trusted reviews

  • Le Figaro (2011) “Que ce soit sur la formule déjeuner, à un tarif défiant toute concurrence pour cette qualité, ou à la carte, le soir. On ne cherche pas l’épate ici, ni la sophistication, juste la précision et le goût.”
  • François Simon (2011) “…une cuisinière comme il en existe plus à Paris…il y avait un menu dégustation et moi, qui aie une sainte horreur de cela, suis tombé sous la cavalcade, ravi et content : artichauds, bar  au vinaigre fume Tosazu, bouillon de poisson, calamars de Santander, cervelle de veau, au sel maldon, aiguillette de bœuf, barbue du Guilvinec, ris de veau, compotée de coing.”
  • Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Il y a l’ambiance de bistrot parigot comme dans le temps, la déco sobre et dans le vent, la compagnie de soiffards intellos qui ne boivent pas n’importe quoi et font attention au contenu de leurs assiettes, les jolis crus de Philippe Pinoteau, plus, bien sûrs, les plats pleins de vivacité, de malice, de fraicheur, de simplicité, de sincérité de la douce Raquel Carena.”
  • Figaroscope (2008) “…temple originel des vins dits « nature » dans la capitale…”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2008) “… every time I go to this restaurant, I fall in love with her food all over again… [Carena] cooks from her heart and also cooks from a winsome artistic sensibility that she’s probably still unaware of. Think a sort of gastronomic Grandma Moses, or a cook who paints with broad strokes of sincerity, innovative, and wit.”
  • François Simon (2007) “La simplicité sortant du puits, toute nue et savoureuse.”


3 Responses to Our Guide to Paris: Le Baratin

  1. M says:

    Well the NYT certainly did this place a disservice since it’s now covered with tourists speaking “American”, Nonetheless it still offers great, simple, food with reasonably cheerful service and house cat that makes you envious of her pampered life.

  2. Malcolm Cole says:

    Sour remarks directed at tourists, Americans, the New York Times and the impact of publicity on any restaurant are terribly tedious. We’re all tourists now and again, and as an Englishman with many wonderful American friends, I am mystified by the snippy attitude towards Yanks that prevails among Britain’s chattering classes and a few Gauls.

  3. Becky Lamb says:

    Well, I’m an American who loves French people and all things French…can’t wait to try this restaurant in December when I am in Paris.

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