Le Baratin

Le Baratin Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

Food and wine pilgrims are willing to climb the hill for this Belleville institution. Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own brand of bistro cooking, sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. Her husband Philippe’s wine cellar is one of the best in town, with an emphasis on small independent producers and natural wines. Don’t expect a smile from him, or really anyone else working there, just be glad that this place exists. The lunch menu remains one of the best deals in town.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020
Nearest transport: Pyrenées (11), Belleville (2, 11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 49 39 70
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Bistro
Book Online

Reviews of interest

The New York Times (2011) “This two-room place looks as if it put itself together with a design fee of zero. Yet it’s attractive and hip, at least in the style of an older generation… There are elegant touches, however, like the lovely water carafes sitting on the bar, and the easy, affordable and instantly likable wine list. Pintade — guinea hen — was cooked perfectly, the dark meat braised and the white roasted, along with mushrooms and cabbage cooked in butter.”

Le Fooding “Cette année, sérieux rafraîchissement: devanture moderne, murs d’un beau blanc, banquettes neuves et cuisine agrandie, où Raquel fait encore plus de flammes. La preuve: super tartare de maquereau au vinaigre fumé (11€), colvert en deux cuissons au gingembre et gelée de groseilles, lapin en ragoût de champignons et vin rouge, crème de chocolat amer… Philippe, moins causant, vous en apprendra quand même une ou deux bonnes dans le registre des secrets de cave: vacqueyras Sels d’Argent 2010 d’Eric Pfifferling, chenin d’Anjou Les Rouliers 2009 de Richard Leroy ou fitou des Mille Vignes.”

Timeout (2012) “Star pastry chef Pierre Hermé visits this cheerful little bistro and wine bar high up in Belleville at least every two weeks to fill up on Raquel Carena’s homely cooking with the occasional exotic twist… If the food weren’t so fantastic, it would still be worth coming for the mostly organic wines. Le Baratin attracts gourmands from all over Paris – so be sure to book.”

John Talbott (2011) “The ardoise is incredible – 18€ for 6 firsts, 3 mains and 3 desserts or cheese… Madame had the beet salad topped with chopped eggs, M. the museau vinaigrette and I the best of the three, chicken livers topped with tasteless chopped peanuts and salad.”

Figaroscope (2011) “Que ce soit sur la formule déjeuner, à un tarif défiant toute concurrence pour cette qualité, ou à la carte, le soir. On ne cherche pas l’épate ici, ni la sophistication, juste la précision et le goût.”

Simon Says (2011) “…une cuisinière comme il en existe plus à Paris…il y avait un menu dégustation et moi, qui aie une sainte horreur de cela, suis tombé sous la cavalcade, ravi et content : artichauds, bar  au vinaigre fume Tosazu, bouillon de poisson, calamars de Santander, cervelle de veau, au sel maldon, aiguillette de bœuf, barbue du Guilvinec, ris de veau, compotée de coing.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Il y a l’ambiance de bistrot parigot comme dans le temps, la déco sobre et dans le vent, la compagnie de soiffards intellos qui ne boivent pas n’importe quoi et font attention au contenu de leurs assiettes, les jolis crus de Philippe Pinoteau, plus, bien sûrs, les plats pleins de vivacité, de malice, de fraicheur, de simplicité, de sincérité de la douce Raquel Carena.”

Alexander Lobrano (2008) “… every time I go to this restaurant, I fall in love with her food all over again… [Carena] cooks from her heart and also cooks from a winsome artistic sensibility that she’s probably still unaware of. Think a sort of gastronomic Grandma Moses, or a cook who paints with broad strokes of sincerity, innovative, and wit.”


11 Comments on Le Baratin

  1. I am going to Paris this April/May and was planning on going to Baratin. Since I first read of it, it was on my list, but somehow I never made it. Now, I am wondering if I should use one of my precious meals at a disrespectful place. I am sorry, but cultural backrground should not influence how one is treated. In any case, I am not american but wear the maple leaf proudly. I was planning on stopping at the canal and having lunch at baratin or maybe at Roseval( or any other recommendations.) I am inclined to give them a chance.

  2. I normally do not leave comments, but felt compelled to share my deeply disappointing experience at Le Baratin. I was really excited to try it, as I have not been let down by Paris by Mouth recommendations until now. The meal was fine, nothing great, nothing terrible, but the way the owner treated my party was rude at best, and unprintable words at worst. While finishing our bottle of wine (still a third of it left) and our dessert, the owner approached our table and asked us to leave, as there were other people waiting for the table. He proceeded to lie to my face, saying that he had specifically told me on the phone that we could only have the table until 9:00 pm, when in reality I had made the reservation via La Fourchette and never spoke to the man. For context, I am not a tourist. I live in Paris, and I speak passable, if flawed French. I understand that restaurants need to turn tables and I do not expect gilt-edged service at a bistro, but there is no excuse to tell a customer who has just spent over 200 euros on a meal that he needs to leave while there is still food and drink on the table so that the next customer can be served, let alone to do so in such an uncouth, uncivilized, patronizing manner. I will never return to Le Baratin, and I hope at least some readers will choose not to try it, as there are a plethora of other options in Paris with equal or better food and owners deserving of their patronage.

  3. Hi John,
    While it’s true that lunch would be an easier walk-in than dinner, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to make a booking. The space is very small, so there’s a good chance they’d be full. We hope that you have a great time eating in Paris!

  4. Hello, wondering if reservations are required for lunch at Le Baratin or just for dinner. Trying to plan when and where to eat in Paris. Too many great places, not enough time!

  5. First time visitor to Paris, staying with a friend who has lived here for 25 years. Would never have found Le Baratin on my own, but having just arrived back at my flat after dinner there, would recommend to anyone. Two app’s, two entrees, one dessert and a small plate of fromage, a split glass of Condrieu and 50cl of vin rouge = $118eu. One of the better meals I’ve had for the $$ in a while, with very good food, excellent service and an energetic, happy crowd. Would recommend for any person – tourist, Brit, Yank or just person – who is looking for a great neighborhood restaurant.

  6. Top 3 restaurant in the world for me. Love is the only word I need. Yes, the service is not the most welcoming. In fact, they probably do not want any tourist there but this a real authentic Paris experience. I’m going back in two weeks for my honeymoon and my new wife to be loves it every bit as much as me. Love dammit LOVE!

  7. “Dont go.”
    I’m shocked, shocked.
    Francois Simon said in October that Le Baratin [was, might be, couldh’ve been] the BEST restaurant in Paris.
    This is why there are culinary blogs and independant food websites.

  8. The owner has a reputation as a jerk, and I can confirm from 2 experiences that it’s true. There are plenty of places just as good with a courteous welcome. Dont go.

  9. Sour remarks directed at tourists, Americans, the New York Times and the impact of publicity on any restaurant are terribly tedious. We’re all tourists now and again, and as an Englishman with many wonderful American friends, I am mystified by the snippy attitude towards Yanks that prevails among Britain’s chattering classes and a few Gauls.

  10. Well the NYT certainly did this place a disservice since it’s now covered with tourists speaking “American”, Nonetheless it still offers great, simple, food with reasonably cheerful service and house cat that makes you envious of her pampered life.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.