An absolute favorite

Book well in advance, and then look forward to Bertrand Grébaut’s  beautiful, seasonal cooking, pristine ingredients, and a fine list of natural wines to match.

Practical information

Address: 80 rue de Charonne, 75011
Nearest transport: Charonne (9)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 67 38 29
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Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-50€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: renowned chef
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: sleek & modern
Atmosphere: Casual

Reviews of interest

  • Philippe Toinard (2012) “…c’est sans doute l’un des meilleurs rapports qualité prix au déjeuner.”
  • Alexander Lobrano – NY Times (2011) “…both visually refined and relaxed, with a polite, house-party-in-the-country style hospitality…Though produce-centric, it eschews the Paris trend of name-dropping producers and lets the ingredients speak for themselves.”
  • Barbra Austin (2011) “Grébaut takes the prevailing farm to table ethos and backs it with serious skills and creativity. His food is visually gorgeous, and he neither over nor under-manipulates his ingredients. The five course, 55€ carte blanche dinner is a great value for cooking of this caliber…”
  • David Lebovitz (2011) “…the cooks are actually cooking, not just coming up with tricks and trends (like slate “plates” and jam jars) to obscure the fact that they don’t know what they’re doing, or that their ingredients aren’t good enough to be presented on their own without some sort of fuss and fanfare. Chef Bertrand Grébaut doesn’t seem to want to (or need to) resort to any culinary tricks; he’s just using good ingredients sensibly. And his presentations are beautiful.”
  • John Talbott (2011) “…great butcher block tables, spiral iron staircase, seemingly unfinished old walls…asparagus stalks with orange slices, microtomed carrots and tiny leaves of mountain spinach (arrach) and a terrine of layered foie gras, canard was it?, some scallion-like vegetable and a beet puree.  Terrific!”
  • François Simon (2011) “…une des plus belles découvertes de ce printemps. Le chef, Bertrand Grébaut, a été formé à l’école Passard. On retrouve ainsi dans son assiette cet eliptisme rayonnant… asperges, oranges, ricotta ou encore joue de cochon, jardinière, oseille sauvage. Encore ? Cabillaud, épinard, civet d’arêtes….La salle du restaurant Septime est dans ce même esprit : bois brut et épais, tables solides, country chic- barbe de trois jours. Service vraiment gentil…”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2011) “Grébaut reboots his short menu almost daily, but is obsessively committed to working with the best seasonal produce and also does smart and slightly seditious riffs on the Escoffier canon…A perfect example were the wonderfully crunchy white asparagus with an oyster-spiked sauce gribiche that I had as a first course…the iodine in the bivalves at once brightened and softened the acidity of the sauce gribiche, with trout eggs and artfully chosen herbs adding witty gastronomic punctuation…”
  • Caroline Mignot (2011) “Un lieu pas vraiment classable, pas bistrot, pas gastro non plus…Merlu/sauce vierge rhubarbe/asperges vertes Filet de poisson tendre, sauce beurrée et acidulée, oeufs de (mince, truite ?), radis émincés, toujours ce côté cru et cuit si plaisant au printemps, de la fraîcheur, du vif, c’est bon.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “Œuf, bouillon de champignon: limpide. Cochon noir, carottes et radis: sur la chair comme sur le végétal, un petit modèle de cuisson.”
  • Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “aujourd’hui, au déjeuner, pour 26 €, avec une entrée, un plat, un dessert, un verre de vin tiré d’une des dames-jeannes de la maison (une jolie syrah friande de Montbrison,), c’était, incontestablement, la belle affaire du moment. De la malice plus que du génie, de la bonne volonté, de l’aisance, de la fraîcheur et de la légèreté, davantage que de l’éclat.”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “Les assiettes vives et excitantes mobilisent les sens, aussitôt portées sur table. Quelques effluves de mer et voilà les asperges ou poireaux sauce gribiche, écume d’huitre et oeufs de truite. Du gourmand, une claque aux papilles!”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it to tipsparisbymouth@gmail.com

 

 

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