Tag Archives: natural wine

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Calendar of Upcoming Food & Wine Tours

ABOUT OUR TOURS

Our tours are lead by English-speaking food & wine professionals who share our passion for eating in Paris. The small-group food tours & the wine bar tour listed below are priced at €95 (including all tastings) and last around three hours. We keep these groups small in order to provide a more personalized experience for you, and to ensure that we are welcome in shops of exceptional quality.  You can click the links below to learn more and to book directly online.

A fabulous new tasting space in the Aligre market neighborhood permits us to welcome up to ten guests for the popular French Cheese & Wine Workshop and even larger groups for private and corporate tasting events. We also offer privatized versions of our food tours in Saint-Germain, the Marais and the Latin Quarter. For more information about private tours, just send us an email.

We are happy to accommodate any requests to avoid meat, gluten, dairy or alcohol, just let us know during the registration process.

Click to read what people have been saying about our tours, and we hope to see you soon!

OUR CALENDAR OF UPCOMING TOURS

October

Friday October 31

November

Saturday  November 1

  • All Saints Day- No Tours

Sunday November 2

Monday November 3

  • Taste of Saint-Germain at 4pm (sold out with wait list)

Tuesday November 4

Wednesday November 5

Thursday November 6

Friday November 7

Saturday November 8

  • Taste of the Marais at 10:30am (sold out with wait list)

Sunday November 9

Monday November 10

  • Taste of Saint-Germain at 4pm (sold out with wait list)

Tuesday November 11

  • Armistice Day- No Tours

Wednesday November 12

Thursday November 13

Friday November 14

Saturday November 15

Sunday November 16

Monday November 17

Tuesday November 18

Wednesday November 19

Thursday November 20

Friday November 21

Saturday November 22

Sunday November 23

Monday November 24

Tuesday November 25

Wednesday November 26

Thursday November 27

Friday November 28

Saturday November 29

Sunday November 30

December

Monday December 1

Tuesday December 2

Wednesday December 3

Thursday December 4

Friday December 5

Saturday December 6

Sunday December 7

Monday December 8

Tuesday December 9

Wednesday December 10

Thursday December 11

Friday December 12

Saturday December 13

Sunday December 14

Monday December 15

Tuesday December 16

Wednesday December 17

Thursday December 18

Friday December 19

Saturday December 20

Sunday December 21

Monday December 22

Tuesday December 23

Wednesday December 24

  • Christmas Eve - No Tours

Thursday December 25

  • Christmas Day - No Tours

Friday December 26

Saturday December 27

Sunday December 28

Monday December 29

Tuesday December 30

Wednesday December 31

January

Friday January 2

Saturday January 3

Monday January 5

Tuesday January 6

Wednesday January 7

Thursday January 8

Friday January 9

Monday January 12

Tuesday January 13

Wednesday January 14

Thursday January 15

Friday January 16

Monday January 19

Tuesday January 20

Wednesday January 21

Thursday January 22

Friday January 23

Monday January 26 

Tuesday January 27

Wednesday January 28

Thursday January 29

Friday January 30

February

Monday February 2

Tuesday February 3

Wednesday February 4

Friday February 6

Monday February 9

Tuesday February 10

Wednesday February 11

Friday February 13

Monday February 16

Tuesday February 17

Wednesday February 18

Thursday February 19

Friday February 20

Monday February 23

Tuesday February 24

Wednesday February 25

Thursday February 26

Friday February 27

le cave photo facebook

Le Cave

A wine shop from the restaurant Le Chateaubriand, driven by the passion of sommelier Sébastien Chatillon for natural, rare and foreign wines.

Practical information

Address: 129 avenue Parmentier, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (line 11)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday from 2-10pm. Closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 48 74 65 38
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2014) “Food is sold to-go, but no food is available for consumption on premises… Yet a rotating cast of the shop’s exotic, borderline faddish wines are available by the glass… The wines actually displayed on Le Cave’s walls are precisely the same ones available at, say… any hip Paris restaurant with a young, curious somm who is nonetheless handcuffed by the limited amount of good non-French natural wines that make it into France.”

Blouin ArtInfo (2013) “On pourra ici découvrir toute une gastronomie autant qu’une poésie de noms de lieux (Céphalonie, Santorin, Conca de Barbera, Swartland, Géorgie…), de noms de cépages (aleatico, ribolla gialla, mavrotragano, rkatsiteli, zacinjak), ainsi que des histoires fantastiques de popes qui font des vins depuis 1000 ans, de soleras de saké, de vinification en amphore ou de vins blancs faits comme des rouges.”

Photo via Le Cave’s Facebook page

lentree des artistes photo facebook

L’Entrée des Artistes

Expertly mixed cocktails and natural wines coexist peacefully at this low-key bar à manger.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue de Crussol, 75011
Nearest transport: Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 7pm-2am; closed Sunday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 09 50 99 67 11
Average price for a cocktail: 12€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2013) “Un lieu à la croisée des genres entre bar à cocktails, cave à manger et club d’habitués, où l’on se dispute la vingtaine de places disponibles, jusque tard dans la nuit. Très beau choix de vins, cocktails pleins de style et bonne bistrote familiale.”

World’s Best Bars (2011) “The cocktails tend towards the innovative but they’re happy to dish up the classics on request – the super friendly service is part of the appeal. The food menu is compact, but the dishes are tasty (try the cheese or charcuterie plates if you’re in the mood for a snack) and you have the comfort of knowing that they’re keeping it in the family – the food is all made by the sommelier’s mum.”

Aaron Ayscough (2011) “…alongside a boldly curated natural wine list, a list of cocktails that is the equal of any in the city…”

Forest Collins (2011) “…a relaxed, low key, pint-sized cocktail bar with a significant food and wine list as well…Given the care that’s going into these drinks, L’Entrée des Artistes currently rates as one of Paris’ best values for money in cocktail options.”

Photo via L’Entrée des Artistes’ Facebook

Le Baratin Paris bistro dining room photo Meg Zimbeck

Le Baratin

Food and wine pilgrims are willing to climb the hill for this Belleville institution. Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own brand of bistro cooking, sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. Her husband Philippe’s wine cellar is one of the best in town, with an emphasis on small independent producers and natural wines. Don’t expect a smile from him, or really anyone else working there, just be glad that this place exists. The lunch menu remains one of the best deals in town.

 An absolute favorite Continue reading

O Divin restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Ô Divin

What started off as a small natural wine bar near the Parc des Buttes Chaumont became in 2013, with the recruitment of chef Mathieu Moity, a more ambitious restaurant serving a Modern French tasting menu on Tuesday-Friday nights. Saturday night reverts to the old wine bar formula – excellent cheese and charcuterie plus oysters and other simple fare. Monday nights are exceptionally fun when the kitchen serves nothing but couscous de porc – an untraditional version with crispy suckling pig and vegetables that haven’t been simmered into oblivion. Owner and natural wine lover Naoufel Zaïm maintains a lengthy list of interesting bottles, but he’ll also pour glass by glass to let you discover new wines. The dining room is tiny, but in nice weather the doors open onto an interior courtyard that makes for one of Paris’ most charming outdoor patios. A local and friendly vibe, thanks to the out-of-the-way location.

 An absolute favorite

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verrevolelogo

Le Verre Volé (Cave)

This Verre Volé location is only a wine shop. For info on the resto – where you can also buy bottles – go here.

  An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 38 rue Oberkampf, 75011
Nearest transport: Oberkampf (9)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 43 14 99 46
Website

Reviews of interest

Wine Terroirs (2007) “Le Verre Volé is where you can check the heartbeat of the natural-wines world.”

Le Chapeau Melon restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Le Chapeau Melon

The “bowler hat” began as a wine shop featuring the astute organic selections of Olivier Camus (the former husband/co-owner of Raquel Carena/Le Baratin). Soon after, this caviste began serving dinner to a lucky few on Tuesday though Friday nights. His prix-fixe includes four incredible no-choice courses for less than €30. The selection of bottles that line the walls makes this a delight for any wine lover, and the cooking remains a steal for the price.

 An absolute favorite

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Jeu de Quilles by Barbra Austin

Jeu de Quilles

Benoit Reix packs them into his tiny, bright bistro, watching from behind the counter as diners happily devour dishes from his small, always-changing menu. Meats come from next-door-neighbor Hugo Desnoyer, and the wines are natural.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Boulard, 75014
Nearest transport: Mouton-Duvernet (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 53 90 76 22
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, French bistro

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “The tiny, friendly, open spot offers Desnoyer’s lamb from Aubrac, beef from the Auvergne and Normandy (photo), succulent pork, as well as fresh langoustines and razor clams, heirloom tomato salad, and a carefully selected list of wines…I’ll go back: The place is too easy, friendly, and generous not to.”

Barbra Austin for Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “…the best ingredients served simply and thoughtfully…”

Bruno Verjus (2009) “…le meilleur des viandes, poissons et légumes…la spontanéité dans le coeur comme dans l’assiette, le naturel mélange terre/mer (délicieuse tortilla de pomme de terre et palourdes tièdes…)”

François Simon (2010) “…tranche de boudin, salade de tarbais, carré d’agneau Desnoyer… boeuf de Galice, faux-filet, San Daniele, burrata, saucisson de l’Ardèche…Tout est dans la netteté et dans l’honnêteté…”

John Talbott (2008) “…we both chose the veal which with sliced veggies and fries were all again (sorry) very good product.  Our dessert was a shared clafoutis of mirabelles and again was quite good.”

Caroline Mignot (2008) “…la noix de veau, tendre, encore un peu rosée à l’intérieur, délicieusement saisie dans ses sucs de cuisson, une pincée d’estragon…Une redescente exquise dans les joies de Paris.”

 

Le Grand 8

Natural wines and simple cooking rule at this low-key Montmartre bistro.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue Lamarck, 75018
Nearest transport: Lamarck-Caulaincourt (12)
Hours: Closed Monday; Dinner, Tuesday-Sunday; lunch, Saturday-Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 55 04 55
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2011) “Le Grand 8’s dining room positively brims with restaurateurs and natural wine folk, on Sunday evenings in particular…the cuisine is unpretentious bistro fare, the sorts of things that are offered in provincial railway stations, only here composed with better ingredients.”

John Talbott (2009) “I ordered the hierloom tomatoes sans the mozzarella and they were simply terrific, wonderful, great. Then I had a rumsteak, cooked to my perfection, which was horrible, tasteless and without redeeming value…Go?  If stuck up on the Mont, I suppose so…”

Au Passage in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Au Passage

Small plates range from the standard charcuterie and now-obligatory burrata to more light and creative fare, based on great products from the likes of Terroirs d’Avenir and Joël Thiébault. The vibe is relaxed, the prices are right, and the wines are natural. Note: James Henry, the chef mentioned in most of these reviews, has left and is now at Bones.

 An absolute favorite

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Eggplant with Brie. Photo by Aaron Ayscough.

Encore

Brand-name suppliers (Joel Thiebault, Quatrehommes, Annie Bertin, Hugo Desnoyers, Christophe Vasseur, Terroirs d’Avenir) and natural wines are the backbone of this trend-heavy, but pleasant, modern French bistro helmed by the young Japanese chef Yoshi Morie.

Practical information

Address: 43 rue Richer, 75009
Nearest transport: Cadet (7), Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday; closed Saturday & Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 72 60 97 72
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “L’adresse ne manque pas de zèle mais, à s’y attarder, dans ses tics et détails, il ne serait pas interdit de commencer à se lasser d’un bon ton devenu filon.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Et qui fait le buzz, serions-nous tenté d’ajouter ! Réseaux sociaux et blogosphère se sont enflammés pour cette adresse ouverte pendant l’été, et ce pour une unique raison, la présence en cuisine de Yoshi Morie que certains ont connu au Petit Verdot (6e). À tous les écouter et les lire, il a un talent fou. Certainement, mais à condition de goûter sa cuisine au dîner, parce qu’au déjeuner, c’est bon mais ça ne mérite pas tout ce tintamarre. Or, on attend d’un chef que sa cuisine soit aussi séduisante au déjeuner qu’au dîner.”

Adrian Moore (2013) “had one of the best meals of the pre-rentrée: 30€ for three delicious courses: a bright, crunchy mussels and cauliflower starter flavored with a vadouvan emulsion (French/Indian spice mix), and main course of monkfish with mixed cooked and raw vegetables (broccoli, burnt aubergine), all dishes doing a perfect job of creating layers of comforting taste and washed down with well chosen wines from our charming waitress. The dessert was the best I’ve had this season: a violet and fig compote with a Timut pepper sorbet.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The only things I’m likely to remember about this place in two week’s time are the soulful icon of the smooth old wooden butcher’s block incorporated into the bar, the excellent white Gaillac we drank, the exceptionally alert and friendly service…I don’t doubt that Yoshi Morie is a sincere and talented chef, but I’d want him to find his own unique culinary signature and dare some livelier music on the plate before I returned for an encore, especially at these prices.”

John Talbott (2013) “This was chow worth schlepping 30 minutes for.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “And a plat of monkfish, chanterelles, and sea snails was a singularly intense marriage of forest and sea, like a walk in a public park in Atlantis. Every ingredient was in magnificent form: the monkfish flesh rich but not chewy, the chanterelles hauntingly bright and peachy.”

Chicken consommé with foie gras and wild mushrooms at Vivant Table in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Vivant Table

Pierre Jancou has relaunched Vivant Table with chef Sota (ex-Troisgros, Robuchon, Stella Maris & Toyo) at the helm and more ambitious menus at 29/39€ at lunch and 55€ at dinner. There’s also a carte blanch menu with 7-8 dishes (no choice). The wine remains all-natural, but the cooking is better than ever. Update: Jancou sold Vivant Table and Vivant Cave in December 2013 to the owners of Racines.

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Yard, Paris

Yard

The former construction yard turned bistro has been around Père Lachaise for years, but the arrival of chefs Shaun Kelly and Eleni Sapera, formerly of Au Passage and Bones, is a breath of fresh air. Expect a lengthy list of natural wines, modern product driven small plates, and a warm welcome from owner Jane Drotter.

Practical information

Address: 6 Rue de Mont-Louis, 75011
Nearest transport: Philippe Auguste (2)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open for lunch & dinner Tuesday-Friday; Lunch only on Monday
Reservations: No reservations accepted for lunch, Book a few days in advance for dinner
Telephone: 01 40 09 70 30
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Facebook

Reviews of Interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “Un air de taverne, des cuistots qui s’agitent derrière le passe-plat, je n’ai pas réussi à déterminer exactement quoi, mais il y a dans cette atmosphère quelque chose inconnu de Paris.”

Jerome Berger (2014) “Une cuisine de façade.”

Charles Patin O’Coohoon (2014) “Le chef australien Shaun Kelly réussit le mélange des genres français et Commonwealth dans l’assiette.”

John Talbott (2014) “Another great prix-qualité joint.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “Under its previous chef, Fabrice Mellado… Yard had a reputation as a pleasant brunch environment. Now, with Kelly and Sapera turning out a starkly sophisticated market menu and a generously priced natural wine list by Drotter, it’s poised to become something more.”

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - Chinese crepes with beef knuckle, peanuts, sesame, celery

First Look: Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - oysters

Le Mary Celeste is a new restaurant from the people behind Candelaria and Glass. Accordingly, there’s a solid cocktail program and two Brooklyn beers on tap. Another creative and beautiful (now nautical) interior from David Rager, Cheri Messerli and Gilles Tombeur. These will get a lot of attention, as will the rotating cast of mostly wild oysters sold by the piece for 2-5€. But the real story here is Haan Palcu-Chang.

Haan is a Canadian of Romanian and Chinese descent whose most recent professional gigs were in Michelin-starred restaurants in Copenhagen. However skilled he may now be in the art of making foams and gels, he’s equally passionate about time spent learning how to cook from “real Asians” in New Zealand and about the ethnic food scene in his native Toronto. He’s a food nerd, and this is the first time that he’s been given control over a kitchen.

When you mix together the technique, the respect for ingredient and the ethos of everything-from-scratch, the result is a small plates menu that’s so much better than it needs to be. In the same spirit as Paris’ Au Passage or Copenhagen’s Fiskebar – this is a place where serious Food is being transmitted through a small plates medium to unshaven people in skinny jeans.

Examples

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - pickled topinambour

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - beef jerky

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - kimchi

Bar snacks of (all housemade) pickled topimambour, beef jerky, kimchi

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - Chinese crepes with beef knuckle, peanuts, sesame, celery

Crêpes Chinoises: beef shin, celery, sesame, peanuts

 There’s also a respect for vegetables here that one doesn’t often find in Paris. While we were tempted by the poitrine de veau (veal breast) with coconut milk or the pintade (guineau hen) with tare sauce, we surrendered instead to a vegetarian dish with two kinds of cabbage, black beans and a roasted carrot that was so deeply savory it could have been meat. The two dishes I’ll return for are also meat-free: steamed oysters with chili, black vinegar, and crispy shallots, plus endives with tamarind and mint. Tamarind also flavors a chocolate creme dessert with Maldon salt. When’s the last time anyone saw tamarind in Paris?

Le Mary Celeste cocktails - Judy Blue Eyes and Rain Dog

I opted instead for a dessert cocktail (or two). My favorite was the Rain Dog, made with small batch bourbon, bitters, mint, lemon and sirop de capillaire. That last ingredient is a house-made infusion of simple syrup, orange flower water, and dried maidenhair fern. It’s what makes the drink more than a mint julep, and it’s what makes the drink 12 euros.

Practical Advice

It’s possible to reserve (only by email at reservations@lemaryceleste.com), and I would recommend doing so. The dining room was absolutely packed at 8pm on a Thursday with no place to sit besides our two reserved seats.

P1240156

It’s also possible to order sequentially, another something I would recommend. Nearly all of the five dishes we ordered arrived at one time, along with a giant oyster platter, and these didn’t fit on the tiny little table. My friend and I took turns holding plates in the air above the platter to let the other person take a few bites. The result: a stream of fatty jus dribbling from the crêpe chinois onto an unsuspecting kumamoto oyster below. Delicious, actually. We then had to stack the demolished plates under my chair to free up our hands for oyster play. It made the waitress giggle, and we thought it was fun. However, other eaters may have different standards, and they should order sequentially.

The best move would be to arrive early for a first round during the 5-7 pm Happy Hour when oysters (one special per day) are sold at only 1€ a piece. Wash them down with a good bottle of Muscadet from Marc Olivier for 22€ or an even better Muscadet from Guy Bossard for 34€.  Then order everything on Haan’s food menu, and as many drinks  as you can stand from Carlos (ex-L’Hotel) Madriz’ cocktail menu. You will float out very full and, like the namesake sea vessel, on your way to wandering lost.

For more details, including address and hours, see the page for Le Mary Celeste in Our Guide to Paris Restaurants.

Pierre Jancou at Vivant in September 2012

Pierre Jancou spanks magazine for “fradulent” free meal request


Pierre Jancou is many things: a lover of food, an ambassador of natural wine, and (as we learned this week) a former male model. He is also (as we learned from last year’s exchange with F-R Gaudry) a man with a temper.

On October 19, Jancou received an email from the secretary to Jean-Paul Ludot, the Directeur Général of Marie-Claire, announcing that Vivant had been selected to feature as his favorite restaurant of the month. This was paired with a request for the boss man (and a guest) to eat for free.

Jancou replied that he had never in 24 years invited a journalist to eat for free and that he found such a request to be “louche et frauduleuse.” Ludot himself responded that this was a “very classic approach to test restaurant menus and write articles.” He then cited the number of Marie-Claire readers and told Jancou that he would remove Vivant from their selection. “You are the only one to react this way… and as aggressively,” he continued in a follow-up reply. He went on to say that Jancou was “stingy.”

How do I know all this? Because Jancou forwarded the email chain to me (and many others) on October 21. I giggled and emailed him my reply, but another recipient, Bruno Verjus, published the entire correspondence on his blog Food Intelligence. That gave rise to stories in Le Monde, Le Nouvel Observateur, Le Figaro, L’Express and other major media outlets.

In response, Marie-Claire has issued an official apology for Ludot’s “personal error.” Ludot himself has apologized for his “clumsiness” and assured us that his “attitude has been shifted.”

The greater shifts, however, are in the balance of power between old and new media, and between restaurants and journalists. Ludot’s boast to Jancou that “others have understood that it was an opportunity to put forward their establishment in a major magazine… with 500,000 readers” reveals an (unsurprising) unawareness of the fact that Jancou doesn’t need him.

Restaurants, if they are any good, have already been written and written about. Journalists have little to offer in the way of “exposure” to restaurants that are already full every night. The days of free meals, for the writer (and their bosses) are surely coming to an end. Maybe even for Pudlo.

 

André Ostertag and Drew Harré at La Derniere Goutte

Paris food & wine events for the weekend of December 10-12

Parties

Free Wine Tastings

  • December 10 (Friday) at La Dernière Goutte: a free “2 1/2 Happy Hours” tasting with wine and cheese from 5-7:30pm at 6 rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006.
  • December 11 (Saturday) at Les Caves Taillevent: a free tasting of suggested holiday wines, “Noël provençal: quels vins pour le sublimer?” From 10am-5pm at 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008.
  • December 11 (Saturday) at La Dernière Goutte: a free tasting with Isabelle Champart from Mas Champart (Saint-Chinian), Jean Gardiés (Cotes du Roussillon Villages) and Champagne maker Franck Pascal, who will be pouring the prize-winning Sagesse Brut Nature and other bubbles. From 11am-7:30pm at 6 rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006.

Paid Wine Tastings

  • December 10-11 (Friday & Saturday) at the Carrousel du Louvre: Le Grand Tasting, a two-day tasting event hosted by Bettane & Desseauve and featuring winemakers from all over France, including many top producers from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne (consult list here). The price of entry is €20 for one day and €25 for both days and includes a Riedel wine glass for tasting. From 10:30am-8:30pm on Friday and 10:30am-7:30pm on Saturday at 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001.

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