Alice Feiring explains how deep kissing factors into the natural wine movement, François Chidaine blasts InterLoire, Lettie Teague and Aaron Ayscough praise some local wine lists, and Paris gets its first Tiki Bar.
A small wine bar near the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont specializing in natural wines and simple, affordable food.
Aaron calls Ô Divin “the sort of wine bar I’ve been praying to find ever since I arrived in Paris,” Thierry finds a new girl (Loretta) to flirt with, and Forest returns to an old friend.
- Aaron Ayscough uncovers a new place offering “natural wine + food + perfect cocktails…”
- Clotilde Dusoulier celebrates her 8th year of blogging and invites readers of Chocolate & Zucchini to gather for a party at Verjus…
- And speaking of Verjus… Bruno is being coy today, posting photos of a soon-to-open spot to which “all of Paris will run…”
Expertly mixed cocktails and natural wines coexist peacefully at this low-key, über-cool bar à manger.
- Left bank bad news: La Compagnie de Bretagne has launched a homeopathic campaign to rid the galette of its plebeian simplicity“ and La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels is an ”outrageously hubristic thumb-in-the-eye to anyone who cares about or works with or understands natural wine.”
- Left bank good news: Coutume continues to be awesome.
The kitchen talent at this new wine bar comes from Spring and Le Verre Volé, and the small plates feel like a hybrid between the two. They range from the standard rillettes, saucisse, and now-obligatory burrata to more light and creative fare, based on great products from the likes of Terroirs d’Avenir and Joël Thiébault. The vibe is relaxed, the prices are right, and the wines, as if you had to ask, are natural. Open until 2 a.m. most nights.
- Emmanuel Rubin gives two hearts to the posh L’Elysées du Vernet, which he calls “charming, exquisite, but impressive.” He says the tempura frogs’ legs with curry and watercress, is the not-to-miss dish, and recommends taking Carla Bruni there for lunch. [Le Figaro]
- Caroline Mignot says the dark chocolate cream puff at Popelini is “a real dessert in itself,” and “the kind of perfect little thing to devour on the spot.” [Table à Découvert]
- Forest forgoes the “Asian Touch” offerings in favor of the Shangri-La‘s signature Pink Lady cocktail. “She was one dimensional and flat,” says Forest (and a number of my ex-boyfriends), and not worth the 25€ price tag. [52 Martinis]
- Adam creams the new choux place Popelini, saying “it’s a great idea, but they need to fine-tune the approach… it’s C+/B- work.” Their signature puffs have a fondant that is ”way too sweet and just texturally awkward” and the interior is “just a downer.” He’ll revisit, but “for now Jacques Genin and Pain de Sucre will be my only touted hotspots in the Marais.” [Paris Pâtisseries]
Pierre Jancou is alive and well, back in Paris, militant passion intact, doing what he does best: Offering the very best products, prepared “sans chi chi,” (his words), and natural wines.
The open kitchen at Autour d’un Verre faces a tiny dining room where neighborhood locals and natural wine geeks tuck into straightforward fare washed down with bottles of “gritty natural wine“. Gritty in a good way.
Benoit Reix packs them into his tiny, bright bistro, watching from behind the counter as diners happily devour dishes from his always-changing menu.
Entering Le Tombé du Ciel feels a little like walking into the home of that guy you know who has always talked about converting his basement or garage into a bar.
Happy Plates
- Alexander Lobrano has a budding crush on Le Pantruche, recalling coddled eggs and salt cod, foie gras, and feathered caps. His soufflé fell flat and the rice pudding was soggy, but he still gives the new bistro a B+. He also raves over the Shanghai style grilled dumplings at Q-TEA. [Hungry for Paris]
- Patricia Wells‘ latest review, which promises “a calming Zen moment,” may cause you to cancel your next spa day in favor of lunch at Toyo. [Patricia Wells]
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