A restaurant run by a chef-in-residence is a difficult thing to review, but we’re gonna try. Welcoming a slate of visiting chefs from across the world, Early June is an airy, no-reservations restaurant just off the Canal Saint-Martin boasting a robust natural wine “list” (Yes, this is the sort of place where you’ll have to fight – hard – to see what’s on offer and may just have to capitulate and trust the somm). The funky-or-funkier wines accompany a selection of seasonal small plates that, understandably, evolves with each visitor but encompasses offerings embracing plants, seafood, and meat. Choose between a table inside with a view of the open kitchen or one of a handful of outdoor seats overlooking the Canal. Just be sure to get there early: reservations are only accepted for parties of four or more. For everyone else, it’s first come, first served. Early June opens at 6pm, and by 6:45, you’re likely to be nursing a glass of natural wine in the queue.