With its chili jam-slathered sandwiches and extra-salty chocolate cookies, Gramme could easily be found in London or Brooklyn. But Gramme shouldn’t be dismissed as a watery import – the food is excellent, and the vibe is very local. Their signature dwich (this is how Parisians now refer to sandwiches) is the sort of thing I want to eat every weekend – a runny egg with herbs, chili jam, copious herbs, and either sausage or charred broccolini on a fresh brioche bun. Their take on fish sandwich is also delicious, with pickled ginger and daikon providing the contrast for buttered pain de mie, fried fish, and homemade mayo. You’ll want to linger over coffee with a slice of carrot cake and watch all the people who were drinking last night at Septime Cave slowly coming back to life. They’re open at night, but Gramme was clearly built for brunch. Their sister location in Ménilmontant takes online reservations, but this Marais location does not.
In the 11th at 96 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
OUR PHOTOS OF GRAMME
IN OTHER WORDS
- Le Fooding (2019) “We’ll say it loud and proud: Gramme rocks!… For us, the other day at lunch: a fresh tartine topped with labneh, heirloom tomatoes, roasted figs and sage chips; addictive aioli with steamed vegetables, a hard-boiled egg and bottarga; a very enjoyable brioche banh mi with pulled pork, pickles and cilantro – available all year round!”