Le CasseNoix is a neighborhood bistro just south of the Eiffel Tower in the 15th arrondissement. Chef Olivier Lenormand won the competition for best junior pastry chef in France at age 17, and worked for many years under Bruno Doucet at La Régalade. Like his mentor, he begins each meal by giving away something delicious – in this case a small crock of chicken liver mousse. His menu succeeds when he sticks to classic French dishes – a ballontine of rabbit with baby peas and carrots was delicious, as was the rice pudding that concluded our meal. More creative attempts, like cod with orange and passion fruit sauce, were puzzling. Nothing here is going to blow you away, but it’s affordable (three courses for 39€), it’s open on Monday, it’s near the Eiffel Tower, and relatively easy to get into.
OUR PHOTOS OF LE CASSENOIX
IN OTHER WORDS
John Talbott (2014) “The menu is as interesting as ever.”
Table à Découvert (2011) “Générosité, simplicité et un petit truc en plus qui enrobe le tout d’une sincère gourmandise…”
Figaroscope (2011) “Au bon matelas d’un arrondissement solidement rembourré de plumes bistrotières, un petit nouveau tirant joliment la couverture d’une cuisine troussée à manière sur un impayable décor jadis et pépère.”
John Talbott (2010) “The decor spells out the tone they’re setting right away: old Michelin‘s on a shelf over the kitchen door, faux-stained glass on the door to the kitchen, beautiful but unmatched light fixtures, old coat hooks on the walls…As an amuse bouche, we were served a chicken liver paste with two types of superb bread and that and a delicious piece of sauteed foie gras with wonderful salad and quince slices…”