Restaurant David Toutain

Restaurant David Toutain in Paris |

David Toutain is back. The much lauded chef, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned with his own place during the last days of 2013.  His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain’s ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard. Tasting menus range from 42€ at lunch to 98€ for the most extensive menu (available at lunch or dinner). Wine pairings – thoughtfully done – are available for another 40-50€.

— Meg Zimbeck, February 2014

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 29 rue Surcouf, 75007
Nearest transport: Invalides (8, 13, RER C)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 45 50 11 10
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “At his Left Bank outpost, Toutain, who grew up on a farm in Normandy, honors the produce-based tradition of the region with dishes like seared foie gras in baked potato bouillon with black truffles.”

Atabula (2015) “Bref, une cuisine sur la retenue alors même que le talent était là, omniprésent, incontesté et incontestable.”

Le Monde (2015) “Ce chef n’a peur de rien. De la branche de salsifis craquant, crème de panais et chocolat blanc en amuse-bouche à la crème de chou-fleur, coco, chocolat blanc en prédessert, on va de surprise en surprise durant ce menu obligé.”

Sugared & Spiced (2014) “Clever, beautiful small plates made up of pristine ingredients.”

L’Express (2014) “Retenez le nom de ce chef surdoué: il va faire le tour du monde.”

Eater (2014) ” His surprise menus are inventive, eclectic, and hyper-seasonal.”

Patricia Wells (2014) “David Toutain is a cerebral chef. Nothing is accidental and when you enter his brand new 7th arrondissement restaurant you are subject to his rules and his way of thinking. Yet you never feel as though your arm is being twisted. This is not a restaurant for a casual meal, but rather one that is meticulously planned and thought out, and begs for, yes deserves,  your attention. And it’s well worth your time.”

The New York Times (2014) “The rhythm of the prix-fixe menu, which changes daily, is intentionally varied. Toutain composes meals so that a quiet dish, like seared foie gras in baked potato bouillon with black truffles, sets up the drama of another dish meant to dazzle, like a monochromatic white composition of cuttlefish with yuba (bean-curd sheet) and nearly translucent Parmesan gnocchi, seasoned with the juice extracted from cooking the cheese at a very low temperature for many hours.”

Le Fooding (2014) “Chez lui, Toutain joue en sourdine. Décor aéré presque sévère (bois, béton, aplats gris), service cravaté et… carte muette ! Tout commence par une page blanche – une table en bois massif qui s’habille pièce à pièce : serviette, verres, cailloux, coupelles, terres cuites.”

John Talbott (2013) “Any striking plusses? The wonderful warmth of the newly gathered staff (quite astonishing). The innovative, consistent, explosive food.”

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