Tag Archives: 75004

Les Caves du Marais

Crates and bottles are piled high in this bare bones shop, run for more than two decades by Jean-Jacques Bailly, who offers good prices on estate bottled wines from all over France.

Practical information

Address: 64 rue François Miron, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1) or Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30am-1pm and 4pm-8pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 42 78 54 64

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2010) “The proprietor, one Jean-Jacques Bailly, has been there 21 years, and in the Paris wine retail scene that amounts to a good head start on other caves in building the sorts of finicky, trust-based relationships with vignerons and agents that are necessary to stock the great names of wine…”

Berthillon Ice Cream  Paris Photo Barbra Austin


If you have only one ice cream cone in Paris, make sure it comes from Berthillon, the long-standing grande dame of glaces. The tea salon is worth a visit, too.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Monday, Closed Tuesday
Telephone: 01 43 54 31 61

Reviews of interest

GQ (2013) “Fruits de saison, respect du produit et savoir-faire font de l’entreprise familiale l’un des meilleurs glaciers de Paris. Tous les week-ends, les mangeurs de glaces prennent leur gourmandise en patience et attendent sagement de pouvoir commander à leur tour, le fameux cornet glacé.”

Serious Eats (2012) “The fruit sorbets are decidedly potent but never too sweet—every year I’ve declared I’ve found a new favorite flavor…The scoops are tiny so you could easily do a double or triple with no regrets.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2012) “Il y avait moins de monde [en hiver], pas de queue, le service souriait. Et le joli et récent salon de bouche qui permet de prendre ses aises était quasi vide. Bref, c’est le moment de redécouvrir le plus célèbre, quoique finalement le moins connu des glaciers de Paris (il ferme toujours l’été!), au coeur de l’île Saint-Louis.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “The one and only, incontournable, classic…”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “No one knows how Berthillon does it (and they’re not telling), but they make ice cream with the deepest, truest flavors ever churned.”

Clotilde Dusoulier (2008) Recommended in Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris.

David Lebovitz (2007) “This most-famous of all Parisian glaciers makes what many consider the best ice cream in the world.

Additional Images

Berthillon Ice Cream Photo Barbra Austin

Berthillon Ice Cream  Paris Photo Barbra Austin

Berthillon Ice Cream  Paris Photo Barbra Austin

Pozzetto Gelato Paris Photo Barbra Austin


Head to Pozzetto for seriously good gelato, made daily in small batches.  And for an added bonus, some of the best espresso in Paris. Their second location, Pozzetto Salato, is a small Italian epicerie with salty treats and sandwiches to complement the sweets.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 39 rue Roi de Sicile, 75004
Nearest transport: St. Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 42 77 08 64
Website Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 16 rue Vielle du Temple, 75003
Nearest transport: Châtelet (1,4,7,11,14)

Reviews of interest

Lindsey Tramuta (2012) “…each of the 12 all-natural flavors prepared daily in small quantities are exceptional.  Pistachio, gianduja (chocolate and hazelnut) and fior di latte are Maura’s favorites and some of the most popular flavors.”

Barbra Austin (2009) “…12 flavors, all fairly traditional, made daily in small batches.”

Clotilde Dusoulier (2008) Recommended in Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris.

David Lebovitz (2007) “…simply the best gelato in Paris.”

Chrisoscope (2007) “Glaces toujours bonnes, à la limite de la fusion, mais juste ce qu’il faut…”

Deliziefollie Gelato Paris Photo  atk1983 Flickr


The gelato comes in many colors at Deliziefollie, including some not found in nature.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Montorgeuil, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 40 26 06 00

Additional locations

Address: 26 rue Saint Andre des Arts, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint Michel (4, RER B, C)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 55 42 99 92

Reviews of interest

Chrisos (2007) “Loin d’être le paradis Deliziefollie…”

Photo via atk1983’s Flickr (Hiroshi Ataka)

Gelati d'Alberto Paris Photo Gelati d'Alberto Facebook

Gelati d’Alberto

Your choice of flavors will be formed into a colorful rose shape at this popular gelato shop.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Mouffetard, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 77 11 44 55

Additional locations

Address: 12 rue des Lombards, 75004
Nearest transport: Chatelet (1, 4, 7, 11, 14)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 77 11 44 55

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “Once you’ve tasted the classic flavours, try the Nutella, green tea or even the vodka Red Bull varieties. The more flavours you choose, the prettier your ice cream flower becomes. On a sunny day, rows of expectant ice cream buyers snake their way along Rue Mouffetard, so be prepared to queue.”

Figaroscope (2010) “Alberto, c’est le poète du froid, l’homme qui perpétue la tradition familiale et sculpte ses glaces italiennes à la spatule, leur donnant des formes de pétales de rose…

Photo courtesy of Gelati d’Alberto’s Facebook

moustache blanche beers

La Moustache Blanche

Hipster beer geekiness pervades this shop just off the Place de la Bastille, with a record player spinning the blues, a faux phone box housing the English beers, and a periodic table of beer styles on the wall.  Prices are very fair, and Guillaume, the friendly young owner is rightly proud of his ever-growing collection which boasts 500 beers from all over the world.  Featured prominently are craft beers from the United States and Northern Europe, Belgian Trappist and Abbey beers, and seasonally-appropriate selections.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 16, rue des Tournelles, 75004
Nearest transport: Bastille (1, 5, 8)
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 11:00am-8:30pm, Friday-Saturday 12:00pm-9:30pm, Sunday 2:00pm-8:00pm
Telephone: 01 75 57 15 06
Average price: 33cl bottles 2-5€
Notable brews: Anchor (USA), Fuller’s (England), De Molen (Netherlands), Fleurac (France)

caveabulles beer shop

La Cave à Bulles

Simon Thillou’s shop is the place to go for craft beer made in France.  He works with brewers all over the country to source his remarkable and impeccably curated collection of small-batch French beers.  There is a little shelf space set aside for brews from further afield, but these can mostly be found elsewhere for less money.  Focus on the regional French beers – if you don’t know where to start, Simon is more than happy to help find something to your taste, and he speaks English for those shy about their French beer vocabulary.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Quincampoix, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10:00am-2:00pm and 4pm-8:00pm; closed Sunday, Monday, and Wednesday morning
Telephone: 01 40 29 03 69
Average price: 75 cl bottles 4-8€
Notable brews: Volcelest (Ile-de-France), Brasserie Uberach (Alsace), Saint Rieul (Picardie), Oc Ale (Midi-Pyrénées)

Additional reviews

La Cave à Bulles page on Beer Advocate


This Roanne-based shop is known for their bean-to-bar chocolate tablets – packaged in unmistakable, multicolored stacks – and Praluline, a praline-studded brioche.

Practical information

Address: 35 rue Rambuteau, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-7:30pm; Sunday, 10am-7pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 48 04 05 05
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

L’Express (2011) “On connaît la passion de ce grand artisan, qui réalise son propre chocolat et a planté des cacaoyers sur l’île de Madagascar. On la goûte avec délice aussi. Depuis les nobles ganaches, onctueuses bombes de cacao, jusqu’au praliné rustique et savoureux, en reprenant un peu de cette orangette revisitée qui fait tourner toutes les têtes, ravissante et admirablement équilibrée.”

Paris Patisseries (2011) “So, yes, all things considered, I would definitely recommend Pralus’s Chuao. What it lacks in magic, it makes up for in pure sophistication.”

La Caféothèque Photo Barbra Austin

La Caféothèque

Beans are roasted right before your eyes at this excellent coffee boutique. Take a bag home, or take a seat in the back room and order a drink from the expert barista.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue de la Hôtel de Ville, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Open every day, 9:30am-7:30pm
Telephone: 01 53 01 83 84

Reviews of interest

Lindsey Tramuta-Morel (2013) “Arguably the pioneer of the coffee movement in Paris; an artisanal roaster/coffee shop located a few blocks from Hôtel de Ville. The beans are sourced from all over the world and roasted in front of you.”

David Lebovitz (2011) “I’ve pretty much said everything I could about the “coffee issue” in Paris here*, but one place that’s trying to buck the trend is La Caféothèque, a shop and café that roasts coffee beans from all over the world. It’s also one of the (very) few places in Paris where I’ve seen a person preparing café express (espresso) correctly…”

Sacha Finkelsztajn

Since 1946, this bakery and traiteur has been offering Jewish and eastern European specialties, from cheesecake and strudel to pastrami, to a loyal clientele in the heart of the Marais.

Practical information

Address: 27 rue des Rosiers, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Wednesday-Monday 10am-7pm; Closed Tuesday
Telephone: 01 42 72 78 91

Reviews of interest 

Emma Bentley (2012) “Here you can find every sort of Jewish, Polish, Eastern European pastry, bread or pie under the sun… Brace yourself for a certain level Eastern European service before you step foot inside. The man behind the cash desk (yes, you pick what you want, you take your ticket to the desk, you pay, then go back to get what you ordered) barked at me in a manner that made your average French waiter or waitress look like a teddy bear in comparison!”

Kerrin Rousset (2008) “One item you can’t miss is their signature Super Sandwich, the “Big-Pletzel,” which always has a place right up front, on top of the counter, impossible to miss as you enter the deli.  You have your choice of corned beef, pastrami or turkey, which gets layered with eggplant caviar, red pepper caviar, cucumbers, pickles and fresh tomato slices, all on one of their soft homemade onion and poppy seed rolls.  If you ask nicely, the women behind the counter will be more than happy to slice it in quarters and warm it up for you, which I do recommend.”

Dalloyau by Meg Zimbeck


This historic traiteur and pâtisserie invented the oft-imitated Opera Cake.

Practical information

Address: 101 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule (9)
Hours: Shop everyday 8:30am-9pm; Tea room Monday-Friday 8:30am-7:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am-7pm
Telephone: 01 42 99 90 00
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 5 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75004
Nearest transport: Bastille (1, 5, 8 )
Hours: Shop every day from 9am-9pm; Lounge 10:30am-7pm or later by reservation
Telephone: 01 48 87 89 88

Address: 69 rue de la Convention, 75015
Nearest transport: Boucicaut (8)
Hours: Shop every day 9am-8pm; Tea room every day 9:30am-7pm
Telephone: 0 1 45 77 84 27

Address: 63 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Nearest transport: Rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Every day 9am-8pm
Telephone: 01 45 49 95 30

Address: 2 place Edmond-Rostand, 75006
Nearest transport: Luxembourg (RER B)
Hours: Shop every day 9am-8:30pm; Tea room and terrace every day 9am-7:30pm
Telephone: 01 43 29 31 10

Address: 48-52 boulevard Haussmann, 75009
Nearest transport: Havre-Caumartin (3, 9)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 8:30am-9:30pm; Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 53 20 05 00

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) Ranked #3 in their test of the city’s best strawberry tarts.

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Comme j’avais méchamment égratigné sa religieuse de rêve (au chocolat et au café)…On l’a goûté en famille et le verdict fut unanime: belle présentation, élégante et brillante,pâte fraîche, sans doute un brin épaisse (mais c’est une pâte à chou sur pâte sucrée),crème pâtissière parfumée, onctueuse avec un goût net et franc de chocolat amer.”

Dorie Greenspan (2009) “Among the most fanciful cakes is this one from Dalloyau.  Dalloyau is most famous for its Gateau Opera, and this year the centuries-old pastry house has kept its connection to the stage and created La Prima Donna, a raspberry-vanilla-and-citrus cake dressed in mandarine meringue.”

Stéphane Henry

Stéphane Henry finished sixth in the 2009 Grand Prix de la Baguette.

Practical information

Address: 2 bis boulevard Morland, 75004
Nearest transport: Quai de la Rapée (5)
Telephone: 01 42 72 75 56

Reviews of interest

Best Baguette (Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris) 6th place in 2009.

Painrisien (2011) “Cette famille de boulangers tient l’une des seules échoppes de ce type dans le secteur, qui n’est pas particulièrement riche en activité commerçante… La baguette de tradition est d’excellent niveau, avec sa croûte bien croustillante, son façonnage élégant, tout en longueur (ce qui permet d’offrir un bon rapport mie/croûte) ainsi que sa belle saveur de froment. La mie affiche une couleur crème bien marquée et un bel alvéolage irrégulier.”

Comme à Lisbonne by Barbra Austin

Comme à Lisbonne

A charming, sliver of a shop, peddling prettily packaged Portuguese products, and pasteis de nata – the classic egg tarts found in Lisbon.

Practical information

Address: 37 rue du Roi du Sicile, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1) or Hôtel de Ville (1, 11)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 11am-7pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 07 61 23 42 30
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2013) “The pasteis, succulent custard tarts, are baked according to Victor’s mother’s secret recipe, while the coffee is prepared just as if you were in Lisbon, with Victor proudly telling everyone that the Portuguese are as coffee-mad as the Italians.”

Emerald Bond (2013) “The perfect place to rest tired feet after a hard day shopping in gay Marais – a little marble counter, a phenomenal custard tart, a suave Portugese man in a grandpa hat and a damn good espresso to boot.”

David Lebovitz (2012) “I could not stop thinking about that warm little quivering custard, nestled in a crispy tart shell…”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “…pâte feuilletée garnie d’une crème sucrée, tel un flan et saupoudrés de cannelle à la demande. Victor les cuit au fur et à mesure et vous les sert encore tièdes.”

Georges Larnicol

Larnicol is known for his whimsical chocolate centerpieces and sculptures, as well as his signature kouignettes, a miniature, deeply caramelized version of the classic kouign amann.

Practical information

Address: 132 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Every day, 9am-11pm
Telephone: 01 43 26 39 38

Additional locations

Address: 14 rue de Rivoli, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9am-6pm; closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 71 20 51

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2011) “There’s all sorts of candy around the shop which you can dig into, as well as the now-obligatory macarons of various colors…both natural and suspect…but I came for the Breton butter cakes…Verdict? They’re pretty darned good…”


This narrow shop assaults the senses with aromatic spices and shelves stacked mainly with pan-Mediterranean and Middle Eastern products, plus plenty of hard-to-find global groceries.

Practical information

Address: 30 rue François Miron, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1) or Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30am-1pm and 2:30-7pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 42 72 66 23

Carette patisserie photo Carette Facebook


A beautiful, old-fashioned pastry shop and tea salon, with privileged locations at Trocadero and the Place des Vosges.

Practical information

Address: 4 place du Trocadero, 75016
Nearest transport: Trocadero (6, 9)
Hours: Open every day, 8 a.m.-midnight
Telephone: 01 47 27 98 85
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 25 place des Vosges, 75004
Nearest transport: Chemin Vert (8) or Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day, 8 a.m.-11:30 p.m.
Telephone: 01 48 87 94 07

Reviews of interest 

Le Figaro (2014) # 7 madeleine in Paris

Travel + Leisure (2012) “Its éclair au chocolat was voted best in the city in 2007, and although Paris is rife with more well known purveyors of macaroons, to bite into a délice des framboises is to understand why this place remains a favorite among famously low-key habitués such as Philippe Starck.”

François Simon (2009) “102 € pour une salade, un millefeuille et deux cappuccinos, avant l’euro, on se serait étranglé de rire en appelant le patron. Bien sûr, beaucoup trop cher, vu la qualité.”

Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”




Mariage Fréres via Facebook

Mariage Fréres

A legendary tea seller and salon du thé.

Practical information

Address: 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1, 11)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Tea salon open 3 p.m.-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 42 72 28 11


Additional Locations

Address: 13 rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10) or Saint Michel (4)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Tea salon open 3 p.m.-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 40 51 82 50

Address: 260 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Ternes (2)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Tea salon open 3 p.m.-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 46 22 18 54

Address: 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 (Carousel du Louvre)
Nearest transport: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre (1, 7)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Tea salon open noon-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 40 20 18 54

Reviews of interest

NY Times (2011) “I have other favorite tea-related destinations in Paris: the no-fee, two-room “tea museum” on the second floor of the Mariage Frères tea salon in the Marais…”

David Lebovitz (2005) “Our rendez-vous was mid-afternoon, and the tea salon was calm and the servers were graceful and accommodating. I had a perfectly brewed pot of green Sencha tea along with a rather good wedge of tarte layered with fresh raspberries topped with a black teachiboust.”

Le Loir dans la Théière

This trés cozy brunch spot and tea salon is known for savory and sweet tarts, including a mile-high lemon meringue. Prepare to queue.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue des Rosiers, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1)
Hours: Every day, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.
Reservations: not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 72 90 61
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: French, brunch, desserts

View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Our best efforts were made to insure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it to parisbymouth@gmail.com 

Reviews of interest

  • Time Out (2013) “Its squishy sofas are the perfect complement to its comfort food: it specialises in baked goods, and the famed lemon meringue and chocolate fondant are divine. At weekends it’s packed out with tourists in search of brunch; long queues of people looking enviously at your plate, plus occasionally patchy service, can mar the experience.”

Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis

Practical information

Address: 55 quai de Bourbon, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Wednesday; open all other days, noon-11pm
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 54 02 59
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French – Brasserie
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday, continuous all-day service

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “this was the best choucroute I’d had a in a longtime, and the quality of the cooking was such that I’m planning to go back soon…”

John Talbott (2012) “The menu is classic…it’s fun, as good as 1953 gets and reasonable enough.”




Le Gaigne by John Talbott

Le Gaigne

Now closed (in July 2013). At this small, contemporary bistro near the Centre Pompidou, Chef Mickael Gaigner shows off his skills — honed in high end kitchens — at reasonable prices: Weekday lunches are priced at 17/23€ for two or three courses, and there’s a five-course dinner menu at 42€.

Practical information

Address: 12 rue Pecquay, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Now closed
Reservations: Now closed
Telephone: Now closed
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3512d82ab29283d1&ll=48.860293,2.356275&spn=0.006931,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Reviews of interest

Le Gaigne closed in July 2013

  • John Talbott (2012) “…a place we go back to time after time…”
  • John Talbott (2011) “…the food so good and the prices so right, what’s not to love…parsnip soup with an intruiging croquette containing an egg in the middle, with “oreille et pied de cochon à la sauge”… a “gougère aux escargots du pré de Mme Liège à la sauce soubise,” sounding much fancier but tasting pretty gutsy.”
  • John Talbott (2010) “There has been some negative chatter in the blogosphere about Le Gaigne which I have not and do not understand…”
  • Mark Bittman – NY Times (2009) “…charming, the kind of place I’d love to see more of….They seem to deal with everything effortlessly: the food is on time, it’s hot, it’s good and it’s interesting; the wine list is solid…”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2008) “Gaignon…has a brilliant way with fish. I had brill poached with thyme and served with new-season choucroute (sauerkraut) and a sautee of girolles…a perfectly balanced composition in terms of taste… royale of duck as a starter was sublime, and a friend who tried the rabbit stuffed with marinated peppers and garnished with tiny florets of romanesco (green cauliflower) was very happy, too.”
  • François Simon (date unknown) “…une cuisine pleine de sens…La tarte de langoustines et champignons d’automne est une sorte de petit hold-up, mains au-dessus de la tête, pas un mot, portable fermé, personne ne bouge. La tarte est présente sans trop plomber de son feuilletage. C’est excellent.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.




Chez Marianne

This mainstay of the Jewish quarter is popular for its platters of salads, breads, and lovely terrace, though many line up here for falafel, too.

Practical information

Address: 2 rue des Hospitaliéres St. Gervais, 75004
Nearest transport: St. Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 72 18 86
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Jewish
Special attributes: small plates, vegetarian options, outdoor dining, continuous all-day service, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2008) ” If you’re craving something other than French food, the middle eastern combination salads here offer a bit of a respite…”




Cupcakes Berko via cupcakesberko.com

Cupcakes Berko

The cupcake invasion of Paris is far from over; Berko now has two shops selling the things, along with cheesecake made with le Philadelphia.

Practical information

Address: 23 rue Rambuteau, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11:30am-8pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 40 29 02 44
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a47bf8fc204fde0b1&ll=48.883908,2.347984&spn=0.11085,0.306931&z=12 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our pastry shops here.

Additional Locations

Address: 31 rue Lepic, 75018
Nearest transport: Abbesses (12)
Hours: Tue-Sun 11:30 am-8 pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 42 62 94 12

Reviews of interest

  • Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Le spécialiste du genre à Paris se nomme Berko…On trouve là les dits « cupcakes » joliment parfumés, mais encore des cheesecakes, comme à Brooklyn, faite avec un « exquis Philadelphie cream cheese », des tartes salées et sucrées (framboises, noix de pécan…). A craquer sur place.”
  • Caroline Mignot (2010) ” …cette exposition de couleurs exaltées, saturées et de crèmes sirupeuses vaut le coup d’œil.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.



Le Dôme du Marais by John Talbott

Le Dôme du Marais

The biggest draw to this recently-revamped historic address might be the setting.

Practical information

Address: 53 bis rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 74 54 17
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a351092ea7409ac3e&ll=48.859139,2.358168&spn=0.006932,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, brasserie
Special attributes: Open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd: style hounds
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: romantic

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2012) “…it’s still stunning, but the food while good, is not.”
  • François Simon (2012) “Les plats. Eux aussi ont compris qu’il s’agissait de faire dans le joli et le bon. Mission accomplie avec un rendu de copie sans état d’âme ; le cahier des charges est bien rempli la daurade est royale, l’avocat king crabe est bien gaulé, mais le verre de Faugères est bien cher…”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “…quand par hasard l’idée vous revient et que vous filez déjeuner au Dôme du Marais, sous l’antique rotonde de lumière dorée (l’ancienne salle des ventes de Ma Tante), les goûts vous reviennent en bouche avant l’assiette.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.