Tag Archives: 75004

Les Caves du Marais

Crates and bottles are piled high in this bare bones shop, run for more than two decades by Jean-Jacques Bailly, who offers good prices on estate bottled wines from all over France.

Practical information

Address: 64 rue François Miron, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1) or Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30am-1pm and 4pm-8pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 42 78 54 64

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2010) “The proprietor, one Jean-Jacques Bailly, has been there 21 years, and in the Paris wine retail scene that amounts to a good head start on other caves in building the sorts of finicky, trust-based relationships with vignerons and agents that are necessary to stock the great names of wine…”

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Les Dessous de Paris

Les Dessous de Paris

The second in a series of pop-ups from Demory Paris (the first pop-up, called From Demory Paris, was across the street and scheduled to reopen after renovations sometime in May), this time with a focus on high-end bar food and hidden glamour. The small street-level area houses the kitchen and a pinball machine, downstairs and through a tunnel you’ll find live bands or DJs providing the soundtrack to the party.

Address: 57 rue Quincampoix, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Wednesday-Saturday 7:00pm-2:00am; Closed Sunday-Tuesday
Telephone: 06 84 12 10 59
Average price for beer: 3€ for demis, 5€ for pints
Number of taps: 3
Average price for food: 6-9€
Food Options: fish and chips, small plates
Website

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Berthillon Ice Cream  Paris Photo Barbra Austin

Berthillon

If you have only one ice cream cone in Paris, make sure it comes from Berthillon, the long-standing grande dame of glaces. The tea salon is worth a visit, too.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Monday, Closed Tuesday
Telephone: 01 43 54 31 61
Website

Reviews of interest

GQ (2013) “Fruits de saison, respect du produit et savoir-faire font de l’entreprise familiale l’un des meilleurs glaciers de Paris. Tous les week-ends, les mangeurs de glaces prennent leur gourmandise en patience et attendent sagement de pouvoir commander à leur tour, le fameux cornet glacé.”

Serious Eats (2012) “The fruit sorbets are decidedly potent but never too sweet—every year I’ve declared I’ve found a new favorite flavor…The scoops are tiny so you could easily do a double or triple with no regrets.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2012) “Il y avait moins de monde [en hiver], pas de queue, le service souriait. Et le joli et récent salon de bouche qui permet de prendre ses aises était quasi vide. Bref, c’est le moment de redécouvrir le plus célèbre, quoique finalement le moins connu des glaciers de Paris (il ferme toujours l’été!), au coeur de l’île Saint-Louis.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “The one and only, incontournable, classic…”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “No one knows how Berthillon does it (and they’re not telling), but they make ice cream with the deepest, truest flavors ever churned.”

Clotilde Dusoulier (2008) Recommended in Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris.

David Lebovitz (2007) “This most-famous of all Parisian glaciers makes what many consider the best ice cream in the world.

Additional Images

Berthillon Ice Cream Photo Barbra Austin

Berthillon Ice Cream  Paris Photo Barbra Austin

Berthillon Ice Cream  Paris Photo Barbra Austin

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Pozzetto Gelato Paris Photo Barbra Austin

Pozzetto

Head to Pozzetto for seriously good gelato, made daily in small batches.  And for an added bonus, some of the best espresso in Paris. Their second location, Pozzetto Salato, is a small Italian epicerie with salty treats and sandwiches to complement the sweets.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 39 rue Roi de Sicile, 75004
Nearest transport: St. Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 42 77 08 64
Website Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 16 rue Vielle du Temple, 75003
Nearest transport: Châtelet (1,4,7,11,14)

Reviews of interest

Lindsey Tramuta (2012) “…each of the 12 all-natural flavors prepared daily in small quantities are exceptional.  Pistachio, gianduja (chocolate and hazelnut) and fior di latte are Maura’s favorites and some of the most popular flavors.”

Barbra Austin (2009) “…12 flavors, all fairly traditional, made daily in small batches.”

Clotilde Dusoulier (2008) Recommended in Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris.

David Lebovitz (2007) “…simply the best gelato in Paris.”

Chrisoscope (2007) “Glaces toujours bonnes, à la limite de la fusion, mais juste ce qu’il faut…”

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Deliziefollie Gelato Paris Photo  atk1983 Flickr

Deliziefollie

The gelato comes in many colors at Deliziefollie, including some not found in nature.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Montorgeuil, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 40 26 06 00

Additional locations

Address: 26 rue Saint Andre des Arts, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint Michel (4, RER B, C)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 55 42 99 92

Reviews of interest

Chrisos (2007) “Loin d’être le paradis Deliziefollie…”

Photo via atk1983’s Flickr (Hiroshi Ataka)

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Gelati d'Alberto Paris Photo Gelati d'Alberto Facebook

Gelati d’Alberto

Your choice of flavors will be formed into a colorful rose shape at this popular gelato shop.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Mouffetard, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 77 11 44 55
Website

Additional locations

Address: 12 rue des Lombards, 75004
Nearest transport: Chatelet (1, 4, 7, 11, 14)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 77 11 44 55

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “Once you’ve tasted the classic flavours, try the Nutella, green tea or even the vodka Red Bull varieties. The more flavours you choose, the prettier your ice cream flower becomes. On a sunny day, rows of expectant ice cream buyers snake their way along Rue Mouffetard, so be prepared to queue.”

Figaroscope (2010) “Alberto, c’est le poète du froid, l’homme qui perpétue la tradition familiale et sculpte ses glaces italiennes à la spatule, leur donnant des formes de pétales de rose…

Photo courtesy of Gelati d’Alberto’s Facebook

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Mon Vieil Ami by Meg Zimbeck

Mon Vieil Ami

A contemporary bistro on the Ile Saint-Louis from noted chef Antoine Westermann, where vegetables rule.

Practical information

Address: 69 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 46 01 35
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Franck Pinay Rabaroust (2014) “Quand une enseigne commence à confondre quantité et qualité, la confiance fout le camp et c’est le début de la fin. C’est également donner la pire image de notre gastronomie – qui se veut amicale par-dessus le marché ! – à des touristes qui continuent de se faire avoir avec un menu en trois services facturé 47,50 euros. À ce tarif-la, ça fait chère l’assiette mal fagotée.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “..the menu was loaded with fresh, seasonal produce: meaty girolles mushrooms, new carrots and heirloom tomatoes, new potatoes and last-of-season asparagus. Avocados, first-of-season ratatouille, fresh white cocos blancs, zucchini and fennel all starred. I ended up feasting on  a stunning and satisfying all-vegetarian meal…”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “I’ve had such a deluge of negative remarks about the reservations process and the service at Mon Vieil Ami that I’ve decided it’s not a restaurant I feel comfortable sending people anymore, which is a shame, because the food is often delicious…”

Figaroscope (2010) “Les légumes continuent d’occuper une place prépondérante à la carte, version chic et fraîche avec une crème glacée de chou-fleur ou tendre et chaleureuse avec la cocotte de légumes de saison. On aime les jeux de textures, entre cru et cuit, du chef Frédéric Crochet, qui donne à ses légumes de l’exubérance…”

François Simon (2009) “Le service. C’est sans doute l’esprit alsacien de Westermann que l’on retrouve ici… L’assiette. J’avais commandé un canard rôti avec une choucroute caramélisée. C’était bon, copieux (servi dans une petite cocotte) mais on n’est pas forcé d’aimer le canard lorsqu’il est livré en gros morceaux…

John Talbott (2009) “Let’s dispense with the petty complaints – first: their shoving us, despite my reservation assurance, into that dreadful American-zone on the banquette…But to the food.  I had the 41 Euro menu, starting with a bone-dry home-made terrine with two garnishes (that I’ve had before and was moist and tasty).  OK…”

David Lebovitz (2008) ” The house specialty is vegetables, but the rest of the food is terrific…”

 

 

 

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moustache blanche beers

La Moustache Blanche

Hipster beer geekiness pervades this shop just off the Place de la Bastille, with a record player spinning the blues, a faux phone box housing the English beers, and a periodic table of beer styles on the wall.  Prices are very fair, and Guillaume, the friendly young owner is rightly proud of his ever-growing collection which boasts 500 beers from all over the world.  Featured prominently are craft beers from the United States and Northern Europe, Belgian Trappist and Abbey beers, and seasonally-appropriate selections.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 16, rue des Tournelles, 75004
Nearest transport: Bastille (1, 5, 8)
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 11:00am-8:30pm, Friday-Saturday 12:00pm-9:30pm, Sunday 2:00pm-8:00pm
Telephone: 01 75 57 15 06
Average price: 33cl bottles 2-5€
Notable brews: Anchor (USA), Fuller’s (England), De Molen (Netherlands), Fleurac (France)
Website

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caveabulles beer shop

La Cave à Bulles

Simon Thillou’s shop is the place to go for craft beer made in France.  He works with brewers all over the country to source his remarkable and impeccably curated collection of small-batch French beers.  There is a little shelf space set aside for brews from further afield, but these can mostly be found elsewhere for less money.  Focus on the regional French beers – if you don’t know where to start, Simon is more than happy to help find something to your taste, and he speaks English for those shy about their French beer vocabulary.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Quincampoix, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10:00am-2:00pm and 4pm-8:00pm; closed Sunday, Monday, and Wednesday morning
Telephone: 01 40 29 03 69
Average price: 75 cl bottles 4-8€
Notable brews: Volcelest (Ile-de-France), Brasserie Uberach (Alsace), Saint Rieul (Picardie), Oc Ale (Midi-Pyrénées)
Website

Additional reviews

La Cave à Bulles page on Beer Advocate

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Pralus

This Roanne-based shop is known for their bean-to-bar chocolate tablets – packaged in unmistakable, multicolored stacks – and Praluline, a praline-studded brioche.

Practical information

Address: 35 rue Rambuteau, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-7:30pm; Sunday, 10am-7pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 48 04 05 05
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

L’Express (2011) “On connaît la passion de ce grand artisan, qui réalise son propre chocolat et a planté des cacaoyers sur l’île de Madagascar. On la goûte avec délice aussi. Depuis les nobles ganaches, onctueuses bombes de cacao, jusqu’au praliné rustique et savoureux, en reprenant un peu de cette orangette revisitée qui fait tourner toutes les têtes, ravissante et admirablement équilibrée.”

Paris Patisseries (2011) “So, yes, all things considered, I would definitely recommend Pralus’s Chuao. What it lacks in magic, it makes up for in pure sophistication.”

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La Caféothèque Photo Barbra Austin

La Caféothèque

Beans are roasted right before your eyes at this excellent coffee boutique. Take a bag home, or take a seat in the back room and order a drink from the expert barista.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue de la Hôtel de Ville, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Open every day, 9:30am-7:30pm
Telephone: 01 53 01 83 84
Website

Reviews of interest

Lindsey Tramuta-Morel (2013) “Arguably the pioneer of the coffee movement in Paris; an artisanal roaster/coffee shop located a few blocks from Hôtel de Ville. The beans are sourced from all over the world and roasted in front of you.”

David Lebovitz (2011) “I’ve pretty much said everything I could about the “coffee issue” in Paris here*, but one place that’s trying to buck the trend is La Caféothèque, a shop and café that roasts coffee beans from all over the world. It’s also one of the (very) few places in Paris where I’ve seen a person preparing café express (espresso) correctly…”

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Sacha Finkelsztajn

Since 1946, this bakery and traiteur has been offering Jewish and eastern European specialties, from cheesecake and strudel to pastrami, to a loyal clientele in the heart of the Marais.

Practical information

Address: 27 rue des Rosiers, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Wednesday-Monday 10am-7pm; Closed Tuesday
Telephone: 01 42 72 78 91
Website

Reviews of interest 

Emma Bentley (2012) “Here you can find every sort of Jewish, Polish, Eastern European pastry, bread or pie under the sun… Brace yourself for a certain level Eastern European service before you step foot inside. The man behind the cash desk (yes, you pick what you want, you take your ticket to the desk, you pay, then go back to get what you ordered) barked at me in a manner that made your average French waiter or waitress look like a teddy bear in comparison!”

Kerrin Rousset (2008) “One item you can’t miss is their signature Super Sandwich, the “Big-Pletzel,” which always has a place right up front, on top of the counter, impossible to miss as you enter the deli.  You have your choice of corned beef, pastrami or turkey, which gets layered with eggplant caviar, red pepper caviar, cucumbers, pickles and fresh tomato slices, all on one of their soft homemade onion and poppy seed rolls.  If you ask nicely, the women behind the counter will be more than happy to slice it in quarters and warm it up for you, which I do recommend.”

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Dalloyau by Meg Zimbeck

Dalloyau

This historic traiteur and pâtisserie invented the oft-imitated Opera Cake.

Practical information

Address: 101 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule (9)
Hours: Shop everyday 8:30am-9pm; Tea room Monday-Friday 8:30am-7:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am-7pm
Telephone: 01 42 99 90 00
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 5 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75004
Nearest transport: Bastille (1, 5, 8 )
Hours: Shop every day from 9am-9pm; Lounge 10:30am-7pm or later by reservation
Telephone: 01 48 87 89 88

Address: 69 rue de la Convention, 75015
Nearest transport: Boucicaut (8)
Hours: Shop every day 9am-8pm; Tea room every day 9:30am-7pm
Telephone: 0 1 45 77 84 27

Address: 63 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Nearest transport: Rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Every day 9am-8pm
Telephone: 01 45 49 95 30

Address: 2 place Edmond-Rostand, 75006
Nearest transport: Luxembourg (RER B)
Hours: Shop every day 9am-8:30pm; Tea room and terrace every day 9am-7:30pm
Telephone: 01 43 29 31 10

Address: 48-52 boulevard Haussmann, 75009
Nearest transport: Havre-Caumartin (3, 9)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 8:30am-9:30pm; Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 53 20 05 00

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) Ranked #3 in their test of the city’s best strawberry tarts.

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Comme j’avais méchamment égratigné sa religieuse de rêve (au chocolat et au café)…On l’a goûté en famille et le verdict fut unanime: belle présentation, élégante et brillante,pâte fraîche, sans doute un brin épaisse (mais c’est une pâte à chou sur pâte sucrée),crème pâtissière parfumée, onctueuse avec un goût net et franc de chocolat amer.”

Dorie Greenspan (2009) “Among the most fanciful cakes is this one from Dalloyau.  Dalloyau is most famous for its Gateau Opera, and this year the centuries-old pastry house has kept its connection to the stage and created La Prima Donna, a raspberry-vanilla-and-citrus cake dressed in mandarine meringue.”

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Stéphane Henry

Stéphane Henry finished sixth in the 2009 Grand Prix de la Baguette.

Practical information

Address: 2 bis boulevard Morland, 75004
Nearest transport: Quai de la Rapée (5)
Telephone: 01 42 72 75 56

Reviews of interest

Best Baguette (Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris) 6th place in 2009.

Painrisien (2011) “Cette famille de boulangers tient l’une des seules échoppes de ce type dans le secteur, qui n’est pas particulièrement riche en activité commerçante… La baguette de tradition est d’excellent niveau, avec sa croûte bien croustillante, son façonnage élégant, tout en longueur (ce qui permet d’offrir un bon rapport mie/croûte) ainsi que sa belle saveur de froment. La mie affiche une couleur crème bien marquée et un bel alvéolage irrégulier.”

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Comme à Lisbonne by Barbra Austin

Comme à Lisbonne

A charming, sliver of a shop, peddling prettily packaged Portuguese products, and pasteis de nata – the classic egg tarts found in Lisbon.

Practical information

Address: 37 rue du Roi du Sicile, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1) or Hôtel de Ville (1, 11)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 11am-7pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 07 61 23 42 30
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2013) “The pasteis, succulent custard tarts, are baked according to Victor’s mother’s secret recipe, while the coffee is prepared just as if you were in Lisbon, with Victor proudly telling everyone that the Portuguese are as coffee-mad as the Italians.”

Emerald Bond (2013) “The perfect place to rest tired feet after a hard day shopping in gay Marais – a little marble counter, a phenomenal custard tart, a suave Portugese man in a grandpa hat and a damn good espresso to boot.”

David Lebovitz (2012) “I could not stop thinking about that warm little quivering custard, nestled in a crispy tart shell…”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “…pâte feuilletée garnie d’une crème sucrée, tel un flan et saupoudrés de cannelle à la demande. Victor les cuit au fur et à mesure et vous les sert encore tièdes.”

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eclair de genie box

L’Éclair de Génie

Edible artwork in the form of fancy flavored éclairs (and a few truffles, too).

Practical information

Address: 14 rue Pavée, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday 11am-7:30pm
Telephone: 01 42 77 85 11
Website

Additional Locations

Address: Gallerie Commerciale du Passy Plaza, 53 rue de Passy, 75016
Nearest transport: Passy (6)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday 10am-7:30pm
Telephone: 09 72 30 59 72

Reviews of interest

Lindsey Tramuta (2013) “By dint of crafting each éclair by hand, irregularities in the shells are noticeable at L’Atelier de l’Eclair and they’re fiercely proud of their artisanal approach, which I love. But Christophe Adam’s prowess in aesthetic, flavor and form trumps all.”

Camille Malmquist (2013) “All told, Christophe Adam’s éclairs are worth the elevated price.  They’re masterfully executed and the flavors are spot-on: clean distinct, and balanced.”

David Lebovitz (2013) “Pastry chef Christophe Adam prepares slightly smaller sized pastries that you’ll find at the typical corner bakery, but the flavors are intense and the decoration that first put me off (I’m a classicist) won me over because – well, they just tasted so good…I was wowed by Fraisier, an éclair filled with Iranian pistachio cream, orange flower water, and decorated with brilliant-red Gariguette strawberries. The éclairs also change seasonally, but I loved the Passion-framboise, filled with passion fruit, one of my favorite flavors that I can’t ever seem to get enough of.”

Emerald Bond (2013) “Ridiculously delicious works of art… The flavours of the éclairs change seasonally – although some stalwarts, like the marscapone and salted caramel butter, thankfully stick around throughout the year.  From the beautiful magenta coloured Rouge Baiser, to the bounty-reminiscent Coco Chocolat, and the chocoholics Feuille D’Automne to the zesty Citron Yuzu – there is an éclair to suit every palate.”

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Georges Larnicol

Larnicol is known for his whimsical chocolate centerpieces and sculptures, as well as his signature kouignettes, a miniature, deeply caramelized version of the classic kouign amann.

Practical information

Address: 132 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Every day, 9am-11pm
Telephone: 01 43 26 39 38
Website

Additional locations

Address: 14 rue de Rivoli, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9am-6pm; closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 71 20 51

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2011) “There’s all sorts of candy around the shop which you can dig into, as well as the now-obligatory macarons of various colors…both natural and suspect…but I came for the Breton butter cakes…Verdict? They’re pretty darned good…”

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Izraël

This narrow shop assaults the senses with aromatic spices and shelves stacked mainly with pan-Mediterranean and Middle Eastern products, plus plenty of hard-to-find global groceries.

Practical information

Address: 30 rue François Miron, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1) or Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30am-1pm and 2:30-7pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 42 72 66 23

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Carette patisserie photo Carette Facebook

Carette

A beautiful, old-fashioned pastry shop and tea salon, with privileged locations at Trocadero and the Place des Vosges.

Practical information

Address: 4 place du Trocadero, 75016
Nearest transport: Trocadero (6, 9)
Hours: Open every day, 8 a.m.-midnight
Telephone: 01 47 27 98 85
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 25 place des Vosges, 75004
Nearest transport: Chemin Vert (8) or Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day, 8 a.m.-11:30 p.m.
Telephone: 01 48 87 94 07

Reviews of interest 

Travel + Leisure (2012) “Its éclair au chocolat was voted best in the city in 2007, and although Paris is rife with more well known purveyors of macaroons, to bite into a délice des framboises is to understand why this place remains a favorite among famously low-key habitués such as Philippe Starck.”

François Simon (2009) “102 € pour une salade, un millefeuille et deux cappuccinos, avant l’euro, on se serait étranglé de rire en appelant le patron. Bien sûr, beaucoup trop cher, vu la qualité.”

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L’Alimentari

A minuscule trattoria in the heart of the Marais.

Practical information

Address: 6 rue des Ecouffes, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1)
Hours: Lunch & dinner Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations: book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 77 24 59
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Italian
Special attributes: Vegetarian options, open Monday

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2012) “Très convaincant, cette fricassée calmars/arctichauts, arrosée d’un trait d’une belle huile d’olive ardante…Des linguine en plein batifolage avec une super sauce tomate fraîche. Un goût de soleil, une touche de basilic, l’Italie dans sa vérité.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “une micro-trattoria plus disposée à soigner son décor en veine vintage qu’à surveiller l’al dente de la pasta… ici, comme souvent, au prétexte de l’Italie, la nonchalance des assiettes finit par agacer.”

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Isami Bulot by Food Snob

Isami

Since 1992, chef Katsuo Nakamura has been impressing Parisians with formidable skill and quiet rigor at this tiny Ile Saint-Louis sushi bar.

Practical information

Address: 4 quai d’Orléans, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Phone: 01 40 46 06 97
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Japanese / sushi
Special attributes: standout seafood

Reviews of interest

Bruno Verjus (2012) “sashimi et sushi comme nulle part ailleurs à Paris.”

Francois Simon (2011) “…un menu superbe de fraîcheur et découpe affinée…”

Le Fooding “En attendant, on s’amuse la bouche avec les starters (délicieux bulots et foie de lotte) avant de se lancer à la conquête de l’assiette dégustation…Et on n’est pas déçu. Grands crus de saké à prix fous.”

Figaroscope (2010) “…comment font-ils pour que leurs sushis et sashimis soient si bons ? ! Le poisson semble avoir tout juste quitté les flots et le riz est d’une délicatesse inouïe. Accueil aimable et décor évidemment minimaliste.”

Chrisoscope (2007) “Joli assortiment de sushis et maki en face. Ils étaient bons mais très wasabisés…De très bons produits, dommage qu’ils ne fassent pas un peu d’effort au niveau de l’accueil…”


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Maison David by John Talbott

Maison David

Squeeze into this tiny butcher shop for lunch and watch owner Michel Kalifa in action.

Practical information

Address: 6 rue des Ecouffes, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Monday; lunch other days, 1-3 p.m. Dinner available for private parties only.
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 42 78 15 76
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Jewish
Special attributes: nose to tail eating, good for solo dining, open Sunday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2011) “A tiny place, a short plexiglass counter with all sorts of meats and herring and gravlax… 4-5 spots on which to set a piece of coldcut, a glass of wine or a plate….Go? If you’re two, don’t mind standing, chatting and stuffing yourself with great meat – be my guest!”

Le Fooding (2011) “une irréductible et fantaisiste boucherie casher-friendly attend les carnassiers avec une formule ‘Dégustation-debout-au-comptoir-du-maître-artisan-boucher-charcutier.”

 

 

 

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L'Ambroisie 2 by Food Snob via Flickr

L’Ambroisie

Everything at L’Ambroisie, from the Place des Vosges setting to the piles of caviar to the prices, could be described as aristocratic. A Michelin three-star.

Practical Information

Address: 9 place des Vosges, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 78 51 45
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, haute cuisine
Special attributes: prix-fixe, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, excellent cheese course, renowned chef

Reviews of interest

Bruno Verjus (2012) “J’admire Bernard Pacaud pour son obsession de la qualité, son exigence dans le choix des fournisseurs et des produits qui honorent la haute cuisine française. A l’Ambroisie l’on croise, pour le service et pour les mets, tradition et élégance, classicisme et modernité. ”

Chrisoscope (2011) “C’était tellement exceptionnel, tellement unique que je suis bien incapable de dire combien ça vaut.”

Chrisoscope (2010) “…avec sa maitrise parfaite des grands classiques, sa salle plaisante, son service impeccable…ma table préférée en 2010…”

Food Snob (2009) “On the one hand, I was pretty sure I had eaten some of the most brilliant food of my life. On the other, I was not sure how much I had enjoyed it.”

Julot (2008) “…reserved to the happy few. Clearly, the restaurant is not even interested in making you the meal of your life. Not even a very special party. They’re focused on an aristocratic model of almost daily ‘you can’t afford it if you have to ask about the price’ food model.”

 

 

 

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Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”

 

 

 

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Le Métropolitain

Vintage Metro posters decorate the walls of this contemporary bistro, where a Top Chef finalist has taken over the stove.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue de Jouy, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7) or Saint Paul (1)
Hours: Monday-Friday, noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 09 81 20 37 38
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, bistro
Special attributes: open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: Quirky & playful
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011) “…une cuisine néoclassique bien campée…Pressé de joue de bœuf au foie gras : d’un classicisme revu en finesse. Pluma de porc ibérique, mousseline de carotte : franc, direct, au contact…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “Bruno’s terrine of shredded beef cheeks, foie gras and beets was beautifully made, and I loved my rich, delicately smoky-tasting royale de lard (silky bacon-flavored flan) topped with a coddled egg and foamy mushroom puree. This was contemporary French comfort food at its best…

 

 

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jaja fish

Jaja

From the team behind Glou comes Jaja, a contemporary bistro featuring top notch organic products, a serious wine list, airy urban decor, and…hot dogs. Open every day.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1, 11) or Saint Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 74 71 52
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2011) “she had what was advertised as a wok’d chicken…  with a timbale of rice (we both thought this was really boring) and I had a croustillante of pigs’ feet that was beyond boring. Summary: none of us finished our portions.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Avec l’intéressante formule déjeuner et les prix à la carte, je ne remets pas en cause les tarifs, mais simplement le contenu de l’assiette, peut-être aurait-il fallu s’en tenir au registre purement bistrotier? Vous savez qu’ici, je ne parle jamais ou presque des adresses qui m’ont déplu, si je parle de celle-ci, c’est parce-qu’elle m’a déçu.”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2011) “Quant au décor, au design soigné et chaleureux, on s’y sent bien, attendant avec impatience l’arrivée des beaux jours et la vie en plein air sur la terrasse de bois. Si on ajoute le service, juvénile aux petits oignons, et un menu déjeuner à 21 €, vous conviendrez avec moi que cette adresse ne manque pas de charme, loin de là. Alors, excusez-moi, j’y retourne!”

Philippe Toinard – A Nous Paris (2011) awarded 4/5 dots.

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “…une cave de première, militant les traverses de la vigne nature, les références classiques et les étiquettes classieuses…Crème de châtaignes, émulsion de lard fumé et poitrine crispy…Galette croustillante de pied de cochon, mesclun…Saint-marcellin plutôt que dessert…”

Le Fooding (2011) “du bio, de l’artisanal, du raisonné : un jambon iberico de Salamanque à grignoter comme ça, un rosbif d’aubrac purée à partager en amoureux affamés, une saucisse de morteau et du mont-d’or pour mettre dans le hot dog maison, du pain au sarrasin, du jambon aux herbes et du comté pour le croque-monsieur…”

 

 

 

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Mariage Fréres via Facebook

Mariage Fréres

A legendary tea seller and salon du thé.

Practical information

Address: 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1, 11)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Tea salon open 3 p.m.-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 42 72 28 11
Website

 

Additional Locations

Address: 13 rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10) or Saint Michel (4)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Tea salon open 3 p.m.-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 40 51 82 50

Address: 260 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Ternes (2)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Tea salon open 3 p.m.-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 46 22 18 54

Address: 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 (Carousel du Louvre)
Nearest transport: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre (1, 7)
Hours: Shop open every day, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Tea salon open noon-7 p.m.
Telephone: 01 40 20 18 54

Reviews of interest

NY Times (2011) “I have other favorite tea-related destinations in Paris: the no-fee, two-room “tea museum” on the second floor of the Mariage Frères tea salon in the Marais…”

David Lebovitz (2005) “Our rendez-vous was mid-afternoon, and the tea salon was calm and the servers were graceful and accommodating. I had a perfectly brewed pot of green Sencha tea along with a rather good wedge of tarte layered with fresh raspberries topped with a black teachiboust.”

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Le Loir dans la Théière

This trés cozy brunch spot and tea salon is known for savory and sweet tarts, including a mile-high lemon meringue. Prepare to queue.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue des Rosiers, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1)
Hours: Every day, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.
Reservations: not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 72 90 61
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: French, brunch, desserts


View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Our best efforts were made to insure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it to parisbymouth@gmail.com 

Reviews of interest

  • Time Out (2013) “Its squishy sofas are the perfect complement to its comfort food: it specialises in baked goods, and the famed lemon meringue and chocolate fondant are divine. At weekends it’s packed out with tourists in search of brunch; long queues of people looking enviously at your plate, plus occasionally patchy service, can mar the experience.”
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Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis

This classic brasserie has been in business since 1953, and is still run the same family.

Practical information

Address: 55 quai de Bourbon, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Wednesday; open all other days, noon-11pm
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 54 02 59
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French – Brasserie
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday, continuous all-day service

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “this was the best choucroute I’d had a in a longtime, and the quality of the cooking was such that I’m planning to go back soon…”

John Talbott (2012) “The menu is classic…it’s fun, as good as 1953 gets and reasonable enough.”

 

 

 

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