Food and wine pilgrims are willing to climb the hill for this Belleville institution. Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own brand of bistro cooking, sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. Her husband Philippe’s wine cellar is one of the best in town, with an emphasis on small independent producers and natural wines. Don’t expect a smile from him, or really anyone else working there, just be glad that this place exists. The lunch menu remains one of the best deals in town.