Wednesday November 20, 2013 (night before)
La Robe et le Palais (13 Rue des Lavandières Sainte-Opportune, 75001) Owner Olivier Schvirtz and sommelier Loic Mougene throw what is possibly Paris’ last remaining quality-conscious midnight-release party for Beaujolais Nouveau on Wednesday the 20th November. The multi-faceted event will run as follows:
- 16h-19h : Book signing by wine writer Michel Tolmer.
- 19h-22h : Normal restaurant service.
- 22h-00h : Special Beaujolais dinner, with a fixed menu of regional dishes. Beaujolais Nouveau wines saved from previous years will be served to accompany the dinner.
- 00h-2h : Party, in the probable attendance of many Beaujolais winemakers. Beaujolais Nouveau from Karim Vionnet, Jean-Claude Lapalu, France Gonzalvez, Xavier Benier. Music: Possibly.
Thursday November 21, 2013
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, 75005) Benjamin Courty and Corentin Cucillat are the latest owners of this historic natural wine bar in the 5ème, which has changed hands over the course of its 20 years in business, but has always remained a destination for magnificent wine and simple bistrot cuisine. A daube de boeuf will accompany the gypsy jazz and sought-after primeurs. Beaujo Nouveau by Guy Breton & Jean-Claude Lapalu plus vin primeur by Jean-François Nicq.
La Cave des Papilles (35 Rue Daguerre, 75014) Florian Aubertin, wine buyer at La Cave des Papilles, promises a suberb tasting from 4PM – 8:30PM. He aims to present vins primeurs from all the viticultural regions of France. Probable appearances by the winemakers involved. La Cave des Papilles, incidentally, offers among the best selections of natural wine in Paris. Beaujolais Nouveaux from Nicolas Testard, Jean Foillard, Jean-Claude Lapalu, plus other vins primeurs from Jo Landron (Loire), Olivier Lemasson (Loire), Jean-Christophe Comor, Marchel Richaud, Jean-François Nicq. Music: live jazz.
Le Repaire de Cartouche (8 Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75011) Legendarily intense chef-owner Rodolphe Paquin celebrates Beaujo Nouveau with gusto. Probable appearances by several winemakers involved. Beaujolais Nouveau from Karim Vionnet, Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton. Music: live band.
Le Garde Robe (41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001) Winemaker Jean-Claude Lalapu himself will be present, along with a barrel of his wine, and copious bowls of onion soup, at this popular natural wine bar by the Louvre. Beaujolais Nouveau by: Jean-Claude Lalaplu. Music: none.
Aux Tonneaux des Halles (28, rue Montorgeuil, 75001) Proprietor Patrick Fabre has been throwing what is reportedly Paris’ most rocking Beaujolais Nouveau event for 23 years straight at his dirt-simple terraced bistrot near Etienne Marcel. Probable appearances by all winemakers involved. I’m told it goes late. Beaujolais Nouveau from Marcel Joubert, Jean Foillard, and Georges Descombes. Music: Live jazz by Les Barriques Aux Rouges.
Other Notable Beaujolais Nouveau Events
La Pointe du Grouin (8 rue de Belzunce, 75010) Owner Thierry Breton – who also owns the adjacent restaurants Chez Michel and Chez Casimir – will be splitting a full barrel of Lapierre’s Beaujolais Nouveau between his three restaurants. 20€ per bottle, with food. Beaujolais Nouveau from Marcel Lapierre. Music: There’s a piano inside.
Caves Augé (116 boulevard Haussmann, 75008) The gorilla in the room of the Paris natural wine market, Caves Augé will present a mise en bouteille (botting) and tasting that will run from 11AM – 6PM. Winemakers will be present bottling direct from the barrel. Beaujolais Nouveau from Jean Foillard, plus vins primeurs from Eric Pfifferling (Rhône), Jean-François Nicq (Roussillon), Jean-Christophe Comor (Provence). Music: None.
La Buvette (67 rue Saint Maur, 75011) Winemaker Marcel Joubert will be present from 7pm onwards at Camille Fourmont’s bright, thimble-sized wine bar on rue Saint Maur. Beaujolais Nouveau from Marcel Joubert, Rémi Dufaitre. Music: None.
Coinstot Vino (26 passage des Panoramas, 75002) A special menu will be served. All Beaujolais Nouveau will be served from magnum. Beaujolais Nouveau from France Gonzalvez, Cyril Alonso, Raphael Champier, Karim Vionnet, Nicolas Testard. Music: A banjo and accordian combo.
Juveniles (47 rue de Richelieu, 75001) Beaujolais Nouveau from Pierre-Marie Chermette’s “Cuvée Tim,” specially selected by owner Tim Johnston. Music: None. Saucisse Lyonnnais will be served. Probable appearance by Pierre-Marie Chermette.
Le Bal Café (6 impasse de la Défense, 75018) Beaujolais Nouveau: Pierre-Marie Chermette’s “Cuvée Tim”. Taking reservations for a special Beaujolais-themed dinner this evening at 01 44 70 75 51. Music: none.
L’Entrée des Artistes (8 rue de Crussol, 75011) Beaujolais Nouveau from Michel Guignier (the one from Vauxrenard, not the one from Villié-Morgon) and Lilian Bauchat. Music: Probably the same classicist hip-hop as always.
Le Rubis (10 rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001) Proprietor Albert Prat, an almost comically hard-nosed restaurateur of the old school, drives down to Beaujolais at the last possible moment choose his Nouveau. Then he purchases the wine in bulk and bottles things back in Paris, displaying only the cru of the cuvée, not the winemaker. In my experience Prat’s selections can be hit or miss, but the atmosphere spilling out onto rue du Marché Saint-Honoré is unmistakably authentic. Plus, his Côte de Brouilly selection right now is what Kermit Lynch proudly calls the “benchmark” of the appellation – Château Thivin. Beaujolais Nouveau: TBA. Last year’s came from Domaine Duvernet, but this year he doens’t know. Music: none.
La Quincave (17 rue Bréa, 75006) Beaujo Nouveau from Karim Vionnet & Jean Foillard, plus vin primeur from Hervé Villemade (Loire). Music: “Probably.”
Les Pipos (2 rue de l’École Polytechnique, 75005) Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges Descombes & Jean-Claude Lapalu. Probable appearance by Georges Descombes. Music: Live band.
La Cave de Georges Duboeuf (9 rue Marbeuf, 75008) The famous négociant’s wine shop will be open from 8AM – 7PM, offering tastings and sales of various primeur cuvées, among them “La Cuvée de Georges Duboeuf.” I find even Duboeuf’s best cuvées potpourried and unpleasant. But the wine shop contains a few surprising treasures: for example, inexpensive back vintage bottles of Guy Bossard’s stunning biodynamic Muscadets.
Ma Cave de Fleury (77 impasse Saint-Denis, 75002) Beaujolais Nouveau from France Gonzalvez, Jean-Claude Lapalu. Music: Live fanfare band (French traditional music involving brass instruments.
La Cave du Daron (140 avenue Parmentier, 75011) Beaujolais Nouveau from Isabelle & Bruno Perraud. Music: None. Small plates will be served. Probable appearance by Isabelle & Bruno Perraud.
Legrand Filles et Fils (1 rue de la Banque, 75002) Beaujolais Nouveau from Pierre-Marie Chermette, and Caves Legrand’s house brand. Music: Accordion players from 12PM – 2:30PM and from 7PM – 8PM.
Le Vin de Julien (42 rue Condorcet, 75009) Beaujolais Nouveau from Christophe Pacalet, Isabelle et Bruno Perraud, plus Vin Primeur from Jo Landron (Loire). Music: None. Le Vin de Julien offers a primeur tasting and snacks from 6pm onwards.
Au Moulin à Vent (20 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005) This restaurant – named after one of Beaujolais’ ten crus – serves a special Beaujolais Nouveau dinner of regional dishes. Reservations necessary at 01 43 54 99 37. Beaujolais Nouveau from Christophe Pacalet. Music: Accordion players.
Le Siffleur de Ballons (34 rue de Citeaux, 75012) Sommelier-restaurateur Thierry Brumeau’s neighborhood natural wine bar will transform for the evening : all tables and chairs removed, with part-time server, part-time DJ Alexie spinning by the doors. Beaujolais Nouveau from Xavier Benier, plus vin Primeur from Jo Landron (Loire). Music: DJ.
BiBoVino (14 rue Poncelet, 75017) Beaujolais Nouveau and a visit from Jean Paul Brun at this shop specializing in quality box wine.
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