This fromagerie is a welcome addition in the 11th where there’s an abundance of quality restaurants, but a serious lack of places to buy great cheese. Don’t miss the fresh dairy bar by the door where you can buy fromage frais, ricotta, and housemade cervelle de canut (a tangy cheese dip from Lyon flavored with fresh herbs and shallots) in bulk. Clément Brossault did a Tour de France of fromage on his bicycle to meet and build relationships with artisanal cheese producers before he opened his beautiful shop near Goncourt. The trip paid off and the shop is stocked with a wide variety of competitively priced cheeses. Raw milk, which can be hard to find due to its short shelf life, is delivered here from Normandy twice weekly.
— Catherine Down, September 2015Read More »Fromagerie Goncourt
In the heart of the colorful rue Faubourg Saint-Denis, this full service traiteur has an excellent cheese department, and boasts an impressive collection of Champagnes, whiskies, and other spirits.
Laurent Dubois is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF), the highest designation for a cheesemonger and affineur in France. Especially strong in their selection of aged Comté, brebis from the Pyrenées, and small production chèvres. In the caves below the shop, Dubois ages a few cheeses well past the point where other affineurs (and the AOC system) are willing to go – a Sainte-Maure de Tourraine at 100 days, for example, and an extra old Fourme d’Ambert. In-house creations like Roquefort layered with quince paste and Camembert stuffed with marscapone and apples macerated in Calvados make for the perfect dessert.
This small fromager and affineur can sometimes get hidden by the all the hustle and bustle of market life just outside, but duck in. The quality is high, the service is friendly (and bilingual), and they will happily sous-vide (vacuum seal) your cheese for travel. Notable offerings include a wide selection of foreign cheeses (quite rare in Paris), goat milk yogurts, and a good variety of butters.