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Not Terrible Near the Sacré-Cœur

Montmartre is a neighborhood which, like all tourist centers, presents a challenge to anyone hoping to eat well. We can’t help you avoid the pickpockets around the Sacré-Cœur, but we can help you bypass the tourist trap eateries.

Walk-Ins Welcome

La Rallonge – A casual wine bar from Chef Geoffroy Maillard serving Spanish-ish small plates, just down the street from La Table d’Eugene. Don’t miss the risotto–elbow noodles with a creamy truffled mushroom sauce and served in a tiny Staub casserole.

Jeanne B – A cheerful clone of Jeanne A for the underserved Montmartre neighborhood – this casual eatery and take-out epicerie is open seven days a week with continuous service.

Faggio – Neapolitan pizza and natural wines at this trendy restaurant from one of the owners of L’Entrée des Artistes.

Miroir – A stylish bistro in the heart of Abbesses, they also run a no-reservations wine bar across the street, in case the resto is booked up.

Le Relais Gascon – What people mean when they talk about “the big salad place.” Pure sud-ouest kitsch.

Coquelicot – One of several great bakeries on rue des Abbesses, you can take your sandwich or savory tarte sur place at this charmer.

Gontran Cherrier – Forget baguettes and go for Cherrier’s squid-ink roll filled with gravlax, or a green arugula bun filled with seasonal vegetables. Or try one of his thin-crusted savory tarts.

Book A Few Days in Advance

La Table d’Eugène – This back-of-the-hill bistro is packed with both locals and New York Timesreading gastronauts.

Chamarré Montmartre – Antoine Heerah infuses haute French technique with flavors from his Ile-de-Maurice homeland. The terrace is where you want to be.

Le Coq Rico – Antoine Westermann’s poultry-focused table gives new meaning to upscale barnyard cooking.

Guilo Guilo – Reserve well in advance for a seat at the counter where you can watch Kyoto chef Eichi Edakuni prepare a unique tasting menu of modern Japanese cooking. 

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7 thoughts on “Not Terrible Near the Sacré-Cœur”

  1. I live in Montmartre for 3 years and am passionate about this district, in particular about restaurants. Many tricks-tourists mark out the mound, but a little hidden pearls are to be known!
    Upstairs, on East side of Sacré Coeur, you will find the best pizzas of the mound, in Babalou.
    ” The big 8 ” is more expensive, but it is a magnificent place to eat there well and well drink to it! Finally, a creperie has just opened ” on the road of Plouescat “, which is really worth seeing! Delicious pancakes, cosy atmosphere, high quality host. It’s a quite small place, reservation is recommended.

  2. Often wandering north fron the 9th, I would add one address to the list, le Café Qui Parle on rue Caulaincourt. Ambience chalereuse, never went wrong especially with great cabillaud but not just, for an addition très raisonnable. And that corner of Caulaincourt allows for a nice post-dinner stroll back to Abbesses…

  3. Love this list! I also like L’HÔTEL PARTICULIER (gorgeous secret garden), Restaurant Il Brigante for this awesome pizza and Restaurant Jour de Fête (chef is former of l’Arpege). Also Autumn is the time of the harvest in Montmartre which is very fun! Or Oct 5th there is an event @ Champagne Le Gallais where you can spend a Saturday hanging in the countryside, celerbating the harvest, eating a Michelin star lunch- a huge roasted pig, gourmet salad etc on a blanket surrounded by vines!

  4. Many thanks, we will try some spots during our next visist, hopefully soon.
    We stayed at a hotel in Montmartre in July and we had a fantastic dinner at “Chez Toinette” (20, Rue Germain Pilon). Excellent food, not expensive and a great host. It’s quite small, reservation is highly recommended. We’ll definitely go back there again.

  5. I lived in Monmartre for a while in 2011, and the best meal ever I had there was at L’Assiette, 78 Rue Labat. It is a small colourful restaurant run by a French woman and her Ukrainian husband, which serves French-East European fusion food — inventive, unusual, delicious. Kind service. Check it out.

  6. We had a good lunch at L’Eté en Pente Douce, 23 rue Muller. It’s on a small place down a steep staircase away from the hubub up the hill. Bright and cheerful. Sitting on the terrasse on a sunny spring afternoon was perfect. I recall enjoying vegetables…big salads, etc. Service was friendly and the house wine was fine.

  7. As a denizen of the 18th and long-time climber up the Mont in search of good food, let me add some thoughts:
    La Table d’Eugene is #1, for sure, and its next-door sib La RalLonge is pretty good too
    But I’d add several other never additions to the scene:
    Jeanne B.
    Sens Uniques
    Les Novices
    Lui L’Insolent
    And I’d caution about any and all of Antoine Heerah’s places (Chamarre Montmartre, Moulin de la Galette, Clocher de Montmartre and Antoine de Montmartre) which are highly inconsistent as well as tout folks off the Petit Trianon and Cheri Bebi, both of which it takes a real afficianado of the weird to appreciate. I have not been successful at Le Grand Huit (8) but friends have, go figure!
    Finally, while Guilo Guilo is Haute de Gamme Japanese, the nearby Enichi is more down to earth and reasonably priced.

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