Montmartre is a neighborhood which, like all tourist centers, presents a challenge to anyone hoping to eat well. We can’t help you avoid the pickpockets around the Sacré-Cœur, but we can help you bypass the tourist trap eateries.
La Rallonge – A casual wine bar from Chef Geoffroy Maillard serving Spanish-ish small plates, just down the street from La Table d’Eugene. Don’t miss the risotto–elbow noodles with a creamy truffled mushroom sauce and served in a tiny Staub casserole.
Le Bal Café – A great place to take little ones who can run around in the playground across the walkway while you drink a Pimm’s cup and dig into some seriously good neo-British cooking at this café/exhibition space on a quiet impasse.
Le Relais Gascon – What people mean when they talk about “the big salad place.” Pure sud-ouest kitsch.
Coquelicot – One of several great bakeries on rue des Abbesses, you can take your sandwich or savory tarte sur place at this charmer.
Gontran Cherrier – Forget baguettes and go for Cherrier’s squid-ink roll filled with gravlax, or a green arugula bun filled with seasonal vegetables. Or try one of his thin-crusted savory tarts.
Book A Few Days in Advance
Chamarré Montmartre – Antoine Heerah infuses haute French technique with flavors from his Ile-de-Maurice homeland. The terrace is where you want to be.
Le Coq Rico – Antoine Westermann’s poultry-focused table gives new meaning to upscale barnyard cooking.
Guilo Guilo – Reserve well in advance for a seat at the counter where you can watch Kyoto chef Eichi Edakuni prepare a unique tasting menu of modern Japanese cooking.