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Restaurant David Toutain in Paris 75007

Paris Restaurants Open on Monday

Paris on Monday can be a bit of a culinary ghost town (rivaled only by Sunday). We’ve put together this list – organized by neighborhood and whether you need a reservation – to help you hunt down the best bites on a night when most of the restaurant industry tends to shut down. Our absolute favorites are highlighted with a heart.


Walk-Ins Welcome

verjus wine barVerjus Bar à Vins

Verjus Bar à Vins – The small plates have big flavors at this tiny, no-reservations wine bar from the couple behind Hidden Kitchen. For something more formal, and with more seating, book the restaurant upstairs.

Le Garde-Robe – Natural wine, snacks to soak it up, rowdy crowds and dancing bartenders at lunch and dinner. One of the original natural wine hangouts in Paris.

Willi’s Wine Bar – Mark Williamson’s landmark wine bar turned 30 in 2010. It’s packed with suits from the Bourse at lunch, and an Anglo-heavy crowd in the evenings.

Kunitoraya – A favorite address for udon and rice bowls. Reservations are not accepted, so be prepared to queue for lunch and dinner unless you go early.

La Tour de Montlhéry – Chez Denise – The market at Les Halles is long gone, but its legacy is still in evidence at Chez Denise, an old-school, shoulder-to-shoulder, red-checked tablecloth classic. Open for lunch through ’til the wee hours.

Naritake – A dive of a ramen shop, where the signature is a fat-enriched broth. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Pirouette – Chef Tomy Gousset passed through the kitchens of Le Meurice and Daniel Bouloud (NYC) before opening this stunning restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles. Serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. Lunch and dinner.

 La Régalade – Saint Honoré – This second location of La Régalade has been full since chef Bruno Doucet opened the doors in spring of 2010. The formula (terrine + 3 classic courses for a prix fixe) has since been replicated at a third location in the 9th. Is it less special now that it’s a franchise? Some think so, but it remains a good bet in central Paris, especially on Mondays. Open for lunch and dinner.

Izakaya Issé – Issé has changed formats a few times over the years, and now it’s a “bistro à sake”, offering a menu of izakaya — small plates — for grazing while sipping something from the serious selection of sake. Open for lunch and dinner.

Kunitoraya 2- Slurp your udon in style at this new branch of the rue Sainte Anne classic, housed in a renovated brasserie. Menus range from 18€ at lunch to a hefty 70€ at night.

Pinxo – Sharing is encouraged at this contemporary, convivial, Basque-style tapas restaurant from Alain Dutournier. Open for lunch and dinner.

Camélia – Camélia by Thierry Marx, is the second restaurant in the new Mandarin Oriental, to his flagship Sur Mesur. Open all day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Macéo – The more elegant sibling of Willi’s Wine Bar.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Verjus – Upstairs is a tasting menu of bold, refined, contemporary American cooking using spectacular French ingredients. For a less expensive, small-plates redux, visit the wine bar downstairs.

Le-Meurice-Queues-de-langoustines-aux-agrumes-confits-by-Food-SnobLe Meurice

Le Meurice – This Michelin 3-star was helmed by Yannick Alleno until he moved on in 2013 after opening his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien. Alain Ducasse took the reigns in September 2013. Open for lunch and dinner.

La Dame de Pic – Anne-Sophie Pic, named in 2011 as “the world’s best female chef” for her three-star restaurant in Valence, opened a long-awaited Paris outpost. Working with Philippe Bousseton, the nose for perfumer Takasago, Pic creates three menus based upon fragrance profiles – vanille ambrée, iode & fleurs, and sous bois & épices.

Racines 2 – Now open: Racines, version 2.0, featuring the same product-driven cooking as the original, in a Philippe Starck-designed space.


Walk-Ins Welcome

 Frenchie Wine Bar – If you want a taste of Gregory Marchand’s cooking without the challenge of scoring a reservation at Frenchie, this is where to go. Be prepared to line up a half hour before it even opens if you want a seat.

Frenchie To Go – Now you can have Frenchie food for breakfast and lunch, too. This Anglo-inspired eatery features Reubens, fish and chips, sweet treats and one of the best beer lists we’ve seen in Paris.

Coinstot Vino – Guillaume Dupré runs this wine bar in the passage des Panoramas, serving a range of small plates for snackers, a few hot items for the hungry, and vins natures for the thirsty. Open for lunch, dinner and drinking.

Entre Deux Rives – A slick little dinette offering pho, bo bun and other Vietnamese favorites. Open for lunch and dinner.

Gyozas-at-Gyoza-Bar-by-Phyllis-FlickGyoza Bar

Gyoza Bar – A Japanese dumpling bar, from the Passage 53 team. Dinner only.

Hokkaido – A busy noodle bar near rue Sainte Anne, serving gyoza and ramen.

Legrand Filles et Fils – Lovely Legrand occupies an enviable place off the galerie Vivienne. Mainly a shop, there is a room with a bar and a few tables for a drink and a snack on the spot.

Fée Nature – Everything is organic at this Sentier lunch spot and tea salon that closes at 6pm.

Grillé – This might be the most pedigreed kebab you’ll ever eat: prepared by Le Chateaubriand alum Frédéric Peneau with meat from butcher Hugo Desnoyer, homemade spelt flatbread, and herbs from Annie Bertin. There aren’t any seats on-site, or even in the immediate vicinity, so be prepared to eat it on the go. Lunch only.

Il Campionissimo – This popular, prize-winning pizzeria has moved to a larger, pop-art space, with room for the whole family. Open for lunch and dinner.

La Bourse ou La Vie – A popular place for steak frites. Open for lunch and dinner.

Liza – Lebanese goes chic (et un peu cher) at Liza. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brongniart – This new location of Yannick Alleno’s popular bistro is one of our favorite new openings of 2013, featuring pedigreed local ingredients and updated classic recipes from the region around Paris. This location at the Bourse boasts a rillettes bar sells terrines and pâtés to go.

Saturne – Ingredient fetishists will appreciate Sven Chartier’s reverence for product, and devotees of natural wines will love Ewen Lemoigne’s list.

bistro volnayBistro Volnay

Bistro Volnay – Heavy silver, plush carpeting, and swanky art deco decor give the Volnay plenty of adult sophistication at both lunch and dinner.

Chez Georges – A popular, old school bistro serving classics like frisée au lardons, jambon persillée, escargot, and tarte tatin. Open for lunch and dinner.

Drouant – Facing a very pretty square, Drouant has been around since 1880. Now run by Antoine Westermann, the menu offers elegantly updated classics with an emphasis on seafood. Lunch and dinner.

Racines – There’s a touch of elegance to the product-driven, market cooking, served, as always, with natural wine, inside the city’s oldest covered passage. Open for lunch and dinner.

Les Jalles – Delphine Alcover and Magali Marian of Bistro Volnay have opened this chic, open-every-day bistro, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, and drinks in the bar upstairs.

Book Before You Buy Your Plane Ticket

Frenchie – Gregory Marchand’s contemporary market cooking has landed Frenchie on every must-go list, making reservations all but impossible.


Walk-Ins Welcome

huevos rancheros Candelaria Photo Catherine DownCandelaria

 Candelaria – With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar.

 Le Mary Celeste – Some of the best cocktails in the city  from the team behind Candelaria and Glass. On the food front, you can expect an eclectic menu of small plates from chef Haan Palcu-Chang, and a rotating cast of mostly wild oysters sold by the piece for 2-5€ during the season. Open for drinks and dinner.

Café Pinson – Fashionable health food freaks can get their fix at this (surprisingly?) popular vegan hangout. Open only for lunch.

Happy Nouilles – Hand made Chinese noodles, at very happy prices, for both lunch and dinner.

bobskitchenpbmBob’s Kitchen

Bob’s Kitchen – Lunch at Bob’s might include a smoothie green with wheatgrass, a plate-sized pancake, a spicy veggie burger, or a colorful curry. All natural, all organic. Open for breakfast, too.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery for lunch and dinner is available at all locations.

Al Taglio – It’s pizza by the kilo for lunch and dinner at this (vaguely) Roman-style spot. Bright lights, high stools and cheap wine by the carafe.

La Briciola – The pizzas are thin-crusted and fresh at this upper Marais spot.

Chez Omar – Go early, or be prepared to queue up with the masses at this perennially popular address for couscous.

Glou – Pedigreed and organic ingredients rule the menu, and pretty waitresses run the loft-like, two-level, room. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Café des Musées – The cooking is honest, the location is easy, and it’s open every day for lunch and dinner.

Les Enfants Rouges – Bistronomie from a young Japanese chef who trained under Yves Camdeborde near the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Open for lunch and dinner.

Grazie – Piping hot pies with fresh toppings, industrial loft décor, and cold cocktails from the full bar draw the branché masses to this pizza place between République and Bastille. Walk-ins will have an easier time sidling up to the bar.


Walk-Ins Welcome


Icho – Take a seat at the counter of this slick little sushi bar and watch chef Aroun Tanovan turn out pristine sashimi, riotous rolls of pink and green, and salads of seaweed, ginger, and yuzu. Dinner only.

Miznon – Another pita place for the Marais – this annex of an Israeli chain has far more creative offerings than your corner kebab stand. Notable options include grilled cauliflower, grilled sweet potato, and beef bourguignon. Open all day.

Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis – This classic brasserie has been in business since 1953, is open for lunch and dinner, and is still run by the same family.

Chez Marianne – This mainstay of the Jewish quarter is popular for its platters of salads, breads, and lovely terrace, though many line up here for falafel, too. Open all day.

L’As du Fallafel – Cheap, messy and seemingly obligatory – regularly cited as the best falafel in Paris. Open all day.

Le Métropolitain – Vintage Metro posters decorate the walls of this contemporary bistro, where a Top Chef finalist has taken over the stove. Open for lunch and dinner.

Jaja – From the team behind Glou comes Jaja, a contemporary bistro open for lunch and dinner that features top notch organic products, a serious wine list, airy urban decor, and… hot dogs.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Benoît – Open since 1912, this picture-postcard Paris bistro is part of the Ducasse group. Open for lunch and dinner.

L’Alimentari – A minuscule trattoria in the heart of the Marais.


Walk-Ins Welcome

 Café de la Nouvelle Mairie – This is a true café, open all day long starting at 8am. But it’s the natural wines and simple food that keep this place busy. It wouldn’t hurt to book at dinner.

 Terroir Parisien – Yannick Alleno (of Le Meurice) revives reasonably priced Parisian classics, with Ile de France ingredients, at this chic, airy bistro. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

dans les landesDans les Landes

Dans les Landes – Small plates from the Landes and Basque regions with well-priced wine and plenty of seating for larger groups. A few tables on the terrasse if the weather is nice.

Les Pâtes Vivantes – Hand-thrown noodles are stretched and cut before your eyes at this Chinese spot.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Christophe – Good ingredients in the hands of a passionate chef make this Latin Quarter address a favorite among food industry types who prioritize what’s on the plate over (non-existent) ambiance. Lunch and dinner.

Anahuacalli – A well-regarded Mexican address in the 5th, serving specialties like huitlacoche quesadillas, tortilla soup, mole and tamales. Dinner only.


Walk-Ins Welcome

 Fish (La Boissonnerie) – A left-bank haven for Anglos, wine lovers, and food writers on their day off. The bar area makes Fish ideal for solo diners, too. Open for lunch and dinner. If you walk in early enough, and are willing to sit at the bar, you might not need to book.

 L’Avant Comptoir - Crêpes up front and pork (Ibaïona) in the rear. It’s standing room only at Yves Camdeborde’s recently renovated tapas and wine bar, a hit since it opened in fall of 2009. Go during the off hours or be prepared to be get to know the person next to you very, very well. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Relais de L’Entrecôte – The choices here are steak and… really that’s it. Served with crisp fries in outrageous quantities, the only question is how you want it cooked. Reservations not accepted, so go early or be prepared to wait on the sidewalk.

L’Epi Dupin – L’Epi Dupin has been attracting a mix of loyal locals and tourists since it opened in 1995. Open for dinner.

Cosi – The sandwiches at this shop are made with a focaccia-like bread, right from the oven, with fresh fillings and plenty of vegetarian choices. You can eat on-site or take your sandwiches to go for lunch or dinner.

bread and roses parisBread & Roses

Bread & Roses – An English-accented bakery, lunch spot and tea salon featuring fresh tarts (savory and sweet), sandwiches, and lively salads, plus flaky scones, serious cheesecake, and a few grocery items. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks.

Eggs & Co. – Eggs rule the roost at this sunny spot in Saint-Germain, where brunch is not only for Sundays. Open from 10am-6pm.

La Rotonde – Currently closed through the end of March 2014 for renovations, this is a classic Montparnasse café and brasserie, serving standards like onion soup and steak tartare all day every day, along with oysters and other seafood in season. When it re-opens, it’s open all day.

Pizza Chic – Devotées love the artichoke pizza for lunch and dinner at this (very) sixth arrondissment address, which features a wood-burning oven, and contentious pricing. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

 Semilla – A contemporary bistro with an MOF chef in the open kitchen and a menu featuring an array of market-driven plates served in full or half portion. Space to eat at the bar and a fantastic wine list, which is what you’d expect from the team behind Fish, Cosi & La Dernière Goutte.

Josephine (Chez Dumonet) – Bring your appetite, and wallet, to this perennial favorite for old fashioned favorites like boeuf bourgignon, duck confit and gigot d’agneau. Open for lunch and dinner.

Chez Marcel – A new owner has resuscitated this old time bistro, serving updated Lyonnais classics. Open for lunch and dinner.

Allard – The sepia-toned dining room at this historic bistro remains the same, but Alain Ducasse and protégé Laëtitia Rouabah have taken over the kitchen and the accompanying carte of classic Burgundian dishes. Reviews are mixed. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Chardenoux des Près – A second outpost of Cyril Lignac’s Chardenoux. Prices are trés Saint-Germain. Open every day, lunch and dinner

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

lambLe Comptoir du Relais

Le Comptoir du Relais – Yves Camdeborde’s beloved bistro, once neo and now classic. Book months in advance for weeknight, no-choice dinner, but you can just queue up at lunch.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Café Constant – Christian Constant is the unofficial mayor of rue St. Dominique. His casual, no-reservations café is open all day, starting at 8 in the morning.

Les Cocottes – Though the breezy service and long counter are reminiscent of an American diner, they are not slinging hash at Christian Constant’s Les Cocottes. An easy, no-reservations choice for lunch and dinner in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

Book a Few Days in Advance

La Ferme Saint-Simon – This long-established restaurant near the Musée d’Orsay has been recently redesigned and updated – both in the kitchen and the dining room. Open for lunch and dinner.

La Laiterie Sainte-Clotilde – A down-to-earth bistro in a high rent neighborhood.

Les Fables de Fontaine – The specialty is seafood at this lovely rue St. Dominique address. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Cinq Mars – This perennially popular bistro serves classics like foie gras mi-cuit, steak tartare, and brandade de morue. Open for lunch and dinner.

La Fontaine de Mars – The Obamas ate here! The Obamas ate here! This perpetual favorite, a mainstay on the crowded rue Saint-Dominique, offers classic cooking with a southwestern inflection. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

Garance – Two Guillaumes (Guillaume Iskandar and Guillaume Muller) formerly of l’Arpège, have opened this much-praised modern bistro near the Esplanade des Invalides. Open for lunch and dinner.

Auguste – Gael Orieux’s menu at the polished and posh Auguste is all about seafood. Open for lunch and dinner.

Gaya – Pierre Gagnaire’s thoroughly modern seafood spot. Lunch and dinner.

Thoumieux – The Paris brasserie reinvented by Jean-François Piège. Open all day.

Pottoka – A tiny Basque joint from the duo behind Les Fables de la Fontaine. Open for lunch and dinner.

Lily Wang – The arrival of the bill may preclude any happy endings at this bordello-like Chinese address in the 7th. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

IMG_5213-e1390378651262David Toutain

Restaurant David Toutain – The meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain’s ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard. Lunch and dinner.

 L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon – The original L’Atelier, in what’s now a global empire. Known for a particular brand of relaxed fine dining, our contributors nonetheless voted it on to our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Note: Reservations are ONLY accepted for the first seatings of each service.  Otherwise, it’s first-come-first-served.

 L’Arpège – Alain Passard spins turnips into gold at this vegecentric (but not vegetarian) three star restaurant.

Jean-François Piège – Above bustling Thoumieux, his brasserie gourmande, Jean-François Piège has opened an intimate 20-seat showcase for his creative, modern French cooking. Michelin awarded 2 stars within months of his opening. Dinner only.

Le Jules Verne – Perched high in the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant was taken over by Ducasse, and his chef Pascal Féraud offers a menu of classics, befitting of the location (foie gras in many forms, escargots, tournedos de boeuf, Bresse chicken, savarin a l’Armagnac). One Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Le Mini Palais – Eric Fréchon of the Bristol is the consulting chef of this contemporary, chic brasserie. Book a table on the terrace when weather permits. Open every day, all day.

Garnier – This posh brasserie near the Gare St. Lazare is one to remember when you’re craving oysters. Or sole, or daurade, or rougets.

Charbon Rouge – From Wagyu beef to bacon burgers, this is classy carnivory for the golden triangle set. Included in our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Continuous service throughout the day.

Le Petit Chablisien – This old-guard bistro near Gare Saint Lazare has recently been updated, with new décor and a new chef. Lunch and dinner.

La Maison de l’Aubrac – This classic off the Champs-Elysées is open 24 hours a day, serving up burgers, tartare, and aged steaks that will please carnivores.

Bread & Roses – An English-accented bakery, lunch spot and tea salon featuring fresh tarts (savory and sweet), sandwiches, and lively salads, plus flaky scones, serious cheesecake, and a few grocery items. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks.

Book a Few Days in Advance

 Le Griffonier – A bastion of classic French food. Open only for lunch.

Napoleone – The latest addition from Chef Christian Etchebest (from the Cantines de la Cigaledu Troquet & du Troquet Dupleix) may not be his best, but it’s certainly better than most of what you’ll find along the Champs-Élysées. The neo-bistrot has a striking terrace, a beautiful Art Nouveau interior, a classic menu and is open late.

Neva Cuisine – Contemporary French cooking in a polished, airy room from a couple of Grande Cascade alums.

Les 110 de Taillevent – Taillevent has reconceived their second restaurant (formerly L’Angle du Faubourg) with a focus on wine pairings. There is a 44€ menu at lunch and dinner, but à la carte prices will put you in the 50-100€ range, before le vin.


Laurent – Luxury and history come together at Laurent, where you can dine in the former hunting lodge of Louis XIV or, better yet, at a table in the garden. Fine dining, fine setting.

Le 39V – A private elevator whisks you up to this rooftop address just off the Champs-Elysées with a small bar that offers a haven for solo diners, and a dining room that opens onto a leafy deck.

Caffé – A see-and-be-seen Italian table from Thierry Costes and Thierry Burlot.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

 L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon – Joël Robuchon’s empire expands again with the opening of another Atelier, this time on the Champs Elysées. This one is bigger than the left bank outpost, with an actual dining room in addition to the trademark counter seating. Open for lunch and dinner.

Epicure – The gastronomic table at Le Bristol hotel has been renamed, but revered chef Eric Frechon remains at the stove. The dining room has been renovated, too, offering a view onto the hotel gardens. Three Michelin stars. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Lazare – Open all day, seven days a week but requiring advance reservations and suffering, by many accounts, from atrocious service that undermines Eric Fréchon’s delicious Norman-inflected cooking.

Pierre Gagnaire – Pierre Gagnaire is widely regarded as one of the city’s most creative culinary wizards. Open for lunch and dinner.

Apicius – Operating for more than 25 years, John Pierre Vigato’s Apicius occupies a privileged space in a grand 19th century hotel particulier. Two Michelin stars. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Cinq – Haute cuisine in the George V hotel for breakfast, lunch or dinner.


IMG_6057Le Richer

Walk-Ins Welcome

Le Richer – An offshoot of one our absolute favorites L’Office, Le Richer was named as Le Fooding’s Best New Bistro for 2014. Stop by this former corner café at all hours of the day and night (sans reservation) for snacks, small plates, decent coffee, cocktails, or an evening meal.

Artisan – Frédéric Le Bordays is behind the bar and serving up excellent craft cocktails alongside a few simple small plates from chef Vanessa Krycève.

Bourgogne Sud – A regional table serving up Burgundian classics like jambon persillé, frog’s legs, escargots, and boeuf bourguignon. Open for lunch and dinner.

Chez Grenouille – An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds.

La Tute – This rustic bistro offers heart-stopping fare from the Pyrenees for lunch and dinner.

Les Pâtes Vivantes – Hand-thrown noodles are stretched and cut before your eyes at this Chinese spot.

Braisenville – Small plates rule at this mod address in the 9th. Lunch and dinner.

Hôtel Amour – Fashion types flock to to this boutique hotel for brunch or dinner in the secluded back garden.

La Maison Mère – The menu at this Franco-American mash-up includes not only Aubrac steaks, leeks vinaigrette and chocolate mousse, but a black Angus burger, pastrami and cheesecake, too. Retro decor, hipper-than-thou south Pigalle crowd.

Chartier – Do not, we repeat, do NOT go to Chartier for the food. Do go for the atmosphere (and prices) of a bygone era.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Le BAT – Take a seat around the large central bar à tapas (and tartares) where Yariv Berrebi, formerly of KGB, is speedily turning out reasonably priced, well-executed, fusion-y small plates in a gastronomic dead zone. Open for lunch and dinner.

Bistrot la Bruyère – A good example of bistronomie cuisine at fair prices in the Pigalle neighborhood.

Encore – Brand-name suppliers (Joël Thiebault, Quatrehommes, Annie Bertin, Hugo Desnoyers, Christophe Vasseur, Terroirs d’Avenir) and natural wines are the backbone of this trend-heavy, but pleasant, modern French bistro helmed by a young Japanese chef.

Cul de Poule – Good ingredients, simple prep, cool atmosphere and great prices make Cul de Poule the butt to beat.

Les Canailles – This bistro gives the classics a jolt of freshness.

La Régalade Conservatoire – Classic bistro fare like house-made terrine, pork belly with lentils, sea bream with fennel, rice pudding, and a Grand Marnier soufflé. Affordably priced with prix-fixe menus at lunch and dinner.


L’Office – Unfussy, contemporary bistro cooking, from a pair of American cooks. Lunch and dinner.

Le Garde Temps – A contemporary bistro from Benoît Gaulthier of Le Grand Pan.

Les Coulisses – A neighborhood bistro in the heart of the 9th, open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Caillebotte – A modern French offshoot of the beloved and hard to book bistro Le Pantruche. Open for lunch and dinner.

Ito – Seasonal Japanese tapas for the style conscious at this immaculate izakaya. Set menus are available for three tapas (€19), four (€25), or ten (€65). A well-stocked bar of Japanese whiskey and saké only adds to the fun. Open only for dinner.

Le Pantruche – Franck Baranger’s modern bistro near Pigalle is turning out dishes like celery root soup, oyster tartare, and a standout côte de cochon.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Kouign-Amann-at-La-Pointe-du-GroinLa Pointe du Grouin

La Pointe du Grouin – Named for a pig’s snout (and not its other end), this dirt-cheap Breton wine bar is sandwiched between Thierry Breton’s two other eateries Chez Michel and Chez Casimir.  Don’t worry if you don’t understand the system–it’s not clear that there is one. Just sidle up to the bar, let them know how hungry you are, and wait for the small plates to roll out. Expect hearty regional fare at lunch and dinner.

Chez Michel – This Breton bistrominique near the Gare du Nord serves a four course feast featuring dishes that are baked in a massive dining room oven. Open for lunch and dinner.

 Chez Casimir – This bustling annex of Chez Michel offers hearty seasonal cooking and a heavy dose of old Paris charm. Open weekdays for lunch and dinner

Le Verre Volé sur Mer – a new seafood-oriented small plates place just down the street from the original stolen glass. Lunch only (no reservations) on Monday, with a focus on bento.

Big Fernand – Get in line for juicy burgers, made with French ingredients and cooked by an enthusiastic, plaid-clad crew of mustachoied men. Open for lunch and dinner.

Urfa Dürüm – No ordinary kebab joint, the bread at this Kurdish sandwich shop is made before your eyes, split and filled with lamb, beef, or chicken that’s been grilled to order, garnished simply with a few greens, red onion, sliced tomato and herbs.

Le Cambodge – Where bobos go for bo bun. Go early or be ready to queue. Open for lunch and dinner.

La Taverne de Zhao – Cheap and cheerful cooking for lunch and dinner from the Shaanxi province, courtesy of Zhao, who hails from Xi’an. Get the pork-filled flatbread.

bobssammyBob’s Juice Bar

Bob’s Juice Bar – Bob’s is the place to detox with fresh juices, veggie sandwiches on homemade bagels, soups and salads. Open for breakfast and lunch.

Krishna Bhavan – The vegetarian Tamil cooking at Krishna Bhavan is generous, aromatic, colorful, and cheap. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Nanashi – Colorful, Japanese-inflected salads, soups, and small plates, as well as a decidedly non-Japanese coffee cream tart, courtesy of a Rose Bakery alum. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks.

Le Petit Cambodge – It’s all bo bun, all the time at this airy annex to the heavily trafficked Le Cambodge. Lunch and dinner.

Saravanaa Bhavan – Before getting on the Eurostar, stop for pan-Indian vegetarian fare in this bright, packed hall, part of an international chain.

I Cugini – Pizza and pasta, in a cool corner space with sidewalk seating.

Maria Luisa – A popular one for pizza near the canal, with outdoor seating. Lunch and dinner.

Piccoli Cugini – This new pizzeria is the little cousin of I Cugini, also in the 10th. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

vivant tableVivant Table

Vivant Table – Pierre Jancou relaunched then sold Vivant Table to the owners of Racines. Ambitious menus at both lunch and dinner accompanied by all-natural wines.

Le Verre Volé – A relaxed hole-in-the-wall near the Canal where you can buy a bottle from the shelf and share a cheese plate, some boudin noir, or octopus carpaccio.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Le Conservatoire de Cédric Casanova – Round up your friends and book weeks in advance for a Sicilian “picnic” in olive oil impresario Cédric Casanova’s new épicerie. Minimum five people, eight max, 30€ per tête.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Al Taglio – It’s pizza by the kilo for lunch and dinner at this (vaguely) Roman-style spot. Bright lights, high stools and cheap wine by the carafe.

CheZaline – Delphine Zampetti, recently of Le Verre Volé, has opened this bright & tiny spot, serving sandwiches, salads, and plats du jour for under 10€, to stay or to go. Lunch only.

Jeanne A – This eat-in epicerie and wine shop from the owners of the classic Astier offers classic comfort food, to stay or to go, at reasonable prices.

À La Renaissance – Great natural wines by the glass, fresh well-prepared food, and congenial service at this simple bistro near Bastille.

photo (39)Deux Fois Plus de Piment


Deux Fois Plus de Piment – The place for pepper-laden Chinese fare. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Chardenoux – Celebrity chef Cyril Lignac took over this historic bistro in 2008. Open for lunch and dinner.

Al Taglio – It’s pizza by the kilo for lunch and dinner at this (vaguely) Roman-style spot. Bright lights, high stools and cheap wine by the carafe.

Soya – In the airy, minimally decorated dining room at Soya, you’ll find the usual vegetarian suspects (salads, curries, savory tarts, soy in all its forms), and a thoughtful wine list.

Astier – This classic, checkered tablecloth bistro is famous for its cheese tray.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Come a Casa – A tiny gem of a restaurant with an even tinier menu that changes each day. The warm welcome and trilingual service is Italian hospitality at its finest. Lunch and dinner.

 Le 6 Paul Bert – Just around the corner from sister spot Bistrot Paul Bert, the restaurant is a world apart in terms of cuisine. Expect small and modern plates (shaved vegetables, raw and marinated proteins, creative use of dairy) that have more in common with Le Dauphin and Au Passage than a classic Paris bistro. Dinner only.

 Au Passage – Small plates range from the standard charcuterie and now-obligatory burrata to more light and creative fare, based on great products from the likes of Terroirs d’Avenir and Joël Thiébault. The vibe is relaxed, the prices are right, and the wines are natural. Open for lunch and dinner.

floraL’Auberge Flora

L’Auberge Flora – Flora herself does the cooking at this urban inn, offering a range of shareable small plates, or a heftier menu (at higher prices). Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Sot-l’y-Laisse – This longstanding neighborhood bistro has a new lease on life thanks to Eiji Doihara, a Japanese chef with a classical French resumé.

La Pulperia – This Argentinian restaurant from Fernando de Tomaso could more accurately be called a bifteckeria, given the number and size of steak offerings on their menu. Expect giant portions, plenty of delicious chimichurri, and a good list (mostly French, surprisingly) wines. Open for dinner only.

Book Before You Book Your Plane Ticket

 Septime – Book well in advance, and then look forward to Bertrand Grébaut’s beautiful, seasonal Michelin starred cooking, pristine ingredients, and a fine list of natural wines to match. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Café Cartouche – This is the second address from Rodolphe Paquin of Le Repaire de Cartouche.

Table – Writer Bruno Verjus‘ chic restaurant features a limited menu of expensive but excellently sourced meat, fish, and produce that is roasted simply on a spit.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Pho 14 – It’s easy to find Pho 14. Just look for the line. Open every day from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Au Petit Marguery – A delightfully unmodernized table, especially good in game season, when you’ll find roast partridge, grouse, wild duck, and lièvre à la royale. Open for lunch and dinner.

Les Delices de Shandong – A well-regarded Chinese table, run by a Qingdao native, specializing in the cuisine of the Shandong province, in eastern China. Open for lunch and dinner.

Lao Lane Xang 2 – A much-loved address for Laotian, Vietnamese, and Thai specialties. Open for lunch and dinner.

Likaf0 – A favorite for authentic Cantonese cooking.


Tricotin – A bustling Chinese canteen, known especially for dim sum.

Book a Few Days in Advance

L’Auberge du Roi Gradlon – Hearty yet refined Breton cooking in an upscale setting from Nicolas Castelet, the chef behind L’Auberge du 15.

Simone – An inventive neo-bistro with open kitchen, outdoor terrace, and well-priced, exclusively natural wines from their neighboring cave à vin. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

La Cantine du Troquet – Arrive early (doors open at 7pm) to avoid a wait at this casual, no-reservations bistro run by chef Christian Etchebest.

Josselin-by-Meg-ZimbeckCrêperie Josselin

 Crêperie Josselin – The city’s most buttery, authentic crêpes served in an old-school dining room full of dark wood and Breton lace.

Le Dôme – Le Dôme, with its sparkling platters of fruits de mer, remains an address for power lunches and tourists looking to rub shoulders with Hemingway’s ghost while getting their fill of zinc and iodine. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Bistrot du Dôme – The smaller sibling of the grand brasserie Le Dôme, just around the corner. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Le Severo – Meat lovers, meet Le Severo, where former butcher William Bernet offers a legendary tartare, honest-to-goodness aged steaks (surprisingly rare in Paris), fat frites, and a great wine list. The salads are often overlooked but quite good, too. Be prepared to have your meat served rare unless you give advance notice.  Open for lunch and dinner.

La Cerisaie – Closet-sized La Cerisaie serves southwestern cuisine. Foie gras abounds.

La-Regalade-dorade-by-Meg-ZimbeckLa Régalade

La Régalade – You can’t talk about “la bistronomie” without mentioning La Régalade. Open for dinner only.

Le Cornichon – Here you’ll find robust, seasonal bistro cooking from a Chez l’Ami Jean alum. Lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Le Grand Pan – Benoit Gauthier’s Le Grand Pan unfussily and deliciously serves up superb meats and market-fresh vegetables.

Razor-clamsLa Cantine du Troquet Dupleix

 La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix – Lusty Basque fare, affordably priced. Arrive early (doors open at 7pm) to avoid a wait at this casual, no-reservations bistro run by chef Christian Etchebest which is only open for dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Le Pario – Modern French food from Brazilian chef Eduardo Jacinto, who trained under Christian Constant at Le Violin d’Ingres. Open for lunch and dinner.

Axuria – A contemporary gastro-bistro, with an emphasis on fish. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

Le Caisse Noix – With its old-timey decor and generous cooking (think braised beef cheeks and ile flottante), you can add it to the 15th’s already lengthy roster of solid bistros.

Jadis – Forgotten dishes are given new life at Jadis, where old recipes meet technical rigor and today’s best ingredients. Lunch and dinner.

Le Marcab – The room feels posh, but the prices are reasonable at Le Marcab. Open every day.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Ciel de Paris – Reopened with a sleek new design, a table at this resto on the 56th floor of the Tour Montparnasse affords sweeping views over Paris.


Book a Few Days in Advance

Chez Géraud – Classic, unfussy comfort food from Ducasse alum Gabriel Grapin at this warm and inviting bistro in an old and moneyed part of town.

L’Atelier Vivanda – After opening his eponymous restaurant in 2011, Akrame Benallal is back with a second offering. This time it’s all about the meat, and his wallet-friendly prix-fixe includes a starter, a choice of meat (Black Angus beef, suckling lamb, Challans poultry), a side of potato (grilled, Dauphinois, galette) and a classic dessert.

Les Tablettes – In the old La Table de Joël Robuchon location, Les Tablettes reopened with a new chef (Jean-Louis Nomicos) and a pop attitude. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

 Akrame – Gagnaire- and Adria-alum Akrame Benallal resurfaced with this eponymous restaurant in the 16th, serving globally-influenced cooking in a no-choice menu format. The restaurant was awarded 2 Michelin stars in 2014. Open for lunch and dinner.

LiLi - Cantonese cuisine in a luxe setting at the recently opened Hotel Peninsula Paris. Former Top Chef contestant Jean-Edern Hurstel is almost exclusively using high quality French ingredients.

La Grande Cascade – This Michelin one-star is in a grand pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne for lunch and dinner.

Shang Palace – Haute Cantonese cooking in Paris. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Le Crabe Marteau – Pretend you’re in Brest as you hammer away at fresh crab, oysters, and other shellfish at this seafood shack in the 17th. Last minute bookings are usually okay. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance


Coretta – A trio of restaurateurs including Beatriz Gonzalez and Matthieu Marcant of Neva and chef Jean-François Pataleon of L’Affable have combined forces at this minimalist and modern French restaurant overlooking the Parc Martin Luther King.

Roca – A highly praised neo-bistro from Le Richer alum Alexandre Giesbert who presents fresh products creatively with a slightly international bent. Open for lunch and dinner.

L’Envie du Jour – A new team has renovated the space that used to be Bigarrade and are turning out fresh, seasonal produce before your eyes in a wide open kitchen.

Agapé Bis – An upmarket bistro from the team behind Agapé and Agapé substance. A new chef arrived in May of 2011. Open for lunch and dinner.

La Fourchette du Printemps – The setting is no-frills but the food is refined at this small bistro on the edge of the 17th, which earned one Michelin star in 2011.

Les Fougères – Offering modern French cooking in a lovely 30-seat dining room, Les Fougères manages to be elegant without being stuffy. Open for lunch and dinner.

Rech – This seafood restaurant Rech, around since 1925, is now part of the Alain Ducasse bistro collection.


Walk-Ins Welcome

La Cantine de la Cigale – Warm, welcoming and well-priced. The new bistro from Christian Etchebest follows the model of his other cantines, La Cantine du Troquet and La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix; this time, in association with the concert venue La Cigale. Open for lunch and dinner.

Jeanne B – A cheerful clone of Jeanne A for the underserved Montmartre neighborhood – this casual eatery and take-out épicerie is open seven days a week with continuous service. Continuous service all day.

cheri1-e1391353016401Chéri Bibi

Chéri Bibi – An arty haven on the east side of Sacre-Coeur. Flea-market decor, traditional French cooking and easy prices. Last minute bookings usually okay. Dinner only.

Le Coq Rico – It’s all about the bird at Le Coq Rico. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Petit Trianon – The menu at Le Petit Trianon is typical café and brasserie fare: Croques monsieur et madame, salads, and tartines. Open 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. every day, continuously.

La Rallonge – A casual wine bar from Chef Geoffroy Maillard serving Spanish-ish small plates, just down the street from La Table d’Eugene. Don’t miss the risotto–elbow noodles with a creamy truffled mushroom sauce and served in a tiny Staub casserole.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery for lunch and dinner is available at all locations.

Marcel – Another brunch spot with an Anglo accent, in this case both British (porridge, scones, an English breakfast) and American (fluffy blueberry pancakes, a BLT).

Café Burq – This funky Montmartre bistro is open late. Open for dinner only, last minute bookings usually okay.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Il Brigante – The kitchen and dining room are one and the same at Il Brigante where a Calabrian pizzaiolo is turning out masterful cracker-crusted pizzas. Try the Carboneri with a runny egg, bufala mozzarella, pecorino and a sprinkling of black pepper. Pizzas available to go, too.

Chamarré Montmartre – Chef Antoine Heerah draws from the flavors and ingredients of his native Mauritius — and all around the Indian ocean — and fuses them with French technique.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Au Boeuf Couronné – Meat is king at Au Boeuf Couronné, a restaurant across the street from the Parc de la Villette (previous site of the Paris slaughterhouse). It’s a beautiful old brasserie and a reliable place (open every day) for steak lovers in search of a slab. Open for lunch and dinner.


Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Roseval – Young chefs Michael Greenwold and Simone Tondo worked previously at Le Chateaubriand and Rino, and the influence of those kitchens can be felt at their joint venture in Ménilmontant. Modern French  cooking can be found throughout the no-choice menu for 40€. Consider springing for the wine pairings  – there’s a very interesting wine list with an emphasis on les naturels. There’s an insider (but not exclusive) feeling here in the bare bones dining room that’s enlivened by a very fashionable young clientele in a corner of Paris ignored by most tourists.

Design by Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku

Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée

Alain Ducasse’s flagship at the Plaza Athénée remains one of the bastions of French gastronomy. Since autumn 2014, the restaurant has reoriented its cuisine around fish, cereals and vegetables.

Practical information

Address: 25 avenue Montaigne, 75008
Nearest transport: Alma-Marceau (9)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Thursday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 53 67 65 00
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Vu la sincérité méticuleuse et la précision diabolique que son chef exécutif, Romain Meder, déploie dans chacune de ses assiettes, on serait plutôt tenté d’y déceler une nouvelle étape dans l’avantgarde gastronomique: celle d’une frugalité exquise, saine et vertueuse. Le Ducasse du siècle? ”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Bouchées après bouchées, l’on traverse avec équilibre et sérénité les passerelles qu’il tend entre les ingrédients…chef Christophe Saintagne offre l’un des plus belle carte de ce printemps…Comptez environ de 250 € à 450 € par personne pour un repas exceptionnel.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…while I can’t and won’t comment on whether or not it’s ‘right’ to spend so much money on a single meal, I will say that it was a spectacular evening, that the food was exquisite, and that I still believe that haute cuisine has a rightfully crucial role at the top of the French food chain.”

François Simon (2010) “Le reste du repas louvoie  entre tradition (le coq en pâte jus périgueux en remarquable pithiviers : 90€) et modernisme néo-chic pauvre (le homard avec ses pommes de terre : 90€).On sent à vrai dire, une cuisine à l’écoute de son temps…”

La Marine

La Marine

Quite possibly the best happy hour in town, this pub pours 5€ pints from 6-8 pm every day, even weekends. And the beers are much better than average – sure, you can get a 1664 here, but wouldn’t you rather quaff a Kilkenny, Kwak or Tripel Karmeliet? Situated on a busy corner near the Montparnasse train station, the terrasse (covered and heated in the colder months) offers endless people-watching, and if the TV isn’t showing sports, it’s really bad music videos.  The decent tap selection is rounded out by a collection of about 100 bottled beers, which come from all around the world and even feature a few organic beers and even one that’s gluten-free.

Practical information

Address: 59 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75006
Nearest transport: Montparnasse Bienvenüe (4, 6, 12, 13)
Hours: Every day 7am-3:30am (happy hour 6pm-8pm)
Telephone: 01 45 48 27 70
Average price for beer: 7.80-9€ for pints, 6.50€ for 33 cl bottles
Number of taps: 15
Average price for food: 9-15€
Food options: mussels, salads, sandwiches, omelettes, planches

académie de la bière Paris beer bar

Académie de la Bière

Long a favorite among students, the bustling “Beer Academy” is a worthwhile stop for any enthusiast of Belgian beer.  On tap or bottled, the beer offerings are predominantly Belgian, with a few French, German, and Czech options for good measure.  Food is served at all hours of the day, and the two large patios are covered and heated in the winter.  Service can be slow, but the bartenders and servers are beer lovers themselves, so don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations.

Practical information

Address: 88 bis boulevard de Port Royal, 75005
Nearest transport: Port Royal (RER B), Raspail (4, 6)
Hours: Sunday-Thursday 10:00am-2:00am, Friday-Saturday 10:00am-3:00am (happy hour 3:30pm-7:30pm)
Telephone: 01 43 54 66 65
Average price for beer: 8€ for pints (5.50€ during happy hour), 6-7€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 12
Average price for food: 8-15€
Food options: mussels, sausages, salads, tartines, planches

Additional reviews

Académie de la Bière page on Beer Advocate

Fish La Boissonnerie restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Fish (La Boissonnerie)

This popular restaurant and wine bar run by Drew Harre and Juan Sanchez is a sort of Anglo haven, excellent for a quick glass, a solo dinner at the bar, or for those times when you’re just tired of speaking French. Current chef Oliver Clarke is turning out some really solid food. 

  An absolute favorite

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La Cremerie by Barbra Austin

La Crèmerie

Natural wines, great products, in an exquisite old space. Slightly draconian hours.

Practical information

Address: 9 rue des Quatre-Vents, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Their hours are complicated and seem to change a lot. Our latest understanding is as follows: they are open for selling wine Monday, 3:30pm-8:30pm and Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30am-10pm. They serve lunch Tuesday-Thursday, noon-1:30pm and Friday-Saturday, 1pm-2:30pm. Come for apéro hour Monday 4pm-9pm and Tuesday-Saturday, 5pm-7pm. Dinner is served Thursday-Saturday, 7:30pm-8:30pm. Closed Sunday.
Reservations: Accepted for dinner only. Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 43 54 99 30
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: classic French, small plates

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2013) “The little bites are wonders: Albacore tuna from the île d’Yeu, little smoked trout terrine, blood sausage with onions from La Maison Galland in Touraine, authentic ham and Bordier butter sandwich. As for the nectars, glasses of red (Roussilon Tam-Tam du Domaine du Bout du Monde at €7 a glass) and white (Touraine Petit Buisson du Clos du Tue-Boeuf at €7 a glass).”

le barav photo facebook

Le Barav’

This friendly upper Marais wine bar serves simple charcuterie, cheese, salads, and sandwiches to go along with 5€ glasses, or a bottle from their cave next door. In the summer, there’s a great terrace on the street.

Practical information

Address: 6 rue Charles François Dupuis, 75003
Nearest transport: République (3, 5, 8, 9, 11)
Hours: Lunch, Monday-Friday; dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 48 04 57 59
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest 

Paris Bouge (2013) “Parce qu’il fait à la fois office de bar, de restaurant, de cave à vin et d’épicerie, le Barav et sa cave mitoyenne offrent tout ce dont on peut rêver pour un apéritif bien français.”

Photo via Le Barav’s Facebook

La Fine Mousse

La Fine Mousse

Boasting the very best selection of craft beers on tap in Paris, as well as a bottle collection that brings the total offer up to 150 different beers, La Fine Mousse is certainly one of the city’s most well-stocked beer bars.  It’s also one of the most expensive.  French craft beers share real estate with lesser-known Belgians and German brews, with room left over for the USA, the Netherlands, and less-represented places like Norway and Italy to show off their brewing prowess.  The meticulously curated beer list includes deep tracks from Brasserie St. Germain and Brewdog, and the descriptions (in French or English) will help you find just the beer you’re looking for.  Serious beer geeks abound, the quiet atmosphere of the early evening eventually giving way to a lively party vibe as the social lubricant kicks in.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 6 avenue Jean Aicard, 75011
Nearest transport: Rue St. Maur (3), Ménilmontant (2)
Hours: Every day, 5pm-2am
Telephone: 09 80 45 94 64
Average price for beer: 4-7€ for demis, 6-13€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 20
Average price for food: 12€
Food options: planches of cheese, charcuterie, or both

Additional reviews

Haven in Paris (2014) “There’s no denying the quality of the ingredients or the creativity of the menu at LFM Restaurant. Like any innovative new venture, there are still a few wrinkles to iron out, especially considering the price point, but if you like craft beer and provocative food, or are simply curious, take a few friends and give La Fine Mousse a try.”
La Fine Mousse page on Beer Advocate

Le Figaro (2013) “Ouvert l’été dernier, un passage obligé pour tous les toqués du malt et du houblon. Entièrement dédié aux bières artisanales, le lieu joue la carte d’un certain modernisme avec ses murs bruts et pierres apparentes et ses becs chromés alignés derrière le bar. Les références du moment sont annotées à la craie sur le tableau noir. Il ne reste plus qu’à se laisser guider pour choisir.”

The Daily Croissant (2013) “A cozy bar serving 150 different quality beers from around the world, it also offers around twenty pressions, served right on tap.  These are constantly being switched in and out, so there’s always something new to try.  Blondes, reds, stouts, porters, IPAs, the list goes on and on.  Feeling adventurous?  Try the Old Crustacean Barleywine, their strongest beer on tap at 11.5% ABV.  If you’re overwhelmed by the wealth of options, the bartenders are friendly, knowledgeable, and always let you have a taste before committing to anything.”

Paris Bouge (2012) “Les créateurs de La Fine Mousse sont peut être en train de changer une habitude. Celle qui consiste à considérer la bière comme un alcool d’happy hour, sans caractère et sans identité. En effet, depuis 1 mois, ce bar élégant, à l’opposé de la taverne et de l’ambiance pub, propose de déguster une sélection de bières étonnantes et variées: 20 bières en pression en alternance selon les semaines et de nombreuses bouteilles.”
Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2012) “Given the size of the craft beer market in numerous other major cities, Paris’ stagnant beer scene has long presented an untapped opportunity. So I was overjoyed to learn that, with the soft opening last month of a majestic twenty-tap beer bar called La Fine Mousse in a quiet square off rue Oberkampf, some enterprising young Frenchmen have at last seized the moment… The highlights of some recent trips to La Fine Mousse have instead been a balanced and lightly spiced local IPA from Brasserie Outland, in Bagnolet, and Spezial’s impressively weird Rauchbier, or smoked lager, redolent of bacon…”

Brewberry beer shop Paris


A true beer geek’s paradise, Cécile Delorme’s shop near the tourist- and student-friendly rue Mouffetard stocks hundreds of different beers from traditional Belgian and German to cult favorite Danish and Norwegian.  A rotating selection of beers are stocked cold for immediate consumption, but any bottle you like can be chilled in her fridge.  Bottle prices remain the same whether taken seated on the small patio or to go.  The collection here is deep, and staff are only too happy to advise and guide your selections.

Practical information

Address: 18 rue du Pot de Fer, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7)
Hours: Tuesday 3pm-9pm, Wednesday-Saturday 12:30pm-11pm, Sunday 12pm-9pm. Closed Monday.
Telephone: 01 43 36 53 92
Average price for beer: 4-8€ for 33 cl bottles, 10-20€ for 50-75 cl bottles
Number of taps: none
Notable brews: Green Flash (USA), Nogne (Norway), Rooie Dop (Netherlands), Brasserie de la Senne (Belgium)
Average price for food: 5-12€

Reviews of interest

Brewberry page on Beer Advocate

Le Sous Bock beer bar Paris

Le Sous-Bock

Don’t be discouraged by the bog-standard beers on tap at this dark, European-style sports bar.  The bottled beer selection is extensive (and expensive), with brews from France and Belgium dominating the options.  A small collection of vintage beers is a unique addition to the menu.  For large groups, beer can be purchased in Magnums, Jeroboams, or even a 9-liter Salmanazar. The staff is pleasant, though not incredibly knowledgeable, and the food is industrially-produced bar food. Still, you’ll need to eat something after a couple of those strong ales, or if you’re posted up to watch a rugby or soccer match on the big-screen TVs.

Practical information

Address: 49 rue St. Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Châtelet (1, 4, 7, 11, 14)
Hours: Every day, 12pm-2am (later on the weekends)
Telephone: 01 40 26 46 61
Average price for beer: 5-8€ for pints, 7.50-8€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 12
Average price for food: 8-15€
Food options: large salads, mussels+fries, café-style plats du jour

Reviews of interest

Le Sous-Bock page on Beer Advocate

Photo by Camille Malmquist

La Fût Gueuze

Of the dozen beers on tap at this otherwise typical college bar, not one is Heineken, Kronenbourg, or  Stella. Instead, La Fût Gueuze has a solid lineup of mostly lesser-known Belgians influenced, no doubt, by their “big sister”: the Académie de la Bière. Several dozen bottles round out the offerings, though these don’t look to be a priority based on the party-centric signage.

Practical information

Address: 24 Rue Duméril, 75013
Nearest transport: Campo Formio (5)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 4:00pm-2:00am (Happy hour 4:00pm-9:00pm); Closed Sunday
Telephone01 77 15 87 13
Average price for beer: 6-7€  for pints (5€ during happy hour)
Number of taps: 12
Average price for food: 8-15€
Food options: croques, burgers, hot dogs, planches

Le Rubis by Barbra Austin

Le Rubis

With its zinc bar, hearty home cooking, and colorful local clientele, this beloved wine bar (and its Turkish toilet) seems impervious to change. Meals are served only at lunch; the rest of the day you can stop for a glass of Morgon or Brouilly and a snack.

Practical information

Address: 10 rue Marché Saint Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Tuileries (1) or Pyramides (7, 14)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 61 03 34
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2013) “Les Rubis is one of the few places in Paris that I can think of that still exudes that old French charm; it’s got a very convivial atmosphere, the café chairs and table are worn but shiny from years of use, and no-nonsense service that’s cheerful, yet professional.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “Today the hangout remains virtually unchanged, just as boisterous, pushy, and old-fashioned, the spot for a bargain 11-euro platter of confit de canard (duck cooked in fat) and a thick potato gratin; meaty petit salé aux lentilles (braised salted pork with brown lentils), as well as a roborative and succulent tête de veau.”

Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “A 1930s-era bar à vin that seems to have changed little since then…The food is as unpretentious as the wine…a kind of high-cholesterol home cooking that will put you in a good mood…”

Pudlo (2010) “Sur le coup de 19h15, prendre un verre au Rubis, c’est opérer un ludique et judicieux retour en arrière. Ce bistrot sis au coeur du coeur de Paris est un lieu immuable.”

Meg Zimbeck for BlackBook (2008) “Just off the super-posh rue Saint-Honoré, Le Rubis is full of burgundy banquettes, a few pricey bottles from that region, plus plenty of inexpensive glasses from the Beaujolais region. The good ones, of course, not that Nouveau crap. Proper lunch during the daytime or planches of cheese and charcuterie at night. The after-work crowd always spills out onto the sidewalk.”

David Lebovitz (2006) “I like to go at lunchtime, especially in the cold winter months, where the friendly owners will squeeze you into a seat at one of the tiny tables covered with crisp white paper, a folded napkin, some utilitarian silverware, and an overturned wine glass, ready to be filled. After lunch of later in the afternoon, Parisians gather outside by the wine barrels…”



au nouveau nez photo facebook

Au Nouveau Nez

A small, thoughtful collection of natural wines lines the wall at this Oberkampf shop, where you can snack on charcuterie and cheese while enjoying a bottle, at zero corkage. There’s more space at the second location, in the 20th.

Practical information

Address: 114 rue Saint-Maur, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 3pm-9pm; closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 55 02 30

Additional locations

Address: 52 rue de Bagnolet, 75020
Nearest transport: Alexandre Dumas (2)
Telephone: 01 43 56 94 55

Reviews of interest

Wine Terroirs (2012) “This place (where you can also drink and eat) is one of these new wine shops focusing on non-interventionist wines, it is very encouraging that an increasing number of cavistes select their wines on their inherent qualities and not on flawed notions of AOC… a small place with a wall of bottles on the right and some sort of central bar counter to put the glasses and bottles. In the evening, you can drink some wine with a little something like a charcuterie plate or some tapas in this cave.”

Aaron Ayscough (2010) “In her tiny outpost in Paris’ 11eme, the friendly and punctilious proprietress Nadine serves everything rather comme il faut….”

Photo via Au Nouveau Nez’s Facebook page

Paris St Biere beer shop

Paris St-Bière

An alimentation génerale turned beer shrine, this tiny shop still carries convenience food alongside its floor-to-ceiling shelves of good beer.  The owner is an enthusiastic amateur, excited to learn more about beer (especially American beer) and increase his already impressive selection.  A refrigerated case promises cold beer to go, and the shop is open until very late on weeknights, just in case.

Practical information

Address: 101 rue de Charonne, 75011
Nearest transport: Charonne (9)
Hours: Sunday-Thursday 12:00pm-3:00am
Telephone: 01 74 30 44 49
Average price: 33cl bottles 3-4€, 75cl bottles 7-10€
Notable Brews: John Martin’s (Belgium), Brasserie à Vapeur (Belgium), Sierra Nevada (USA), Goose Island (USA)

People's Drug Store

Peoples Drug Store

With a host of international beers, a speedy bottle-chilling machine, and a row of chess tables at patrons’ disposal, Guillaume Lucas’ shop is a welcome addition to the rue des Martyrs.  M. Lucas is quiet, but happy to answer questions and clearly loves beer.  His collection contains brews from dozens of countries (with Belgium heavily represented), and he’s looking forward to carrying more French craft beers as the distribution and availability for these increase.  A good place to pick up something on the way to a party or picnic, but you can also pass a few hours here, playing chess and sipping quality beer.

Practical information

Address: 78 rue des Martyrs, 75018
Nearest transport: Abbesses (12), Pigalle (2, 12)
Hours: Every day 12pm-12am (2am Friday-Saturday)
Average price: 3€ for 33-50cl bottles, 6€ for 75cl bottles
Notable Brews: Ar-Men (France-Brittany), Rince Cochon (Belgium), Negra Modelo (Mexico)

Reviews of interest

HIP Paris (2012) “At Peoples Drug Store, owner Guillaume Lucas has transformed a Montmartre corner storefront into an understated haven for Parisian beer-drinkers looking to delve beyond basic supermarket staples. The selection of over 500 beers sourced from around the world (although notably dominated by the Belgian sort) is casually put on display with no sign of hierarchy.”

Troll Cafe

Troll Café

This unassuming bar, tucked on a side street near the Marché d’Aligre, boasts an impressive collection of over 100 beers. The selection is largely Belgian and mostly in bottles, though the tap choices are above average (Troll, Bavik, Petrus, and a bière du moment).  The ambiance is relaxed and familial, the prices very reasonable, and the TV more likely to be showing a cheesy movie than a sporting event.

Practical information

Address: 27, rue de Cotte, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 5pm-2am
Telephone: 01 43 42 10 75
Average price for beer: 8€ for pints, 5-7€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 4
Average price for food: 3€
Food options: hot dogs

Falstaff beer bar Paris


Amid the multitude of crêperies on this little street sits this good old-fashioned beer bar. It’s cozy and bustling, with classic rock on the stereo, beer-friendly eats, and maybe, just maybe, NFL football on TV. Service is speedy and well-informed, and the hooks along the walls and bar are appreciated by purse-carriers and coat-wearers everywhere. In addition to the 13 beers on tap, you’ll find 120 different bottled beers. Prices are a little steep, but the convivial ambiance and tasty Belgian beers are certainly worth a splurge now and then.

Practical information

Address: 42 rue du Montparnasse, 75014
Nearest transport: Montparnasse Bienvenüe (4, 6, 12, 13), Edgar Quinet (6), Vavin (4)
Hours: Every day 12pm-4am
Telephone: 01 43 35 38 29
Average price for beer: 9€ for pints, 8€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 13
Average price for food: 8-16€
Food options: choucroute, sausages, burgers, steaks, mussels, salads, omelettes


Express de Lyon

Express de Lyon

Although it appears on first glance like any other train station-adjacent café-bar, this place is a must for serious beer geeks in Paris.  Their rotating selection of taps includes craft beers from all around Europe (some favorites: Craig Allan’s hoppy French brews, BrewDog’s assertive beers from Scotland, and the kooky but delicious offerings from Denmark’s “nomad” brewery, Evil Twin).  For the less adventurous, they also pour more well-known Belgians like Chouffe, Chimay, and Leffe.  The bartenders know their stuff, and are happy to talk beer with greenhorns and aficionados alike

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 1 rue de Lyon, 75012
Nearest transport: Gare de Lyon (1, 14)
Hours: Every day, 8am-12:30am
Telephone: 01 43 43 21 32
Average price for beer: 7-9.50€ for pints, 4-6€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 15
Average price for food: 5-12€
Food options: café standards

Additional reviews

Express de Lyon page on Beer Advocate

Bières by Elizabeth (2012) “C’est un véritable rêve éveillé : la carte de bières est époustouflante, détaillée sur ardoise, la carte brasserie sans chichis, avec de vrais bons produits. Le Croque Madame arrive épais à souhait, gratiné comme il faut, avec du bon jambon, du bon fromage, du moelleux en veux –tu en- voilà, le service est de qualité, le serveur sympa, attentionné, sans prétention…”

Bière et Malt Paris beer bar & shop

Bière et Malt

Just north of the bustling rue Montorgeuil, this tiny beer cave is a haven for beer lovers with dozens of international bottles available either to go or to drink on site at one of the four tables.  Books about beer decorate the tables and customers are welcome to peruse them while sipping.  The shopkeeper is quick with advice and beer recommendations, and sustenance is provided in the form of cheese and charcuterie plates.

Practical information

Address: 4 rue Poissonnière, 75002
Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9), Sentier (3)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 5pm-12am
Telephone: 01 40 26 10 40
Average price for beer: 4.40€ for 33cl bottles consumed there, cheaper to go
Number of taps: none
Notable Brews: Brasserie des Légendes (Belgium), Brooklyn Brewery (USA), Brasserie St. Germain (France)
Average price for food: 5-10€
Food options: cheese and charcuterie platters, hot dogs

Reviews of interest

Bière et Malt page on ParisBouge.com

Photo by Camille Malmquist

Le Mayflower

This comfortable pub at the top of rue Mouffetard pours a rotating selection of well-known Belgian beers like Chimay, Maredsous, and Delirium. If you’re feeling peckish, you can order one of an array of dried sausages, which are served with a cutting board and a knife. It’s a good place to stop for a cheap (for that hood) pint after a day exploring the Arènes de Lutèce, or for an irresponsible late night after bowling.

Practical information

Address: 49 Rue Descartes, 75005
Nearest transport: Cardinal Lemoine (10), Place Monge (7)
Hours: Sunday-Thursday 4:00pm-2:00am,  Friday-Saturday 4:00pm-5:00am. Happy hour 4:00pm-9:30pm.
Telephone: 01 56 24 27 21
Average price for beer: 8€ for pints. 5.50€ during happy hour.
Number of taps: 12
Average price for food: 4.50€
Food options: sausages

le vin en tete photo le vin en tete

Le Vin en Tête

This user-friendly shop, open every day, features mostly organic and natural wines, as well as a selection of big, classic names. For French speakers, Le Vin en Tête offers an extensive schedule of classes.

Practical information

Address: 48 rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 75009
Nearest transport: Saint-Georges (12)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 53 21 90 17
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 30 rue des Batignolles, 75017
Nearest transport: Rome (2)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 44 69 04 57

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “Not content with stocking more than 1200 wines and spirits, ‘Le Vin en Tête’, also takes a teaching role, seeking to educate and to make the science behind wine-making interesting to as many as possible.”

Pierrick Jegu (2009) “Dans le genre bio-nature mais sans dogmatisme outrancier, cette maison pleine d’esprit dresse un catalogue assez palpitant…”

Wine Terroirs (2007) “They offer some 1000-1200 wines from all the french regions. A favorite ? Domaine Guillot-Broux, with the Macon-Cruzille (30 Euro) and the Macon-Villages (8 Euro)…And an italian (they also have a few foreign wines) organicly-farmed Sangiovese Rosso Del Gello 2004.”

Featured in Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris

 Photo via Le Vin en Tête’s Facebook page


Le Verre Volé (Cave)

This Verre Volé location is only a wine shop. For info on the resto – where you can also buy bottles – go here.

  An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 38 rue Oberkampf, 75011
Nearest transport: Oberkampf (9)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 43 14 99 46

Reviews of interest

Wine Terroirs (2007) “Le Verre Volé is where you can check the heartbeat of the natural-wines world.”

La Derniere Goutte

La Dernière Goutte

Terroir-driven, estate-bottled, organic and biodynamic wines from small producers are the specialty at this beloved shop, run for almost 20 years by Juan Sanchez. Especially strong in their selection of growers’ Champagnes and bottles from the Rhone Valley. Stop by on Friday nights for their free “wine down” tastings from 5-7:30pm, as well as free Saturday tastings with winemakers from 11am-7:30pm. Check our calendar of Paris food & wine events to find out which winemakers they’ll be hosting this week.

An absolute favorite 

Practical information

Address: 6 rue Bourbon le Chateau, 75006
Nearest transport: Mabillon (10)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 10am-8pm; Sunday, 10am-7pm
Telephone: 01 43 29 11 62

Reviews of interest

Jancis Robinson for The Financial Times (2014) “But if I lived alone in Paris I would probably head for Juan Sanchez’s La Dernière Goutte on the Left Bank. It has the cosy air of a friendly club built around wine, open seven days a week with free tastings on Friday and Saturday, conducted in English as well as French. It was, incidentally, the only wine shop I visited where I was offered a taste.”

Lettie Teague (2012) “Saturday mornings are the best and worst times to visit the wine shop La Dernière Goutte: the best because there is inevitably a great free wine tasting taking place—and the worst, for the very same reason.”

Pierrick Jégu (2009) “…une sélection remarquable et affûtée en provenance du Languedoc, du Rhône, de Bourgogne, de Loire, d’Alsace et d’ailleurs…”

Dr Vino (2007) “a small but well-chosen selection of wines from the growers themselves, including Champagnes. He has weekly tastings with visiting producers on Saturday afternoons…”

Shang Palace

Haute Cantonese cooking comes to Paris.

Practical information

Address: 10 avenue Iéna (in the Shangri-La hotel), 75016
Nearest transport: Iéna (9)
Hours: Thursday-Monday, noon-2pm and 7pm-10:30 pm; closed Tuesday and Wednesday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 53 67 19 92
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Chinese

Reviews of interest

Le Monde (2013) “Eclat moiré du laquage, croustillant de la peau, moelleux de la chair, subtilité des épices, raffinement du service… Comme un grand vin, le canard laqué à la pékinoise est un plat qui raconte une histoire et plonge ses racines dans un terroir immémorial. Pour en déguster un exceptionnel (ni congelé, ni précuit, ni réchauffé, comme c’est parfois le cas !), on peut se rendre au Shang Palace, situé au niveau inférieur du Shangri-La.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2012) “…ces bouchées frites ou cuites à la vapeur sont ici des petits bijoux aux proportions si parfaites qu’on les croirait factices…”

Chrisos (2011) “Une très belle découverte, en bonne et intéressante compagnie (ils se reconnaitront). Cela donne envie de revenir et de découvrir leur carte plus en profondeur. Le Shang Palace, c’est un ensemble de petits détails (déco, service, cuisine, produits, atmosphère…) qui, mis ensemble, donne un résultat abouti. Le luxe est dans les détails.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “There’s simply no place like this in Paris, both in terms of the cooking and almost as importantly, the atmosphere…flawlessly attentive but exquisitely discreet service…”

Emmanuel Rubin (2011) “…les fils de saveurs en préciosités Paris-Pékin…Canard laqué façon pékinoise : haute couture du genre. Epatante carte de dim sum au déjeuner.”

Sophie Brissaud (2011) “…c’est bon, très bon…Saluons plutôt les efforts du chef et de ses assistants pour reproduire le plus exactement possible la cuisine d’un grand établissement hong-kongais. Maintenant, je sais que ça existe à Paris.”

Les Tablettes

Les Tablettes

In the old La Table de Joël Robuchon location, Les Tablettes reopened with a new chef (Jean-Louis Nomicos) and a pop attitude.

Practical information

Address: 16 avenue Bugeaud, 75016
Nearest transport: Victor Hugo (2)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 56 28 16 16
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2014) “…le menu club au déjeuner (entrée, plat, fromage, dessert, café, vin et amuse-bouches salés et sucrés), combine les deux, du choix et du talent. Subjuguant de créativité et collant parfaitement aux saisons, ce premier menu débute par un velouté de morilles légèrement émulsionné…”

Patricia Wells (2011) “A daurade tartare paired with shiso and mango seemed to have no point and was simply bland. A langoustine broth with a tiny mound of minced langoustines seemed a waste…I think the chef is not aware of what incredible competition he has these days in Paris.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…sunny contemporary French dishes that manage to be sincere and homey and sophisticated at the same time…a well-dressed table with serious cooking and sturdy prices in that niche on the Paris culinary totem pole just below haute cuisine…”

Emmanuel Rubin (2011) “En attendant la virtualisation totale des appétits, du plat de l’iPad au creux de l’assiette, la cuisine trouve encore, ici, à prendre relief autour des compositions de Jean-Louis Nomicos, directement passé, lui, des charmes vieille France du Lasserre aux rectitudes d’un design contemporain, bon geek, bon genre.”

Francois-Régis Gaudry (2011) “Juste, pointilliste, délibérément grand genre…L’addition? Une divine surprise… enfin, pour les anciens clients de chez Lasserre.”

Au Clocher de Montmartre by John Talbott

Au Clocher de Montmartre

An easy-going, all-day spot from Antoine Heerah.

Practical information

Address: 10 rue Lamarck, 75018
Nearest transport: Lamarck-Caulaincourt (12)
Hours: Open every day 12-10:30pm; Sunday brunch 11am-3pm.
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 64 90 23
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French bistro, Small plates

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “…a break-through for the (Mont)montagnards; like Hillary planting a flag atop Everest, the existence of decent food on the top of our hill is noteworthy…my only beef with this place is that its menu has too much tilt towards club sandwiches, salads and brunch stuff and too few traditional French food offerings.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “This is an intensely customer-friendly restaurant that has been very shrewdly conceived to appeal to the time-short life and times of both tourists–this place is right behind the Sacre Coeur, and Parisians, since you can eat what you want, when you want and in any quantity or sequence that makes you happy.”

Caroline Mignot (2012) “Le quartier peu occupé un mardi à midi pourrait, sans vouloir tomber dans le cliché, vous faire croire avoir été projeté dans une autre époque, un peu à l’image du film de Woody Allen Minuit à Paris… Côté prix, les entrées varient de 7 à 13 €, les plats de 12 à 23 €, les desserts sont à 8 €. On peut donc s’en tirer très bien pour 20 €, comme pour 35 €. Ouvert 7 jours et 7 et en continu de 12h à 22h30 (salon de thé l’après-midi), bref, une bonne pioche de quartier.”

John Talbott (2012) “Le Clocher de Montmartre is Antoine Heerah’s third place (after Chamarré Montmartre & Moulin de la Galette, neither of which I liked much) and will become, I predict, the only restaurant over 100 meters on the Mont worth visiting in short order.”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “Au Clocher, on picore un peu à toute heure. On ne pousse pas la porte pour suivre le schéma entrée, plat et dessert. Une envie d’œufs? Pas de souci, à la crème et aux morilles. Vous êtes plutôt tarte salée ? Au choix, au crabe ou à la betterave et à la ricotta. A moins que vous ne préfériez une soupe? Noodles et ravioles ou courge à l’huile de truffe et sa part de  brioche au curcuma.”

La Fourchette du Printemps via Facebook

La Fourchette du Printemps

The setting is no-frills but the food is refined at this small bistro on the edge of the 17th, which earned one Michelin star in 2011.

Practical information

Address: 30 rue du Printemps, 75017
Nearest transport: Malesherbes (3)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; Saturday, dinner only; closed Sunday
Reservations: book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 27 26 97
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Chrisoscope (2012) “…donné le niveau de l’assiette, c’est une belle prestation, qui vaut bien un peu d’indulgence sur la localisation…”

Thierry Richard (2011) “Les assiettes ont de l’allure : on cherche la nappe blanche et les couverts en argent, le maître d’hôtel aux gants beurre-frais et le seau à glace, mais rien de tout cela ici. Seule une grande cuisine, un savoir-faire de talent sur du bois brut…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…this very pleasant restaurant offers very good food at very reasonable prices…”

Emmanuel Rubin (2009) “…une petite douzaine de plats bienséants, sages, récitant leur petite leçon néoclassique…Produits superbes et forte technique à la réplique…”

John Talbott (2009) “…for firsts a superb creamy soup of cauliflower (DuBarry) and a terrific terrine of foie gras, veal and wrap of leeks…a most tasty piece of cod with fall veggies…boring sounding but more than fine.”

Scallops and endive, photo courtesy of John Talbott


A highly praised neo-bistro from Le Richer alum Alexandre Giesbert who presents fresh products creatively with a slightly international bent.

Practical information

Address: 31 rue Guillaume-Tell, 75017
Nearest transport: Porte de Champerret (3), Pereire (3)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 64 86 04
Average price for lunch
Average price for dinner
Style of cuisine:
Modern French

Reviews of interest

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “Precisely what Parisians wish to eat these days: sweetly accessible variations on menu staples, finessed to a sheen and enlivened with the odd exotic ingredient (seaweed tapenade, kumquat). Prices are extremely reasonable. But Giesbert’s cuisine is hobbled by the restaurant’s far-flung location, and an almost punitively boring wine list.”

John Talbott (2014) “If you like breakout, edgy, pushing-the-envelope food with wonderfully strange combos that work – go!”

Time Out (2013) “On cerne aussi vite l’esprit de cette cuisine, à la fois simple, créative et soignée, que l’on tombe sous son charme…Ici, la gourmandise se récite tout en finesse.”

Thierry Richard (2013) “De la cuisine jaillissent des plats surprenants, frais, percutants, jonglant avec les assemblages inattendus (des algues kombu en contrepoint d’un agneau laiton rosé et de sa purée de topinambours/poires), affinant leur présentation (cevice de mulet noir, concombre, oxalis, huile de pistache, pimpant comme un jardin à Giverny) et soignant leur vocabulaire (œuf basse température, crème de maïs, bœuf séché, espuma beurre noisette, tout en douceur).”

Le Fooding (2013) “Se fout royalement de la politique, préférant envoyer des bons petits plats: tataki de thon, laqué d’une pâte de sésame noir, rafraîchi de quartiers de pamplemousse et humecté d’une huile de figuier; burrata dynamisée par une escabèche de légumes acidulés et une crème d’olives noires de Kalamata; tagliatelles de blé noir acoquinées avec des cèpes, shitakés, oignons rouges et feuilles de mizuna; suprême de cannette au savoureux jus corsé, avec petites girolles et purée d’agria (pomme de terre) au goût de noisette, etc.”

A Nous Paris (2013) “Œuf basse température, crème de maïs, bœuf séché, espuma beurre noisette (10 €) – joli mais un tantinet éteint –, suprême de canette, girolles, fruits rouges et purée (19 €) – vif, précis, addictif –, tarte aux figues, crème diplomate au foin, meringue au citron vert (8 €) – délicat, mais, encore une fois, un peu sage.”

L’Express (2013) “La cible du jour? La fraîcheur d’un tataki de thon au sésame noir et pamplemousse, arrosé à l’huile de figuier, la rusticité des tagliatelles de blé noir aux champignons et oignon rouge confit, et le fondant d’une daurade au chou de Pontoise, adouci à l’écume de gingembre et fouetté à la pomme verte.”

John Talbott (2013) “Pretty much perfect…The menu doesn’t look all that exceptional but what comes out sure is.”

Le Journal du Dimanche  (2013) “Voilà une cuisine parfaitement dans l’air du temps, délicate et bien pensée.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Œuf cuit basse température, crème de maïs et bœuf séché: gourmande langueur.  Volaille fermière au saté, espuma de galanga, purée de haricots jaunes: maniérée dans l’appellation, nettement plus gouailleur sous le palais.”

photo 4

La Rallonge

A casual wine bar from Chef Geoffroy Maillard serving Spanish-ish small plates, just down the street from La Table d’Eugene. Don’t miss the risotto–elbow noodles with a creamy truffled mushroom sauce and served in a tiny Staub casserole.

Practical information

Address: 16 rue Eugène-Sue, 75018
Nearest transport: Marcadet-Poissonniers (12), Jules Joffrin (12)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for dinner
Reservations: Reservations not required
Telephone: 01 42 59 43 24
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2013) “The only exciting dish was/were the tempura’d langoustines; the quail was pathetic.”

Colette Monsat (2013) “Les portions sont petites mais fines, à l’instar des ravioles de gambas au bouillon thaï, du délicieux risotto de coquillettes cèpes et huile de truffe, de la joue de bœuf au vin rouge ou, pour les becs sucrés, du riz au lait caramel beurre salé. Tarifs doux (6-8 €) qui permettent de goûter et comparer, sans affoler le portefeuille.”

Le Fooding (2013) “Des croquettes de serrano, un croustillant de canard, des ravioles de volaille au foie gras, des chipirons à la plancha, une délicieuse joue de bœuf et cappuccino de patate… Plus du pain à la soubressade de Majorque, des huîtres de Normandie et des planches de saucisson des Abruzzes, chorizo Extra Magno, cecina, épaule de pata negra, jambon de porc noir de Bigorre…De ce côté de la Butte Montmartre, c’est pain béni!”

Chamarre Montmartre

Chamarré Montmartre

Chef Antoine Heerah draws from the flavors and ingredients of his native Mauritius — and all around the Indian ocean — and fuses them with French technique.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Lamarck, 75018
Nearest transport: Lamarck-Caulaincourt (12)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 55 05 42
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Fusion

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Quelques exemples de son talent? La gelée de concombre aux huîtres, oursins et couteaux rafraichis, coquillages aux fèves et jus de yuzu, qu’on accompagne d’un exquis pain brioché au curcuma…Bref, du beau, du bon, du frais, du léger, avec des vins dans le ton.”

François Simon (2009) “Ici, la cuisine garde toujours son tempo chamarré, piochant dans les îles de l’océan ces jolis boosters de saveurs : poivre de Madagascar, huile de café, limequats, chutneys, mangue, vanille….”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…one of the most guileless, intelligent and original fusion cuisines currently available in Paris.”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “…les formules déjeuner annoncent de belles couleurs, des plats tout en nuances de cuisson, de fraîcheur, d’épices et de fruits.”

John Talbott (2009) “…I had the fancy-schmancy wild Garenne rabbit rollatines (6 € supplement) with foie gras and dozens of other ingredients that I could neither keep track of nor cared to. I didn’t finish it, quickly ordering coffee, finishing my wine and deedeemowing out of there.”