Dilia is a Paris bistro from Italian chef Michele Farnesi. He makes great pasta, but don’t expect a stereotypical roster of Italian dishes here. You’re much more likely to be offered roasted pigeon than puttanesca. Dilia sits on a pretty square in the 20th arrondissement and feels like an off-the-beaten-track charmer. Tables are set with candles and on top of one another. There’s an excellent wine list (and shop next door) that leans Italian and natural. Keep it in mind… Read More »Dilia
One of the most fun restaurants in Paris can be found at the end of a cobblestone alley on the southern edge of Père Lachaise cemetery. Amagat, which means “hidden” in Catalan, requires some effort to find, but the experience is more than worth it. There’s a beautiful garden, but in the winter you’ll want to take a seat inside at the long counter where you can watch them prepare small plates (tapas) like ham croquetas, lamb chops marinated in… Read More »Amagat
Le Grand Bain was founded by chef Ed Delling-Williams (Au Passage, St-John) and has been reliably offering one of the most comprehensive menus of small plates in the capital on the vibrant rue Denoyez, just off the rue de Belleville. There have been many chef changes (his successor Emily Chia has also passed on), but some things seem remain the same: a funky list of natural bottles; friendly service that’s present without ever being obtrusive; a lengthy menu of offerings… Read More »Le Grand Bain
Lovers of natural wine and plant-driven small plates positively bursting with flavor have found their home at Petit Navire – a tiny, nautically-themed restaurant near the Parc de Belleville. This restaurant serves a panoply of internationally-inspired dishes that skew Mediterranean: Think accras with turmeric yogurt, zucchini “meatballs” with fresh herbs and lemon, or slow-cooked lamb with Paimpol beans. Roasted eggplant is a frequent flier, thanks to mastery of the nightshade by Canadian Chef Lily Hu (ex-Ellsworth); no matter its topping… Read More »Petit Navire
The overarching honesty and generosity of La Vierge’s concept places the restaurant alongside overachieving peers like Belleville’s Le Cadoret at the vanguard of a new generation of Paris bistrot that recognizes the value of virtue.
Food and wine pilgrims, particularly those who read the New York Times or watch Anthony Bourdain, are willing to climb the hill for this Belleville institution. Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own personal brand of bistro cooking – sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. In stark contrast to the loving kitchen, the dining room is cold as ice, thanks to the joyless leadership of Carena’s husband Philippe.