Monthly Archives: March 2014

Le Bon Georges

It's all about the bon produits at Le Bon Georges: beef from Alexandre Polmard, sustainable seafood from small-scale fishermen, market fresh veg from Joël Thibault, and vins de propriétés. The menu changes each day at this brand new, but classically beautiful bistro.

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MandooBar

A twelve seat, one man dumpling making operation. The menu is short and sweet: two tartares, two dumplings, a bean sprout salad, and rice. The great pleasure is watching the care and precision of the chef as each item is made à minute before your eyes. Go for the tofu chive or pork & beef dumplings, but don’t miss the excellent soy and sesame-laced beef tartare.

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Mapped: Paris’ Best Lemon Tarts

Earlier this week, we published the results from our taste test of the best lemon tarts in Paris and you’ve been clamoring for a map of the addresses ever since. Your wish is our command. Go forth, eat tarts, and let us know which tarte au citron you want to be your main squeeze. >> Read More

La Carotte de Créances

Notes:

These carrots can only be grown in and around eight villages close to the Créances basin which is on the west coast of the Contentin peninsula in Normandy.
The carrots are grown close to the sea in long, narrow fields (strips really) called mielles. The very sandy soil has been fertilized with seaweed for generations making it rich in iodine and sulphur.

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Much Ado About Munster: Cheese Names Do Matter

There are a lot of inflammatory stories in the media about how Europe is trying to bully the US in trade talks into “giving back” its cheese names. Should producers in Vermont be able to name their cheese after a French or Italian village? Are these names about civic pride, or do they indicate something more? As someone who regularly encounters Americans’ confusion about names during my weekly French cheese tours in Paris, I have some thoughts. First of all: this isn’t new.

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Cafe Chilango taqueria in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Café Chilango

Practical information

Address: 82 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3), Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Monday-Wednesday for lunch, Thursday-Saturday for lunch & dinner, and Sunday for brunch
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 47 00 78 95
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Mexican, coffee, vegetarian options
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Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2015) “Karen, l’autre chef, fait éclore de délicieux tacos: pommes de terre, graines germées, sauce verte; poulet émincé sauté sauce mole, herbes; poulet, maïs bleu, coriandre, oignon rouge; fromage, haricots rouges, crème et chou arrosés de citron vert pétaradant de fraîcheur et de piquant.”

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Genin & Ducasse to Open Left Bank Chocolate Shops

We used to say that “it’s impossible to be a top chocolatier and not have a shop in Saint-Germain. Except for Jacques Genin in the Marais.” That was later amended to add Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse when it opened near Bastille.

And now both of these outliers are opening shops in Saint-Germain.

The wonderful site Painrisien recently tweeted a picture of the storefront window at 26 rue Saint-Benoit, advertising the imminent arrival of Ducasse. That means you’ll soon be able to buy a box of bonbons and eat it while standing in line for Le Relais de L’Entrecôte.

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Yannick Alleno to Cook in Swimming Pool

Well, not exactly… but the Michelin starred chef will moving in when the Molitor swimming pool reopens next Spring as a splashy (sorry) new hotel.

The Art Deco landmark near the Bois de Boulogne will be transformed into a hotel with all 124 rooms (hopefully not the size of changing cabins) overlooking the pool. There will be a restaurant – this is where Alleno comes in – and a rooftop bar overlooking the city.

It is unclear whether, as with all Paris pools, guests will be required to wear a swim cap and (for men) a Speedo.

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Edible Latin Quarter

The Latin Quarter gets a bad rap from those who only know the tourist-clogged rues de la Huchette or Pot de Fer. If you haven’t been back in a few years, you’ve missed the food and wine renaissance that’s taken place amid the Roman and Medieval monuments. >> Read More

Coutume & Lomi Trophy at Coffee Championships

One of the best things about last weekend’s Salon Success Food, other than the name itself, was the French Coffee Championship competition that was part of it.

BBS (which stands for Barista Bartender Solutions, a name that just screams Success Food) took home both 1st and 3rd place in the Barista competition, but Kevin Ayers from Coutume snagged 2nd place.

Coutume also picked up a 3rd place trophy for Latté Art (via Mati Touis), but Cafe Lomi‘s Magdalena Bronzinska took home 1st place for her foamy rendition of… what exactly? We wish we knew. But we do know that Café Lomi is organizing an atelier to learn Latté Art on March 29, and you can read more about it on their Facebook page.

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The Menace of Culinary Displacement in Paris

After a recent morning spent playing restaurant ping-pong via email with my friend Dorie, it dawned on me. We were trying to create an eating itinerary of traditional French bistros for a pair of retired chefs visiting from Oklahoma, and it proved to be a daunting task. Why? These men were coming to France to eat epic Gallic grub—you know, blanquette de veau, boeuf bourguignon, and coq au vin—and even with the difficulty of summer opening hours notwithstanding, it startled me to realize there’s just not a lot of that on offer in Paris anymore.

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Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano by Steven RothfeldAlexander Lobrano is the Consulting Features Editor for Paris by Mouth.

Alec was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until it closed in 2009, and has written about food and travel for Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom since he moved to Paris in 1986. He is a contributing editor at Saveur magazine and a regular contributor to the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, and the Guardian. In 2011, he was awarded the IACP’s Bert Greene award for culinary writing for his article “Spirit of the Bistro” in Saveur magazine. He is the author of Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City’s 109 Best Restaurants, Second Edition (Random House, 2014) and Hungry for France (Rizzoli, 2014).

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