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Bistros

dining room at Robert et Louise bistro in the Marais in Paris

Robert et Louise

Live-fire cooking and old Paris atmosphere define Robert et Louise in the Marais. Generous portions of grilled meats, blood sausage, and classic sides served around an open fireplace. Request ground floor seating to experience the wood-fired cooking. Open Sunday and Monday.

Dining room at Le Petit Celestin restaurant in Paris

LE PETIT CÉLESTIN

A bustling bistro along the Seine serving reliable French classics and select Italian-influenced dishes. The lively atmosphere and weekend availability near Notre-Dame make it valuable for travelers. Competent cooking in a genuinely convivial setting. Always packed — reservations essential.

Beef Bourguignon at Au Bourguignon du Marais restaurant in Paris

Au Bourguignon du Marais

Tourist-friendly Marais bistro serving classic French comfort food every day of the week. Quality varies significantly across the menu—stick to the beef bourguignon and onion soup, skip the fish and desserts. Best for first-time Paris visitors needing a reliable Monday or Sunday option.

Amarante restaurant in Paris

Amarante

In the age of Instagram, the plates and dining room at Amarante feel almost defiantly unadorned. Christophe Philippe has created a haven near Bastille for those who unapologetically love fatty food and offal and who share a disdain for vegetables. You won’t find any herbs, acidity or brightness on these plates. Both the food and the ambiance are decidedly heavy. Your gut-busting meal might finish with a simple scoop of chocolate mousse or a perfectly aged piece of Camembert-de-Normandie. The… Read More »Amarante

Le Maquis restaurant in Paris

Le Maquis

Le Maquis is a small French restaurant located on the far side of Montmartre boasting small portions of impeccable, contemporary bistro fare and a small, all-natural wine list. A slight Italian leaning pervades the menu, which also includes more classic French dishes. Lunch is a steal at 16-euro for two courses and 18 for three.

Le Mazenay

Le Mazenay

Hidden Marais gem serving classic French cuisine with subtle Vietnamese accents. Chef Denis Groison’s starters shine, particularly the white asparagus tart. Owner Lan curates an exceptional Burgundy wine list. Neighborly atmosphere, loyal regulars, closed weekends. Expensive but worth it for quality ingredients.

Le Comptoir du Relais

Le Comptoir du Relais

Chef Yves Camdeborde opened Le Comptoir du Relais in 2004 and, for a period of about a decade, it was one of the hottest tables in Paris. After years of diminishing quality, however, it stopped being a destination and was eventually sold in 2022 to chef Bruno Doucet (La Régalade Saint-Honoré). We returned after Doucet took it over and found it unredeemed.

Benoit

Open since 1912, this picture-postcard Paris bistro serves elevated and expensive French classics.

La Bourse et La Vie

La Bourse et la Vie is one of our favorite Classic Bistros in Paris. It’s a place where you come to celebrate, to bring a date, and to devour one of the best steak-frites in Paris.

Dining room at Bistrot des Tournelles restaurant in Paris

Bistrot des Tournelles

The Bistrot des Tournelles opened in 2022 and was named “Best Bistro of 2023” by Le Fooding. They’re not the only ones who raved – I know plenty of people who loved their experience here. I found it to be pretty good, but certainly not the best of the year. Classic desserts like crème brûlée, tarte Tatin and chocolate mousse were delicious. Salmon gravlax and oeufs mayo starters were “correct” and tasty. Two dishes were downright bad – the croque… Read More »Bistrot des Tournelles

Chez Michel

Chez Michel has reinvented itself many times within the bistro tradition. Founder Thierry Breton has passed the reins to chef Masahiro Kawai, who carries the torch for traditional dishes like Kig Ha Farz while creating his own instant-classics, like this spin on bouillabaisse. The atmosphere is homey with wood timbered ceilings and the wine list remains impressive. Leave room for desserts like Paris-Brest and Poire Belle Hélène (who else makes that anymore?). CHEZ MICHEL 10 Rue de Belzunce, 75010 Open Monday-Friday… Read More »Chez Michel

Aux Bons Crus

Read an old travel guide to France, and you’ll likely find mention of les routiers. At these roadside restaurants catering to truckers, grub was classic, cheap, and good. And despite the absence of any highway running through the trendy 11th arrondissement, Aux Bons Crus evokes these restaurants of yore.

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