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Longtime friends from the neighborhood Lelio Stettin and Sonny Lac offer rigorously-selected vegetables, cheeses, meats, eggs, craft beers, organic and natural wines, and tinned preserves – all of opulent quality at quasi-socialist prices. Lac formerly worked nearby at the quaint wine-bistrot Mélac, and his wine selection at Le Zingam is honest and simple, geared towards casual refreshment over geek reverence. The shop’s product selection overall is a work of low-key brilliance – from tomme de chevre to pancetta to yogurt pots, Le Zingam’s selections are laser-targeted to invite wholesale adoption into one’s habitual home meals. For any Parisians perturbed by the slow transformation of quality foodstuffs into luxuries in their city, Le Zingam – discerning, refined, and unpretentious – is a godsend.
At midday, Fine L’Épicerie de Belleville offers soups and sandwiches enjoyably enlivened with various low-key delicacies (dry Sicilian caper sausage, say, or spiced confit grape cream). Tables in the shop’s deep interior are a refuge from the street for lunchtime diners and the odd professional meeting. Along with cheese and charcuterie, Boussarie stocks a slightly haphazard range of inexpensive natural wine and craft beer. While not a tastemaking authority by any means, Fine L’Épicerie de Belleville remains a handy back-pocket address for things to bring to last-minute weeknight dinner parties and relatives’ birthday brunches.
— Catherine Down, January 2016
— Emily Brookes, November 2015
Address: 20 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted, but the restaurant can be booked for private parties at night
Telephone: 01 43 43 91 64
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Rotisserie, Classic French
Reviews of interest
David Lebovitz (2014) “At boucherie Les Provinces, you won’t be blown away by the food, but you’ll have a good time, as we did, digging into our onglet steaks… While you likely won’t find Les Provinces listed in restaurant guides as a place to cross town for, I can’t think of a better way to spend a day in Paris than strolling around the Aligre market… before diving into a couple of steaks while knocking back a few glasses of red in the convivial atmosphere of boucherie Les Provinces.”
Le Fooding (2014) “When we’re feeling ravenous at the end of the Marché (d’Aligre), we head to the Boucherie des Provinces, choose a piece of well-matured meat and grab a table. Ten minutes later, the meat is out of the pan, in the company of sautéed new potatoes and salad, augmented by €9.80 of cooking fees. Hanger steak, veal filet, leg of lamb, pork ribs, andouillette, veal sweetbreads, or carpaccio and tartare, made using meat guaranteed to be in excellent shape by Christophe Dru, the son of the butcher and a student of the neighborhood star, Michel Brunon.”
Table à Découvert (2014) “Cette boucherie-restaurant plantée au milieu du marché d’Aligre est irrésistible… Les pommes de terre rattes confites (le seul accompagnement de la maison) sont divines. Un peu sucrées, dorées comme j’aime, un peu grasses aussi.”
Time Out (2013) “As you walk in, all the meat is displayed on the left as usual, with Aligre locals lining up to do their shopping, while the rest of the space is a jumble of tables and counters, heaving with hungry meat-eaters tucking into a giant entrecôte or côte de boeuf, sweet lamb chops or juicy pork ribs.”
L’Express (2013) “Sur place ou à emporter? On a le choix chez le boucher Christophe Dru. Ses pièces de boeuf français longuement maturées se déclinent en carpaccio, tartare, onglet, faux-filet et côte, que l’on déguste devant l’étal.”
Photo via Boucherie Les Provinces’ Facebook page
This honey specialist behind La Madeleine dates back to 1905.