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In the Marais

Capitaine

Capitaine is a modern bistro tucked into a quiet Marais street just south of the Place des Vosges. The decor is pure (Brittany?) bistro, with bare wooden tables, moleskine banquettes, and assorted maritime kitsch. The menu appears at first glance to match this bistro vibe, but look closely: duck breast is dotted with prik pao sauce, raw oysters are garnished with shredded carrot, chile and peanuts, and fraise de veau (an intestinal membrane) carries the flavors of mapo tofu.

Norma Italian restaurant in Paris

Norma

When you’ve eaten your fill of French fare, give the fresh pasta from Norma a try. This Italian restaurant in the heart of the North Marais boasts a menu rich in both filled and non-filled pastas, including the paccheri alla norma with fried aubergines. A great choice for vegetarians that’s open for dinner on Monday nights (and lunch on both Sundays and Mondays). Norma is also famous for its egg “alla milanese” – an anchovy-scented Scotch-egg-like concoction comprised of a battered and… Read More »Norma

Patio at GrandCoeur restaurant in Paris | Paris by Mouth

GrandCoeur

A beautiful and expansive outdoor terrace tucked inside a hidden courtyard in the Marais, this is the Paris address of Mauro Colagreco, whose restaurant Mirazur was rated as the World’s Best in 2022. GrandCoeur offers a Mediterranean menu full of fresh fish, with a few vegetarian & carnivorous options. It’s open every day and is a good option for larger groups.  GRANDCOEUR 41 Rue du Temple, 75004Open every day for lunch and dinnerReservations online or at +33 1 58 28 18 90… Read More »GrandCoeur

Benoît

Open since 1912, this picture-postcard Paris bistro serves elevated and expensive French food.

L'Ami Louis restaurant in Paris | Paris by Mouth

L’Ami Louis

L’Ami Louis is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Paris. It’s dark and dramatic, with white jacketed servers bringing overflowing plates of snails, foie gras, and other classic French dishes. The roast chicken, with its accompanying tower of shoestring fries, is as good as everyone says it is. But L’Ami Louis is also one of the most clubby restaurants in Paris. It’s filled with regulars, it’s hard to get a table, and the prices are high enough to scare… Read More »L’Ami Louis

Les Enfants du Marché

Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the surprising combinations on Japanese chef Masahide Ikuta’s unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.

Dessance restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Dessance

Dessance restaurant in the Marais is becoming a destination for vegetarians, thanks to the “Irresistible Vegetarian” tasting menu for 64€. Omnivores have plenty of options, too, including their own tasting menu for 72€. It’s a pretty two-level space that’s filled with plants, very near the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, one of our favorite spots in Paris. Recommended for Great Vegetarian Food in Paris. 74 Rue des Archives, 75003 Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner (closed Sunday & Monday)Reservations online or… Read More »Dessance

ob la di affogato cafe in paris | parisbymouth.com

Ob-La-Di Café

Ob-La-Di might be the most Instagrammed café of the 2015 rentrée, but there’s real substance at this stylish spot in the Haut Marais. Most of the baked goods are made in-house, and many of them manage to be vegan and gluten-free, and still actually taste good. Coffee is expertly prepared with Lomi beans by Lloyd, formerly of Boot Café, who also curates a killer playlist most days. Creative offerings include an affogato made with cookie dough ice cream, horchata, a vegetarian burger, and avocado toast that is worth an eye-popping €9 price tag due to the homemade purple potato bread and chimichurri sauce, plus pomegranate seeds.

— Catherine Down, September 2015


An Absolute Favorite

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Cosi restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Cosi

The sandwiches at this shop — run by Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré of Fish — are made with a focaccia-like bread, right from the oven, with fresh fillings and plenty of vegetarian choices. Open every day.

L'Ambroisie Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

L’Ambroisie

Practical Information Address: 9 place des Vosges, 75004 Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1), Chemin Vert (8) Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner Reservations: Book many weeks in advance Telephone: 01 42 78 51 45 Average price for lunch: More than 100€ Average price for dinner: More than 100€ Style of cuisine: Classic French, haute cuisine Website [slideshow_deploy id=’61950′] Reviews of interest Bruno Verjus (2012) “J’admire Bernard Pacaud pour son obsession de la qualité, son exigence dans… Read More »L’Ambroisie

Les Pâtes Vivantes Chinese restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Les Pâtes Vivantes

Practical information Address: 46 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 75009 Nearest transport: Le Peletier (7) Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome Telephone: 01 45 23 10 21 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Average price for dinner: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Chinese Website   Facebook Additional location Address: 3 rue de Turbigo, 75001 Nearest transport: Étienne Marcel (4) Hours:  Open every day for lunch and dinner Telephone: 01 40 13 08 04 Reviews of interest Table à Découvert (2013) “Tout est mélangé et… Read More »Les Pâtes Vivantes

Grazie restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Grazie

Practical information Address: 91 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8) or Chemin Vert (8) Hours: Open every day for lunch & dinner Reservations: Book a day or two in advance Telephone: 01 42 78 11 96 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 20-39€ Style of cuisine: Italian, pizza, vegetarian options Website [slideshow_deploy id=’57417′] Reviews of interest Le Fooding (2015) “On vient autant chez Grazie pour les cocktails de folie, secoués derrière le massif comptoir par Ricardo et… Read More »Grazie

Miznon

Miznon

Another pita place for the Marais–this annex of an Israeli chain has above average, far more creative offerings than your corner kebab stand.

Le Mary Celeste

The people behind Candelaria are back with a new place serving wild oysters by the piece, outstanding small plates, serious cocktails, natural wine, and craft beer.

Candelaria in Paris

Candelaria

With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has officially changed the game, and people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar, staffed by Experimental Cocktail Club grads.