With its chili jam-slathered sandwiches and extra-salty chocolate cookies, Gramme could easily be found in London or Brooklyn. But Gramme shouldn’t be dismissed as a watery import – the food is excellent, and the vibe is very local. Their signature dwich (this is how Parisians now refer to sandwiches) is the sort of thing I want to eat every weekend – a runny egg with herbs, chili jam, copious herbs, and either sausage or charred broccolini on a fresh brioche bun. Their… Read More »Gramme
In the Marais
Fabula is an ephemeral restaurant inside the courtyard at the Musée Carnavalet that operates from May through September. This Marais museum about the history of Paris is worth a visit anyway, and now you can have dinner inside their stunning 16th century courtyard. Chef Julien Dumas (Le Saint-James) and mixologist Remy Sauvage (L’Artésian in London) have composed a menu of cold plates and chilly cocktails that are perfect for those hot summer evenings when you don’t want to eat too… Read More »Fabula
Le Mazenay is a modest bistro that’s serving classic French food with subtle Vietnamese accents. The restaurant is named after the village in Burgundy where chef Denis Groison was born, and the wine list reflects his ties to this region. But Groison grew up to travel the world, cooking in Singapore and Hanoi, and marrying a Vietnamese woman named Lan who very expertly oversees the dining room of their mom and pop restaurant in the Marais. He makes simple and… Read More »Le Mazenay
Bofinger is a beautiful old brasserie in the Marais that serves Alsatian dishes like choucroute and flammekueche. A lot of people have special memories tied to Bofinger, and I don’t want to talk them out of their attachments. But Bofinger (pronounced bo-fan-zhay) is not a destination for food lovers. The space is enormous, which makes it easy to get in without a reservation at the last minute. But their size is the restaurant’s downfall. It’s hard to flag a server… Read More »Bofinger
Le Trumilou is the sort of unfussy basic bistro that we want to love. Situated along the Seine and with plenty of space to welcome groups and last minute bookings, this would be an affordable gem if the food were edible. In our experience, it isn’t.
Datsha Underground is a modern and creative spot in the Marais that’s really more scene than restaurant. It feels like it has been designed for a fashion week clientele, right down to the vegan and vegetarian options and the (not really) “hidden” cocktail bar Spootnik in the basement.
I really wanted to like this shoebox sized restaurant in the Marais. They seem sincere, but my single visit was a disaster. Their server couldn’t handle the small number of tables crammed between the stone walls. We spent an excruciatingly long time without anything to drink and between every course. The Japanese inflected dishes, when they arrived, were either confused or forgettable. I brought a friend for her one big meal in Paris and felt so sorry afterwards. ILÔ 6… Read More »Ilô
Grande Brasserie has a lot of things going for it. The vintage décor, in the space that used to be Le Petit Bofinger, is gorgeous. Light streams in through the large windows, and the walls are adorned beautiful old murals and posters. Owner Adrien Spanu has a lot of restaurant friends who helped him put together one of the best wine lists in Paris (hint: it looks a lot like the ones you’ll find at Semilla and Fish). It’s centrally… Read More »Grande Brasserie
The Bistrot des Tournelles opened in 2022 and was named “Best Bistro of 2023” by Le Fooding. They’re not the only ones who raved – I know plenty of people who loved their experience here. I found it to be pretty good, but certainly not the best of the year. Classic desserts like crème brûlée, tarte Tatin and chocolate mousse were delicious. Salmon gravlax and oeufs mayo starters were “correct” and tasty. Two dishes were downright bad – the croque… Read More »Bistrot des Tournelles
Capitaine is a modern bistro tucked into a quiet Marais street just south of the Place des Vosges. The decor is pure (Brittany?) bistro, with bare wooden tables, moleskine banquettes, and assorted maritime kitsch. The menu appears at first glance to match this bistro vibe, but look closely: duck breast is dotted with prik pao sauce, raw oysters are garnished with shredded carrot, chile and peanuts, and fraise de veau (an intestinal membrane) carries the flavors of mapo tofu.
Parcelles is a wonderful new addition to the Marais. They’re a modern bistro serving classic dishes like sweetbreads and stuffed cabbage with very thoughtful updates. The dining room is lovely, service is kind, and the wine list is killer. Chef Julien Chevalier doesn’t change his menu very often, but it’s reliably good. PARCELLES 13 Rue Chapon, 75003Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerClosed SundayReservations online or at +33 1 43 37 91 64 OUR PHOTOS OF PARCELLES IN OTHER WORDS Alexander Lobrano (2022)… Read More »Parcelles
Anne is a one-star restaurant in the Marais at Le Pavillon de la Reine hotel. The kitchen is overseen by Mathieu Pacaud, son of Bertrand Pacaud, chef of the nearby three-star L’Ambroisie. Pacaud the younger has a history of “signing menus” at extravagant restaurants, many of them in luxury hotels. The food is delicious, but the main draw is the chance to dine in a beautiful courtyard that serves as the entrance to Le Pavillon de la Reine hotel. It’s… Read More »Anne
Acte II is a restaurant in the Marais from chef Masahide Ikuta. It pains me to say that I don’t recommend this restaurant, because it has one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. When I came out of the elevator (you have to hunt and find one to reach this rooftop restaurant) I actually gasped to see the sun setting over the gorgeously glowing buildings of the Marais. However, the food is a muddled mess.
Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.
Carboni’s is an Italian restaurant in the Marais that replaced Carbón, in the same space and from that same team. Their change of concept followed a fire and a pandemic, and has drawn a particularly Parisian crowd who seem not to know that this is not Amatriciana. Dishes like the giant veal chop are highly Instagrammable, and most taste pretty good. I particularly liked my starter of artichokes with bottarga. They’re a good option for groups, especially ones that include… Read More »Carboni’s
Breizh Café is by far our favorite crêperie in Paris. Traditionalists like me, who always order a complète (ham, cheese, egg), appreciate the higher quality organic ingredients and the crispy lacy edges of their buckwheat galettes. More adventurous hunters can look to the daily and seasonal specials to top their galettes with upgrades like sea scallops and smoked duck breast. Dessert crêpes offer a few Japanese touches like ginger and yuzu alongside classic constructions with apples and ice cream. You can begin… Read More »Breizh Café Marais
When you’ve eaten your fill of French fare, give the fresh pasta from Norma a try. This Italian restaurant in the heart of the North Marais boasts a menu rich in both filled and non-filled pastas, including the paccheri alla norma with fried aubergines. A great choice for vegetarians that’s open for dinner on Monday nights (and lunch on both Sundays and Mondays). Norma is also famous for its egg “alla milanese” – an anchovy-scented Scotch-egg-like concoction comprised of a battered and… Read More »Norma
Le Collier de la Reine is a a trendy new spot for seafood in the northern Marais. Go for the oysters, fries and people watching. You might be tempted to stray from the seafood platter and order one of the cooked dishes. Don’t do it. Stick with the oysters, langoustines and other briny options, and be sure to order at least one side of fries – they might be the best in Paris. LE COLLIER DE LA REINE 57 Rue… Read More »Le Collier de la Reine
Bouillon République is a very affordable spot for classic French dishes. They’re open all day with continuous service, which makes them a good options for parents with young children or anyone else who needs to eat early. They also serve late, making them a good idea if you’re hungry after a concert. The restaurant is massive and can handle very large parties, so we’ve included them in our guide to Paris restaurants that are good for groups. BOUILLON RÉPUBLIQUE 39… Read More »Bouillon République
Auberge Nicolas Flamel is a modernist restaurant situated in one of the oldest buildings (1407) in the Marais. Helmed by chef Grégory Garimbay, who previously worked for Alain Ducasse, it currently holds one Michelin star and offers tasting menus priced at 128€ and 145€ and 178€.
A beautiful and expansive outdoor terrace tucked inside a hidden courtyard in the Marais, this is the Paris address of Mauro Colagreco, whose restaurant Mirazur was rated as the World’s Best in 2022. GrandCoeur offers a Mediterranean menu full of fresh fish, with a few vegetarian & carnivorous options. It’s open every day and is a good option for larger groups. Included among our 50 Favorite Restaurants in Paris. GRANDCOEUR 41 Rue du Temple, 75004Open every day for lunch and dinnerReservations… Read More »GrandCoeur
L’Ami Louis is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Paris. It’s dark and dramatic, with white jacketed servers bringing overflowing plates of snails, foie gras, and other classic French dishes. The roast chicken, with its accompanying tower of shoestring fries, is as good as everyone says it is. But L’Ami Louis is also one of the most clubby restaurants in Paris. It’s filled with regulars, it’s hard to get a table, and the prices are high enough to scare most tourists away. That’s probably by design. If you need to ask how much the roast chicken costs (it inches closer to 100 euros every year), then L’Ami Louis is probably not for you. It remains one of our favorite places in Paris, when someone else has gone to the trouble to book and ideally when someone else is paying.
Dessance restaurant in the Marais is becoming a destination for vegetarians, thanks to the “Irresistible Vegetarian” tasting menu for 64€. Omnivores have plenty of options, too, including their own tasting menu for 72€. It’s a pretty two-level space that’s filled with plants, very near the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, one of our favorite spots in Paris. Recommended for Great Vegetarian Food in Paris. 74 Rue des Archives, 75003 Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner (closed Sunday & Monday)Reservations online or… Read More »Dessance
Ob-La-Di might be the most Instagrammed café of the 2015 rentrée, but there’s real substance at this stylish spot in the Haut Marais. Most of the baked goods are made in-house, and many of them manage to be vegan and gluten-free, and still actually taste good. Coffee is expertly prepared with Lomi beans by Lloyd, formerly of Boot Café, who also curates a killer playlist most days. Creative offerings include an affogato made with cookie dough ice cream, horchata, a… Read More »Ob-La-Di Café
The sandwiches at this shop — run by Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré of Fish — are made with a focaccia-like bread, right from the oven, with fresh fillings and plenty of vegetarian choices. Open every day.
Even if I can never afford to return, I’m so happy that L’Ambroisie exists. While many of his peers are shifting their focus to more modest ingredients, Bernard Pacaud is still laying on the caviar. While service elsewhere has become increasingly solicitous, L’Ambroisie remains a model of aristocratic snobbery. I’ll be sad the day their sumptuous dining rooms close for good, and will treasure the memory of a meal I only partially enjoyed in the moment because I was mostly holding my breath. I reviewed L’Ambroisie as part… Read More »L’Ambroisie
Practical information Address: 46 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 75009 Nearest transport: Le Peletier (7) Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome Telephone: 01 45 23 10 21 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Average price for dinner: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Chinese Website Facebook Additional location Address: 3 rue de Turbigo, 75001 Nearest transport: Étienne Marcel (4) Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner Telephone: 01 40 13 08 04 Reviews of interest Table à Découvert (2013) “Tout est mélangé et… Read More »Les Pâtes Vivantes
Practical information Address: 91 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8) or Chemin Vert (8) Hours: Open every day for lunch & dinner Reservations: Book a day or two in advance Telephone: 01 42 78 11 96 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 20-39€ Style of cuisine: Italian, pizza, vegetarian options Website [slideshow_deploy id=’57417′] Reviews of interest Le Fooding (2015) “On vient autant chez Grazie pour les cocktails de folie, secoués derrière le massif comptoir par Ricardo et… Read More »Grazie
With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has officially changed the game, and people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar, staffed by Experimental Cocktail Club grads.