Double
Tsuyoshi Yamakawa
Modern & Creative
Ellsworth (NOW CLOSED)
Ellsworth closed in April 2025 ELLSWORTH 34 rue de Richelieu, 75001Open for dinner Tuesday through SaturdayClosed Sunday & MondayReservations online or at +33 1 42 60 59 66 STILL SEARCHING? Our restaurant index organizes the restaurants we’ve anonymously visited since 2021 by location and ranks them all as: SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER
Dandelion
Dandelion is my kind of place. It’s off the beaten path in a village-y corner of the 20th. It’s affordable, filled with locals and flying a little under the radar. It’s so much better than you expect it to be – from the friendly service to the thoughtful wine list (mostly but not entirely natural) to the stunningly beautiful plating as seen in this dish of red tuna with cherries and chili jam. DANDELION 46 Rue des Vignoles, 75020Open Tuesday-Thursday… Read More »Dandelion
FIEF
FIEF is a sleek and modern restaurant in the 11th with a mission to use local ingredients. The name FIEF stands for Fait Ici En France (made here in France) and the restaurant’s goal is to import nothing from outside of France. Their mission is executed with phenomenal expertise by chef Victor Mercier (a Top Chef finalist in 2018) and his team. They’ve earned a Michelin star for their efforts, and are offering both a vegan tasting menu (85€) and… Read More »FIEF
Paulownia
Paulownia is a sincere new restaurant near Nation, run by Tess Duteil and Geoffrey Belin. The couple met while working at Arpège, and their love of vegetables is evident. There was an intricate (and delicious) vegetarian millefeuille main dish on the night of our visit, along with a vegetarian starter. The star of the evening, however, was a sort of porky hot pocket – the petit pâté chaud feuilleté au cochon. Belin also has a way with fish. His barbue… Read More »Paulownia
Godaille
The restaurant Godaille, situated across the street from the charming Square Trousseau, is a wonderful new addition to the Aligre neighborhood. Its ambitions feel modest – they seem to want to be a neighborhood place – and they’re exceeding them with inventive small plates and one of the best steak dishes I’ve ever tasted. Go with a relaxed bunch for a casual and very delicious meal with natural-leaning wines. GODAILLE 9 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerClosed… Read More »Godaille
Benjamin Schmitt
Benjamin Schmitt is becoming known for his cassoulet – a delicious crock full of creamy and richly flavored beans, nicely browned sausage and decadent duck confit. But aside from that one dish his menu is pretty modern, featuring dishes like licorice-flavored pork loin with anchovy-spiked Swiss chard. The space feels grown up, with deep blue banquettes and glazed tiles. Service is ultra-professional and the wine list is fun. This is a great option near Montmartre for modern & creative cuisine…… Read More »Benjamin Schmitt
Semilla
Semilla is one of our favorite restaurants in Saint-Germain, with an excellent wine list and plenty of options for vegetarians. Open Sunday.
Le Cheval d’Or
Since September 2023, Le Cheval d’Or has been revived by a new team that includes Hanz Gueco (Verjus & Ellsworth), Luis Andrade (Clown Bar), Nadim Smair (David Toutain) and Crislaine Medina, whose wine and service we adored at Le Rigmarole. We revisited in early 2024 and published a review – click the red link below to read more. Le Cheval d’or 21 rue de la Villette, 75019Open Monday to Friday for dinner only Closed Saturday & SundayReservations online or at… Read More »Le Cheval d’Or
Baillotte
Baillotte is a solid option for modern & creative cuisine with choices (not a tasting menu) in Saint-Germain. They’re welcoming to solo diners, have (limited but tasty) vegetarian options, and are open for lunch on Sunday. From the same restaurant group as Narro in the Latin Quarter. BAILLOTTE 16 Rue du Dragon, 75006 Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerOpen Sunday for lunch onlyClosed MondayReservations online or at +33 9 84 29 93 48 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF BAILLOTTE IN… Read More »Baillotte
Le Saint-Sébastien
Le Saint-Sébastien is known for its vegetable-driven (but not vegetarian) cooking and desserts with a savory spin. The 400-reference-strong wine list and impeccable service make this neighborhood restaurant one worth crossing the city for. Now helmed by chef Andrés Solis, the menu features a few subtle twists that highlight his Mexican culinary heritage. They have a beautiful bar, making it a great idea for solo diners and last-minute walk-ins. Recommended for Great Vegetarian Food in Paris. LE SAINT-SÉBASTIEN 42, rue Saint-Sébastien,… Read More »Le Saint-Sébastien
Oktobre
Oktobre is the new name of Kitchen Galerie Bis (KGB) and a new beginning for chef Martin Maumet. Maumet worked for William Ledeuil as associate chef of KGB before purchasing the restaurant to install himself as chef-owner. Much of the team from KGB remains intact, including sommelier and dining room manager Romane Laignel. We previously included KGB among our favorite restaurants in Saint-Germain, but have not yet tried Oktobre, which will open on September 1, 2023.
Vins des Pyrénées
A very useful Marais restaurant, with continuous service every day of the week between 7am-2am, a lot of vegetarian options, and even a kids’ menu.
Colvert
In the same spot as Le Colvert, a restaurant that never really took off, Colvert (sans “le”) has reopened with a new look and a new (Top) chef. Arnaud Baptiste participated in the 2021 season of French Top Chef and his food is, accordingly, wildly creative and over-sauced. But overall, this is a solid option for Saint-Germain – especially since Colvert is open every day of the week. COLVERT 54 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006Open every day for lunch &… Read More »Colvert
A.T.
The restaurant A.T. is the project of Japanese chef Atsushi Tanaka, who serves a technicolor tasting menu in a minimalist dining room. My first visit in 2015 prompted disdain. The dishes seemed to be designed for the early days of Instagram, and didn’t have much depth beyond their pretty looks. Two different tables at dinner contained foreigners watching movies on their iPads. Whatever this place was, I wanted no part of it. Still, I gave A.T. another shot, returning for… Read More »A.T.
Hémicycle
Hémicycle is a new restaurant from Stéphane Manigold that opened in late August 2023 near the Assemblée Nationale. Chef Flavio Lucarini, who we loved at Manigold’s Bistrot Flaubert, leads the kitchen at Hémicycle, along with Aurora Storari, previously the pastry chef at Le Clarence. HÉMICYCLE 5 rue de Bourgogne, 75007 Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerClosed Sunday & MondayReservations online or at +33 6 07 16 18 64 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF HÉMICYCLE IN OTHER WORDS SUBSCRIBE TO OUR… Read More »Hémicycle
Le Servan
Tatiana Levha, formerly at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, and her sister Katia opened this light, airy bistro with a central bar & hand painted ceiling. The short list of offerings changes each day, but expect seasonally driven cuisine inflected with international touches like tandoori spiced beurre blanc atop asparagus or harissa to spice up the line caught hake. Dessert left room for improvement, but otherwise Le Servan had reasonably priced, expertly executed dishes and friendly service in a beautiful space.
Narro
Narro is a partnership between chef Kazuma Chikuda (ex-Le Sot l’Y Laisse), Megumi Terao and Thomas Legrand – a longtime fixture of the Paris natural wine scene. I went on the recommendation from several readers and found it to be sweet, but not a resounding success. Most plates included too many ideas and felt a little muddled. Service was kind but chaotic. Narro was packed packed on the night of our visit, both inside and on their large outdoor terrace,… Read More »Narro
Gramme
With its chili jam-slathered sandwiches and extra-salty chocolate cookies, Gramme could easily be found in London or Brooklyn. But Gramme shouldn’t be dismissed as a watery import – the food is excellent, and the vibe is very local. Their signature dwich (this is how Parisians now refer to sandwiches) is the sort of thing I want to eat every weekend – a runny egg with herbs, chili jam, copious herbs, and either sausage or charred broccolini on a fresh brioche… Read More »Gramme
Le Mermoz
Le Mermoz is a modern bistro with sincere service and an excellent selection of natural wines. What sets it apart from all the other similar bistros in the 11th is that it’s not in the 11th. It’s in the 8th, mere steps from the Champs-Elysées. Thomas Graham’s dishes are seasonal and relatively simple – most have only a few components. Sure, some of them might be pricey, like caviar adorning a beurre-blanc bathed tomato (above). Others might be exotic, like… Read More »Le Mermoz
Tomy & Co.
I fully expected to love Tomy & Co. as much as I did five years ago, and to include it in our list of 50 favorites. It was disappointing.
Ducasse Sur Seine
Alain Ducasse has created a floating restaurant that’s actually good. Ducasse sur Seine docks directly in front of the Eiffel Tower and offers an incredible view of that monument at the beginning as you arrive for your lunch or dinner. It then breaks away for a slow and silent (the boat is electric and soundless) cruise that glides past the most gorgeous Paris monuments during a two-hour circuit. At lunch, there are menus at 95€ (two courses + a beverage),… Read More »Ducasse Sur Seine
Pétrelle
Pétrelle is one of the romantic restaurants in Paris, and it’s also one of the most delicious. Chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot and her team create a beautiful tasting menu that changes every week to reflect the seasons, and Luca Danti ensures that everyone in the dining room feels very well taken care of.
Maison Cluny
This new restaurant from the owner of Le Cornichon occupies prime Latin Quarter real estate with an outdoor terrace looking onto the gardens of the Cluny museum and the vestige of an 8th century convent. It’s a quiet street where you can hear birdsong, and a welcome respite from the tourist bustle near Notre-Dame. MAISON CLUNY 3 Rue de Cluny, 75005Open Tuesday-Saturday from noon to midnightKitchen open from 12-2pm and from 7-10pmClosed Sunday & MondayReservations online or at +33 1… Read More »Maison Cluny
Bonnard
Bonnard is a stylish spot for vegetarian dining in the northern Marais. It’s mostly a dinner spot, with lunch hours on Saturday only. Their menu is short and sweet, like their opening hours. We loved their signature sweet potato gnocchi with parmesan cream, and also the quiche with fresh salad. There’s a large teal booth that can fit a lot of vegetarians (6-8, by our guess). BONNARD 18 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Open Tuesday-Friday for dinner onlyOpen Saturday for lunch &… Read More »Bonnard
Pantagruel
At Pantagruel, a modern & creative restaurant in the Sentier district, each main dish is actually a parade of three smaller ones. Meaty options abound, but vegetables are given star treatment here. Balance and precision are the hallmarks of chef Jason Gouzy’s cuisine at Pantagruel, one of our favorite Paris restaurants.
Elmer
Elmer is a modern bistro In the northern Marais, not far from République. Chef Simon Horwitz (ex-Septime, Pierre Gagnaire) bases his ever-changing menus around impeccable seasonal ingredients and has an affinity for large portions intended to be shared by two or more diners. I recently returned for a solo lunch and was blown away by how good (and sneakily healthy) everything was. Delicious line caught cod was barely napped by sauce matelote and served with charred white asparagus and broccoli.… Read More »Elmer
Dame Augustine
Lilian Douchet opened Dame Augustine in 2022 after making a name for himself on Top Chef. This restaurant near Gobelins offers a là carte options alongside moderately priced tasting menus (48€ and 68€). Douchet’s dishes are creative without being gimmicky. Everything we tasted was perfectly cooked and well-balanced. This is great option for southern Paris, especially on a Sunday. Reservations are accepted up to two months in advance, but last minute bookings are usually possible (this may change as we… Read More »Dame Augustine
Frenchie
Frenchie is the original outpost from Gregory Marchand, a chef who trained with Jamie Oliver in the UK and Danny Meyer in the USA. They hold one Michelin star and serve a no-choice tasting menu with five courses for 140€. The optional wine pairings are usually excellent. FRENCHIE 5 Rue du Nil, 75002Open Monday-Friday for dinner onlyReservations online or at +33 1 40 39 96 19 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF FRENCHIE Our most recent visit (in very low… Read More »Frenchie
Le Chateaubriand
Since Le Chateaubriand opened in 2006, we’ve watched it transform the city’s dining scene and seen it rise and fall in the World’s 50 Best rankings. We returned recently and were delighted to find that it’s still one of our top picks for a casual (not fine dining) tasting menu in Paris. We recommend it for diners who are on the more adventurous side – those who enjoy natural wine and an unfussy, frenetic dining room. Le Chateaubriand may no longer have the… Read More »Le Chateaubriand
Datsha Underground
Datsha Underground is a modern and creative spot in the Marais that’s really more scene than restaurant. It feels like it has been designed for a fashion week clientele, right down to the vegan and vegetarian options and the (not really) “hidden” cocktail bar Spootnik in the basement.
Capitaine
Capitaine is a modern bistro tucked into a quiet Marais street just south of the Place des Vosges. The decor is pure (Brittany?) bistro, with bare wooden tables, moleskine banquettes, and assorted maritime kitsch. The menu appears at first glance to match this bistro vibe, but look closely: duck breast is dotted with prik pao sauce, raw oysters are garnished with shredded carrot, chile and peanuts, and fraise de veau (an intestinal membrane) carries the flavors of mapo tofu.
Flocon
Flocon is a sincere and locavore-leaning new restaurant run by a pair of brothers on the rue Mouffetard.
Mokonuts
This small and charming restaurant in the 11th is a great stop for lunch after exploring the nearby Marché Aligre. So many people agree that you’ll need to book a month six weeks in advance. It’s been seven years since Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama opened Mokonuts, and they only recently started accepting reservations. Book a table and delight in their dishes that seamlessly blend influences from France, Koreitem’s native Lebanon and Hirayama’s native Japan. If you can’t get a reservation, go… Read More »Mokonuts
Mokoloco
Mokoloco is the second address from Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama who run the nearby restaurant Mokonuts. Mokoloco is a kitchen where visiting chefs are invited to shine. Some stay for a short residency, and some stick around for upwards of nine months. Some use this as a launch pad before opening their own place, like Erica Paredes who later opened Reyna. The style of cuisine depends on who’s cooking, but you can expect it to be anything but French.… Read More »Mokoloco
Magma
Chef Ryuya Ono is making a name for himself at Magma with precision cooking and innovative combinations – like this expertly rendered monkfish with broccoli florets, buttermilk, and trout eggs. The dining room is bare and cramped, but the food makes up for it. At lunch, you can order à la carte, select a three course menu for 33€, or do the whole seven course tasting menu for 70€. At night and on weekends, you can order à la carte… Read More »Magma
Acte II
Acte II is a restaurant in the Marais from chef Masahide Ikuta. It pains me to say that I don’t recommend this restaurant, because it has one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. When I came out of the elevator (you have to hunt and find one to reach this rooftop restaurant) I actually gasped to see the sun setting over the gorgeously glowing buildings of the Marais. However, the food is a muddled mess.
Café Compagnon
An all-day cafe in Sentier from Charles Compagnon, the serial restauranteur behind Le Richer and 52 Faubourg Saint-Denis. Café Compagnon is open early for breakfast and coffee and stays open until 11pm. A great place to pop in for a bite when strolling around the rue Montorgeuil, and one of the only Compagnon spots that accepts reservations. CAFÉ COMPAGNON 22-26 Rue Léopold Bellan, 75002 Open Monday-Friday from 8am-11pmOpen Saturday & Sunday from 9am-11pmReservations online or at +33 9 77 09 62 24… Read More »Café Compagnon
Pouliche
Chef Amandine Chaignot has been a judge on the French show MasterChef for the better part of a decade. At her restaurant Pouliche, she puts out pretty plates for an Instagram crowd in a dining room that could be ripped from the pages of a West Elm catalog. The menu is heavy with vegetarian options – Wednesday is entirely vegetarian – and the space is filled with pretty young things. Portions are tiny. Read our full review of Pouliche. 11 Rue d’Enghien,… Read More »Pouliche
Café les Deux Gares
This is affordable and really well-executed modern bistro fare, based on exceptional seasonal ingredients. Café les Deux Gares may be off the beaten track but it’s worth the journey, Especially on a Monday night. It’s also great for lunch, with beautiful natural light and a dining room full of regulars. Café les Deux Gares has been included among our favorite restaurants in Paris. CAFÉ LES DEUX GARES 1 Rue des Deux Gares, 75010Open Monday-Saturday from 9am-midnight. Closed Sunday.Reservations online or at +33… Read More »Café les Deux Gares
Les Enfants du Marché
Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.
Hugo & Co.
Hugo and Co is the second Paris restaurant from chef Tomy Gousset, who we first encountered and loved at Tomy & Co. In contrast to the latter, which is now Michelin-starred and more formal, Hugo & Co is the more playful (and affordable) little brother. HUGO & CO. 48 rue Monge, 75005Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.Reservations online or at +33 9 53 92 62 77 OUR PHOTOS OF HUGO & CO. Most recent visit Previous… Read More »Hugo & Co.
Fish la Boissonnerie
This popular restaurant and wine bar run by Drew Harre and Juan Sanchez is a sort of Anglo haven, excellent for a quick glass, a solo dinner at the bar, or for those times when you’re just tired of speaking French. The wine list at Fish la Boissonnerie is populated by small producers, many of them organic and bio-dynamic, with fair prices and plenty of options by the glass. They’re open every day, and we often find ourselves here on… Read More »Fish la Boissonnerie
Jeanne-Aimée
Jeanne-Aimée is a polished restaurant in a sleepy corner of the 9th arrondissement. Chef Sylvain Parisot bases his menu around impeccable seasonal produce, with creative and delicious results. Service is thoughtful and the room is well-designed. Nothing feels particularly inventive or cool, but this is a nice place to go when you want to focus on the person across the table – especially on a Monday night. We’ve included Jeanne-Aimé among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. JEANNE-AIMÉE 3 Rue… Read More »Jeanne-Aimée
KGB (NOW CLOSED)
NOW CLOSED
Auberge Nicolas Flamel
Auberge Nicolas Flamel is a modernist restaurant situated in one of the oldest buildings (1407) in the Marais. Helmed by chef Grégory Garimbay, who previously worked for Alain Ducasse, it currently holds one Michelin star and offers tasting menus priced at 128€ and 145€ and 178€.
Quinsou
At Quinsou, chef Antonin Bonnet is serving beautiful food in a serene (bordering on sleepy) dining room just south of Le Bon Marché. At night, the five course tasting menu for 125€ includes an excellent cheese course – our most recent visit included Brie de Meaux under a shower of black truffle. A four course tasting menu is available at lunch for 95€. A lovely spot for a quiet or romantic dinner. QUINSOU 33 Rue de l’Abbé Grégoire, 75006Open for… Read More »Quinsou
Milagro
In a neighborhood that isn’t necessarily known for fresh flair, Milagro bears its miraculous name well. Steps from his popular Zia, which brought craft coffee and brunch to this street overlooking the Eiffel Tower, Chef Justin Kent (ex-Arpège and Agapé Substance) is serving a creative mashup of the New Mexican flavors of his childhood and the techniques gleaned from his French training. Think Peruvian bass ceviche with leche de tigre or a truly excellent celery root steak served with broccolini… Read More »Milagro
Macéo
Macéo is a light and airy restaurant near the Palais Royal from Mark Williamson (Willi’s Wine Bar), serving creative dishes with plenty of vegetarian options. It’s a good place to book for large groups, and for dinner on Monday. The wine list is incredible. MACÉO 15 rue des Petits-Champs, 75001Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinnerOpen Saturday for dinner onlyClosed SundayReservations online or at +33 1 42 97 53 85 OUR PHOTOS OF MACÉO IN OTHER WORDS Figaroscope (2008) “De très… Read More »Macéo
Marso et Co
Following his Michelin-starred Tomy & Co and much acclaimed 5th arrondissement Hugo & Co, Chef Tomy Gousset brings his internationally-inspired flair to the 13th with Marso et Co. Mediterranean flavors reign supreme at this latest offering. MARSO ET CO 16 Rue Vulpian, 75013Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinnerClosed Saturday & SundayReservations online or at +33 1 45 87 37 00 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF MARSO ET CO SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER
Cuisine
This Japanese-accented bistro from chef Takao Inazawa and oenophile Benoit Simon opened to critical acclaim in 2019.
Le Bon La Butte
This bistro is a standout in a neighborhood often defined by industrial cuisine.
Pirouette
At this beautiful restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles, serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Chef Tomy Gousset departed in 2016 to open Tomy & Co, but Pirouette remains a solid bet.
Clown Bar
In 2016, the team from Saturne took over a historic bar near the Cirque d’Hiver and installed chef Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant) in the kitchen. Atsumi’s dishes dominated Instagram for a solid two years, and Clown Bar became one of the town’s most difficult reservations to snag. The Saturne team (and restaurant) has since dissolved amid rumors of wine theft and partner animosity. Atsumi has moved on to open Maison. Clown Bar remains open, and Atsumi’s iconic creations, including the brain and… Read More »Clown Bar
Café du Coin
Fresh off Paris’ greatest resto reboot of recent years – transforming the defunct destination Restaurant Bones into the beloved seven-day mainstay Restaurant Jones – chef-restaurateur Florent Ciccoli doubled down on the Voltaire neighborhood in late 2017, opening Café du Coin with the aid of frequent collaborator Greg Back (L’Orillon, Les Pères Populaires).
Martin
Former Au Passage bartender Löic Martin opened his eponymous bar-restaurant in late 2014 in the shell of a former PMU betting parlor, placing his money on sincere small-plates, a populist booze program, and a boldly central location.
Dessance
Dessance restaurant in the Marais is becoming a destination for vegetarians, thanks to the “Irresistible Vegetarian” tasting menu for 64€. Omnivores have plenty of options, too, including their own tasting menu for 72€. It’s a pretty two-level space that’s filled with plants, very near the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, one of our favorite spots in Paris. Recommended for Great Vegetarian Food in Paris. 74 Rue des Archives, 75003 Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner (closed Sunday & Monday)Reservations online or… Read More »Dessance
Le Richer
An offshoot of one our absolute favorites L’Office, you can stop by this former corner café at all hours of the day and night (sans reservation) for snacks, small plates, decent coffee, cocktails, or an evening meal.
52 Faubourg Saint Denis
After L’Office and Le Richer (one of our favorite new openings of 2013), Charles Compagnon is back with another gift for the Faubourg. If he has run out of ideas for restaurant names, the same cannot be said for the dishes coming out of his kitchen. The compact menu with 3-4 choices per course contains plenty that we want to eat: well-roasted duck with coco beans, corn and kale, and an egg yolk ravioli with ham and mushrooms that was satisfyingly reminiscent of one of… Read More »52 Faubourg Saint Denis
Ze Kitchen Galerie
East meets west at William Ledeuil’s much-lauded Ze Kitchen Galerie.
Gare au Gorille
Just steps from the train tracks leading to and from the Saint-Lazare train station, Gare au Gorille is the new project from two Septime alums, Marc Cordonnier (Grébaut’s former sous-chef) and his front-of-house partner Louis Langevin. With a hip hop soundtrack and aspirations no grander than to be a good bistro, the quality of food they are putting out will nonetheless attract the sort of globetrotting gastronome crowd that they are fleeing from at Septime. Lunch on a cold December day was a study in simplicity and… Read More »Gare au Gorille
Neva Cuisine
Contemporary French cooking in a polished, airy room from a couple of Grande Cascade alums.
L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon
The original L’Atelier, in what’s now a global empire.