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Les Enfants du Marché

Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the surprising combinations on Japanese chef Masahide Ikuta's unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.

Eels

We haven’t yet reviewed this restaurant, but you can scroll down to find the practical information and to read what others are saying about Eels.

Practical Information

Address: 27 Rue d’Hauteville, 75010
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday from 12:30-14:00 and from 19:30-22:00.
Telephone: +33 (0)1 42 28 80 20
Website    Online Booking    Facebook   Instagram

What people are saying

  • The Financial Times (2018) Nicholas Lander says that his lunch “delivered everything I look for in a meal anywhere: the kind of hospitality I would expect from someone in their own home combined with ultra-professional cooking of straight-forward ingredients.”
  • Le Monde (2018) François Simon calls this a serene spot, noting that chef Adrien Ferrand undoubtedly earned that characteristic alongside his mentor William Ledeuil from Ze Kitchen Galerie. He calls it a sort of comfort food, with plates that are brilliantly balanced and service that is friendly and efficient.
  • Le Fooding (2017) says that Eels “ticks off all the necessary boxes for a Parisian faubourgeois affaire: polished recipes, well-sourced ingredients, unadulterated wines and zero nonsense.” They rave about a dish of smoked eel with licorice-infused browned butter and the wines selected by Félix le Louarn.
  • Alexander Lobrano (2017) calls Eels the best new table of the rentrée “due to the superbly witty, inventive and assured cooking of chef Adrien Ferrand.” He praises the front-of-house staff for delivering “a flawless and charming service experience around the outstanding cooking of Adrien Ferrand.”
  • L’Express (2017) raves about the signature dish with “small sections of lightly smoked fish, hazelnut butter and hazelnut chips for the roundness, a touch of liquorice for spicy sweetness, shoots of oxalis and green apple for freshness.”
  • Dessance

    We’ve visited and will be adding our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see our photos and what others have said about Dessance.

    Practical information

    Address: 74 rue des Archives, 75003
    Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Rambuteau (11)
    Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday continuously for lunch & dinner
    Telephone: +33 1 42 77 23 62
    Website   Facebook    Instagram

    Dessance in pictures

    Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth

    What people are saying about Dessance

    David Lebovitz (2015) “Like most experimental food, not everything is a hit. A starter of mustard leaf sorbet that was paired with mirabelle plums and smoked cheese (shown up above) tasted – well…like a frozen puree of mustard leaves. But a grated carrot sorbet with pea puree and pea shoots was excellent. And I loved the ripe strawberries with parsley ice cream and fruit leather that led the way to the final course.”

    The Financial Times (2014) “On a recent visit, the four-course degustation menu began on a savory note – raw tuna paired with tangy orbs of red and white currants, droplets of peach purée, avocado sorbet, and a red onion emulsion that was so good I’d like to suggest they sell it as a condiment.”

    Sugared & Spiced (2014) “This second visit to Dessance was overall a pleasant experience. Some dishes were a bit too much for me in terms of flavor combination, but Dessance still remains an interesting address to visit for its unusual creations. For a change of the Paris sweet scene, why not?”

    The New York Times (2014) “The menu at Dessance doesn’t run toward the pastries, cakes and tarts that a desserts-only concept might imply, but rather offers a small but intriguing collection of dishes that can be eaten as both desserts and main courses, including, for example, a surprising combination of violet-colored vitelotte potato purée with raw and poached apples, arugula and marjoram granité.”

    Le Figaro (2014) “Plutôt convaincante à prouver, par un jeu de compositions biseautées, que l’idée du repas en mode sucré ne se réduit pas au final d’un repas.”

    Table à Découvert (2014) “Le menu ne se substitue pas à un repas (à moins qu’il y ait des adeptes), mais se déguste comme un moment à part, après un plat salé dégusté ailleurs (même s’il y a 2,3 propositions de salées comme des madeleines au roquefort, une assiette de comté, coing et scones ou un foie gras mi-cuit, butternut, fruit de la passion, brioche).”

    Astrance

    Address: 4, rue Beethoven, 75016
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday, Sunday & Monday.
    Telephone: +33 1 40 50 84 40
    Online Booking / Website / Facebook / Instagram

    COVID-19 UPDATE:
    Astrance is currently closed until further notice.

    Astrance in Photos

    In Other Words

    As of early 2020, work has begun on a new l’Astrance at the former location of le Jamin, set to open summer 2020.

    Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “It’s a sanctuary where you can revel in the pleasures of such dishes as spinach with spicy piquillo peppers, chili pepper sorbet, and baby ravioli stuffed with a tangy bite of citron.”

    Office

    Practical information

    Address: 3 rue Richer, 75009
    Nearest transport: Cadet (7), Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
    Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 70 67 31
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    L’Office in photos

    What people are saying

    Have you been? Leave your own opinion about L’Office in the comments!

    John Talbott (2014) “The newest chef, Konrad Ceglowski, is a master of protein with fruit and veggies… seduced, successfully, by the sauteed calamari with a creamy fennel sauce, zucchini and squid ink.  It was superb, no other word for it.”

    Figaroscope (2011) “De jolies surprises dans des formules à prix doux : velouté de coco et lardo di Colonnata pour l’onctuosité, mariage détonnant de poulpe, os à moelle et citron, poulet tendre parfaitement rôti, girolles et panais. Une belle maîtrise qui s’affiche jusqu’au dessert…”

    Alexander Lobrano (2011) “I was impressed by [former chef] O’Donnell’s technically impeccable and very personal Italian accented bistro cooking…This is a terrific little restaurant, though—and also an excellent buy for the money.”

    John Talbott (2011) “…superbly priced lunch menus…the pork belly with tomato, egg and rocket and…the pulpo with bone marrow and lemon…were tasty, very tasty.”

    Table à Décourvert (2011) “un style entre les irrésistibles tables du moment (Septime, Frenchie, Autour d’un Verre) et le bon vieil Office que l’on aimait…Allez-y!”

     

     

     

     

     

    Pirouette

    At this beautiful restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles, serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Chef Tomy Gousset departed in 2016 to open Tomy & Co, but Pirouette remains a solid bet.

    Fish (La Boissonnerie)

    This popular restaurant and wine bar run by Drew Harre and Juan Sanchez is a sort of Anglo haven, excellent for a quick glass, a solo dinner at the bar, or for those times when you’re just tired of speaking French. The wine list is populated by small producers, many of them organic and bio-dynamic, with fair prices and plenty of options by the glass. They’re open every day, and we often find ourselves here on a Sunday or Monday when so many other restaurants are closed. Compared to their sister restaurant Semilla, the more gastronomic option across the street, Fish is the reliable bistro and a genuine Saint-Germain institution.

    52 Faubourg Saint Denis

    After L’Office and Le Richer (one of our favorite new openings of 2013), Charles Compagnon is back with another gift for the Faubourg. If he has run out of ideas for restaurant names, the same cannot be said for the dishes coming out of his kitchen. The compact menu with 3-4 choices per course contains plenty that we want to eat: well-roasted duck with coco beans, corn and kale, and an egg yolk ravioli with ham and mushrooms that was satisfyingly reminiscent of one of our favorite dishes at L’Office. Beyond the very good wine list, special attention has been paid to other liquids, starting with their own café Compagnon (roasted by Coutume), including a beer called La Maryse created in collaboration with Dirk Naudrs from De Proef, and finishing with a selection of very special small batch eaux de vie from Christoph Keller at the Stählemühle distillery. Like at Le Richer, this place is open every day with continuous service from 8am to midnight. No reservations, but you can wait (or eat, or drink) at the bar. 

    Papillon

    Address: 8, rue Messonier, 75017
    Hours: Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
    Telephone: +33 1 56 79 81 88
    Website / Facebook / Instagram

    COVID-19 UPDATE:
    Papillon has reopened.

    Papillon in Photos

    Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth

    In Other Words

    John Talbott (2016) “The best/most innovative meal I’ve had in 3 weeks.”

    Les Grands Ducs (2016) “La carte est courte, c’est le moins que l’on puisse dire, et le menu déjeuner (choix imposé), à 36 €, une toute relative bonne affaire. Mais le talent est là. Car côté cuisine, ce papillon ne manque pas de couleurs. Ni de  vivacité. L’influence des années Ducasse y est bien présente, dans une forme de simplicité et de vérité rendue au produit dont les saveurs sont présentées sans artifice inutile… Seuls gros bémols, un niveau sonore beaucoup trop bruyant et un service en surnombre et pourtant débordé.”

    Elmer

    Address: 30 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, 75003
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Open Saturday for dinner only. Closed Sunday & Monday.
    Telephone: +33 1 43 56 22 95
    Website / Facebook / Instagram

    Our Review

    We’ve visited and will be posting our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see photos and what others have said about Elmer. 

    Elmer in Pictures


    In Other Words

    John Talbott (2016) “They were among the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere – moist on the inside, crispy on the outside, tasting of wood and Southern sauce.”

    Biondi

    Practical information

    Address: 118 rue Amelot, 75011
    Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9)
    Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 00 90 18
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French, Argentinean
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Paris Bouge (2016) “De la côte de bœuf à partager pour deux, ris de veau ou Saint-Jacques jusqu’au duo langoustine et pomme de terres, la braise nourrie au feu de bois enflamme les assiettes à presque tous les coups! Et quand la flamme argentine s’estompe, on s’extasie devant un millefeuille au foie gras et anguille fumée d’anthologie : gras onctueux et fumaison fusionnent et s’électrifient à coups de pickles de betterave et d’un condiment agrumes.”

    Le Figaro (2016) “Cœur de bœuf fumé, déclinaison de topinambours: étonnant! Carré de sanglier, salsifis grillés, noisettes: charpenté. Tartelette aux pommes, camomille, citron vert: charmante variation de texture.”

    Le Fooding (2015) “On the lunch menu when we were there: an impeccable venison and hazelnut terrine surrounded by cornichons; perfectly cooked line-caught bass with an anchovy and bergamot emulsion that was as fresh as summer dew, enlivened by pink and green radishes; and a fairytale ending with the marriage of chestnut and a fromage blanc ice cream, which was a little over-the-top in terms of presentation.”

    Photo via Biondi’s Facebook page

    A Mere

    Practical information

    Address: 49 rue de l’Echiquier, 75010
    Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9)
    Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 48 00 08 28
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    A Mere in pictures

    What people are saying

    Simon Says (2016) “Ces plats cérébraux ne murmurant que par onomatopées sont servis par des barbus au verbe précis, inspirés, souvent plus intelligents que vous et forcément plus jeunes. Il y a une énergie massive, une colère lointaine ramassée en une assiette toute mignonne.”

    The New York Times (2015) “Zillo serves original but shrewdly composed dishes like green tomatoes with raw yellow pollock, black currants and faisselle, a slightly sour fresh cheese. Inventive main courses — like lamb sweetbreads with roasted cauliflower, beets, rhubarb and muscat grapes — are hearty but fresh.”

    Le Figaro (2015) “Une planque du Xe, un décor en chic sommaire, la cuisine dans la salle, le menu quasi twitté, bref, tout pour plaider le suivisme jusqu’à la petite révélation d’une cuisine dans l’appétence, construite, pas cossarde à travailler cuissons et liaisons.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2015) “All dishes demonstrated that Zillo is a really interesting chef with a wonderful mastery of technique and a nervy new mastery of the scores of taste and texture. I didn’t find a signature in his cooking, yet, but knowing nothing about his mother, I can only assume that the word play in the restaurant’s name refers to his evident love of differing tones of bitterness and acidity as his vector of expression. Already a very good chef, he’s obviously going to become a serious culinary contender in Paris.”

    Le Figaro (2015) “Le chef brésilien Mauricio Zillo propose une courte carte de saison, très créative, changeant régulièrement, avec des intitulés par trois volontairement déconcertants: figues, anguille, roscoff; tomates Green Zebra, maquereau, cassis; cabillaud, rognons, brocoli; veau, mirabelle, fenouil; pêche de vigne, réglisse, noisettes; framboise, moutarde, concombre.”

    Le Fooding (2015) “The Brazilian chef composes a blasphemous menu that’s as concise as it is provocative for a handful of diners seated at the three tables and the bar at lunch and dinner… a bavaroise that was as crazy as it was mustardy, made with cucumber spaghetti, raspberries and shaved frozen oyster for dessert.”

    La Fine Mousse Restaurant

    It should come as no surprise that the Parisian craft beer pioneers behind La Fine Mousse bar would be the first to open a restaurant dedicated to beer and food pairings. Slightly more surprising is just how refined, inventive, and delicious the food here is. Knowledgeable beer sommeliers work closely with the talented chef to present an intelligent set of seasonal small plates, paired with beers from one of the 10 taps or the extensive bottle collection.

    Le Pré Catelan

    Practical information

    Address: Bois de Boulogne, Route de Suresnes, 75016
    Nearest transport:  La Muette (9) or Avenue Henri Martin (RER C), then a 5-minute cab ride or half-hour walk
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a month or more in advance
    Telephone: +33 (0)1 44 14 41 14
    Average price for lunch: More than 100€
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine:  Modern French, Haute Cuisine
    Website

    Reviews of interest

    L’assiette dans les étoiles (2012) “Côté addition, on est plutôt dans la moyenne basse des 3 macarons parisiens. Il faut compter environ 350 à 400€ par personne avec le grand menu et en buvant largement à sa soif. Cela reste cher mais pas exagéré, l’assiette et le service le méritent amplement.”

    Critique gastronomique (2011) “Le(s) plus : Le pavillon Napoléon III, niché dans les profondeurs du Bois de Boulogne, le service.
    Le(s) moins : Le repas plutôt décevant ainsi que l’addition “stratosphérique”.”

    Food Snob (2009) “In creation, composition and construction, the chef seems to want to differentiate himself and shape a distinctive, identifiable style of his own. I admired his willingness (possibly even determination) to be different….But as I alluded to above, originality and inspiration in presentation are to be esteemed and encouraged, but should be applied precisely and effectively. I hate to see this taken too far with savours suffering for superficiality’s sake and I must confess that sometimes it felt like additional dishes and elements on those dishes were there for reasons other than to please my palate.”

    Zébulon

    A second effort from the folks behind Pirouette, here with a chef who trained in Japan and his arsenal of anywhere-East-of-here flavors. The two-course 20€ lunch menu on the day of our visit included gnocchi with gingered sea bass, plus steak with caramelized shallots and tempura shimeji mushrooms. The three-course 45€ menu (available lunch & dinner) is a roster of French standards with exotic inflections, like my dish of perfectly cooked turbot accented with nori and encircled by delicate nests of interwoven fennel and shallot strands.  If there’s anything to shrug about, it’s the interior. Design choices that worked well in the shadowy space of Pirouette appear here, in the shadow of the centuries-old Palais Royal, as painfully new. In any case, Zébulon’s arrival is great news for anyone hoping to eat well before or after a visit to the Louvre, and a welcome addition to the increasingly interesting  (VerjusJuveniles,) Palais Royal quarter. 

    Coretta

    Practical information

    Address: 151 bis rue Cardinet, 75017
    Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
    Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner and Sunday for lunch only
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 26 55 55
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    John Talbott (2016) “Crispy, crunchy, contemporary cuisine.”

    John Talbott (2015) “A vastly better meal and upgraded opinion.”

    Table à Découvert (2015) “Le ris de veau (spécialité de la maison) est servi ici très croustillant à l’extérieur et bien fondant dedans, avec un enchevêtrement de rhubarbe préparée différemment (séché en chips, cru, croquante, fondante) et de céleri grillé. L’acidulé de la rhubarbe va très bien au ris de veau que je n’ai pas arrêté d’arroser de jus (servi dans un pot à côté)… Un bel équilibre entre onctuosité animale et fraîcheur végétale.”

    Les Grands Ducs (2014) “L’accueil et le service ont cette amabilité, cet enthousiasme non feint des tables généreuses et franches. Les assiettes qui sortent du passe allient la gouaille d’une cuisine néo-bourgeoise et la précision d’exécution digne des plus grandes maisons.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2014) “The signatures of Pantaleon’s cooking… which run to an avowed love of vegetables and fruit, a percussion of different acidities, and a love of smoke and charring”.  Now that the restaurant is a few weeks old, he “can whole-heartedly recommend this place, and since they’re planning to serve on the broad terrace out front when the weather gets better, I suspect that it’s going to become even more popular.”

    Le Figaro (2014) “Parmi les premières belles séquences de la nouvelle année, celle-là, comme on les aime: inattendue, pudique, frémissante à bien faire et d’une saine audace à se poster, là où personne ne serait venue la chercher.”

    Patricia Wells (2014) “A win… super contemporary, approachable, just-good-food bistro that’s totally right for the times.”

    L’Express (2014) “Vous aimiez Beatriz Gonzales chez Neva cuisine, l’un des bistrots gastronomiques les plus emballants de Paris ? Vous allez l’adorer chez Coretta, sa seconde adresse!”

    Le Fooding (2014) “Néo-bourgeois en mode gourmand: entrée fraîche d’anguille fumée et quasi de veau cru, bouillon au raifort et massala; ris de veau bien doré, jus de viande, panais rôti, en purée légèrement citronnée et en chips; dessert couleur café en tube, tuiles au sésame et espuma whisky-tonka… Beatriz Gonzales (Neva Cuisine) et Matthieu Marcant (son mari) ont aussi pensé aux grignoteurs, avec quelques jolies botanas.”

    Photo via Coretta’s Facebook page

    Les Affranchis

    Practical information

    Address: 5 rue Henri Monnier, 75009
    Nearest transport: Saint-Georges (12)
    Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
    Telephone: 01 45 26 26 30
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Simon Says (2015) “C’est vivant, très bon et servi à une clientèle sous le charme. Décor oubliable, tables parfois rapprochées (il existe des coins aussi) mais expérience recommandable.”

    John Talbott (2015) “Maybe not L’Ambroisie but pretty darn good.”

    Table à Découvert (2015) “Et moi, j’aime me repaître au restaurant, avoir la sensation de mâcher, de dévorer, quitte à ne rien manger le soir. Le restaurant, je l’aime dans sa fonction nourricière et dégustatrice.”

    Les Grands Ducs (2015) “La recette est efficace : des produits simples, un tour de main de grande maison, un patrimoine exploré et modernisé (pas trop), un vrai goût pour les jus de viande, les fonds, les sauces… Tout ce qu’on aime. Cela donne des nourritures gourmandes et raffinées, sans esbrouffe ni tics de langage.”

    Reviews written under the old management

    L’Express (2011) “Dans une ambiance vintage, nanar au mur et phonographe au comptoir, il envoie, sans casser les codes, une jolie cuisine néobistrotière. Sur l’ardoise, le lard et les marrons sont immergés sous le panais… et le maigre, rôti, sur son beurre basilic-citron, en impose tout autant devant le crémeux de fenouil.”

    John Talbott (2011) “Another fine neighborhood bistrot that was packed to the gills with locals.”

    Figaroscope (2011) “Pleine forme pour le quartier avec ce néobistrot lancé par un frais binôme jouant l’ardoise habile, la cuisine d’entrain et la belle petite manière appliquée à des recettes qui n’en ont pas l’air mais qui, l’air de rien, emballent les bonnes mines du bas Pigalle.”

    Photo courtesy of Les Affranchis’ Facebook page

    Neige d’été

    Practical information

    Address: 12 rue de l’Amiral Roussin, 75015
    Nearest transport: Cambronne (6), Commerce (8), Avenue Émile Zola (10)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 73 66 66
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    The New York Times (2015) “Hideki Nishi dabbles in modern French cuisine including salmon with a Gorgonzola millefeuille.”

    Le Fooding (2014) “A true jewel lost in the land of gluttonous bistros, Neige d’Eté makes the most impeccable French terroir vibrate (vegetables from Annie Bertin, fish from the Etel auction, lobsters from Vincent Doucet…), rebooted by a fundamentalist of proper cooking techniques and neat compositions.”

    Le Figaro (2014) “Bien évidemment, le menu joue le jour le jour, l’unique, la surprise, sans l’ombre d’un choix (3 ou 6 plats selon la formule), réduit aux seules inspirations du susdit jeune chef. Bien sûr, les compositions se tendent à flatter le regard dans un millimétrage paysagé, à discipliner produit dense et cuisson courte, à faire surtout tableau au risque de l’ellipse. En apparence, cette cuisine se veut gracile, immédiate, spontanée. À tenter de la percer, elle se révèle nettement plus méditative.”

    Philippe Toinard (2014) “Et une cuisine à l’unisson, à travers un menu imposé qui débute par de l’encornet poêlé. Taillés en carrés, les morceaux d’encornets forment un chapiteau que l’on entrouvre pour découvrir, un savoureux mélange de girolles, de petits pois, de moules et de riz noir. L’iode se mêle au sucre, le craquant au croquant, le moelleux à l’onctueux. Une belle entrée en matière.”

    Photo via Neige d’été’s Facebook page

    Nakatani

    Practical information

    Address: 27 rue Pierre Leroux, 75007
    Nearest transport: Vaneau (10)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 34 94 14
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Figaroscope (2015) “Homard en chapelure de poutargue, endives à l’orange: le végétal parfait, le crustacé un peu alibi. Volaille de Chalosse, petit chou farci: d’une gourmandise réservée. Moelleux de courge, clémentines marinées: diaphane.”

    The New York Times (2014) “A luminous personal vision of French cuisine, particularly focused on the nation’s produce… his own style relies on a kind of lyricism. Flavors include cubes of raw bonito rolled in poutargue crumbs and garnished with endive that has been braised with orange and Gold Rush apple; perfectly sautéed brill with wilted iceberg lettuce, baby leeks and turnips; and a very herby riff on a sauce gribiche. To wit, it’s light, fresh, full of flavor and very pretty on the plate.”

    John Talbott (2014) “Another Japanese chef scores big time… a phenomenal find.”

    Photo via Nakatani’s Facebook page

    Hexagone

    Practical information

    Address: 85 avenue Kléber, 75016
    Nearest transport: Trocadéro (6, 9), Iéna (9)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 25 98 85
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€ or more than 100€ depending on which tasting menu you choose
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2015) “Du côté des casseroles comme en d’autres circonstances, lorsque les filiations s’en mêlent, pas facile de se faire un prénom. Histoire de boucler les petits clapets de la gastrosophie, Mathieu Pacaud, fils de Bernard (figure de proue du milieu, du côté de L’Ambroisie), se lance, en solo, dans l’ambition d’une première adresse assumant l’envergure.”

    John Talbott (2015) “As I was eating, I thought it was pretty good, but like a Woody Allen movie, after it was over, I wondered what the fuss was all about.  No doubt the guy is reaching for a star or two and probably he’ll get it/them, but it just wasn’t my type of ‘grab you by the guts’ food.”

    Le Monde (2015) “Certes, l’assiette virevolte convenablement avec un brillant filet de maigre de Corse à la marinière et légumes de saison; le vol-au-vent volette dignement avec ses champignons boutons et sa chlorophylle de persil. La question fondamentale revient, toujours la même: y retournera-t-on? La réponse tombe naturellement: ben, non.”

    L’Express (2015) “C’est l’événement de la rentrée! … Et, dans cette valeureuse formule déjeuner à 49 euros, c’est un petit monument de perfection: feuilletage d’une fragilité aérienne, opulente farce de ris de veau, boudin blanc et champignons boutons au coulis de truffe noire, rafraîchie par une puissante crème de persil.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2015) Not only does it serve some exquisitely refined contemporary French cooking that tips its hat at the great traditions of Escoffier, it also has one of the best wine lists of any recent restaurant in Paris… What I find interesting about Pacaud’s new place, though, is that it represents what a talented and ambitious young chef with a serious culinary pedigree… thinks French gastronomy should be about in the 21st century.”


    Press prior to opening on December 29, 2014

    Chefs Pourcel Blog (2014) “Le chef Mathieu Pacaud ouvre ce lundi à Paris – Hexagone -, une nouvelle table mise en scène par les célèbres designers Gilles & Boissier. Mathieu le fils de Bernard ( L’Ambroisie, place des Vosges ) compte bien se faire un nom avec ce nouvel établissement qui s’annonce comme une des adresses les plus en vues de la capitale en 2015. Le restaurant de 1000 m² sur deux niveaux remplace l’ancien hôtel des frères Costes, le Costes K dans le XVIe arrondissement. Il faut compter environ 50 euros au déjeuner et le double le soir, une table gastronomique devrait suivre le trimestre suivant.”

    Le Figaro (2014) “Mathieu Pacaud se réclame, en effet, de la haute-gastronomie même s’il y apporte sa vision, beaucoup plus contemporaine.”

    Le Chef (2014) “… un bar à cocktails, avec des réalisations à la fois créatives et saisonnières mettant l’art de la mixologie à l’honneur. Vient ensuite un restaurant de 72 couverts… Enfin, un restaurant gastronomique ou « cabinet de recherches culinaires » comprenant peu de tables, et dont les plats seront réalisés à partir de produits plébiscités par les clients…  Le tout dans un décor mi-fantastique, mi-surnaturel qui ne devrait laisser personne indifférent.”

    Photo via Hexagone’s Facebook page

    Restaurant AG

    Practical information

    Address: 14 Rue Mondétour, 75001
    Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
    Telephone01 42 61 37 17
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    What people are saying

    These reviews concern the old location in St-Germain before the restaurant moved to Les Halles

    John Talbott (2014) “Star food without star prices… the sum total result was spectacular.”

    Figaroscope (2014) “… une gastronomie de bourgeoisie éclairée, concentrée sur une courte carte dont les recettes se confortent au classicisme (sauces friandes, pâtisseries pâtissières) tout en se conformant au contemporain (cuissons ténues, aromatiques transversales, manières minaudes). Bref, avec pudeur et application, une adresse très Saint-Germain-du-frais.”

    Gare au Gorille

    Address: 68, rue des Dames, 75017
    Hours: Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
    Telephone: +33 1 42 94 24 02 (not answered during service)
    Book Online / Website / Instagram

    COVID-19 UPDATE:
    Gare au Gorille has reopened with some outdoor tables.

    Our Most Recent Visit

    Just steps from the train tracks leading to and from the Saint-Lazare train station, this is the new project from two Septime alums, Marc Cordonnier (Grébaut’s former sous-chef) and his front-of-house partner Louis Langevin. With a hip hop soundtrack and aspirations no grander than to be a good bistro, the quality of food they are putting out will nonetheless attract the sort of globetrotting gastronome crowd that they are fleeing from at Septime.

    Simone

    Practical information

    Address: 33 Boulevard Arago, 75013
    Nearest transport: Les Gobelins (7)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner; Open Saturday for dinner only
    Telephone: 01 43 37 82 70
    Average price for lunch: 10-19€
    Average price for dinner: 30-49€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2013) “Assiettes néo-popu pas trop mal bossées.”

    John Talbott (2013) “All the critics love it, the locals too, so much that they were turning people away even with outside tables but I’ll never get my gang to return.”

    Le Fooding (2013) “Une bande d’amis copains-clopant en plein service, proposant du rab de tables sous les marronniers quand il fait bon, et dedans comme dehors, de chouettes assiettes apéritives (kalamata, saucisson sec, harengs fumés, 4,50 €), une fraîche salade de légumes mandolinés-assaisonnés (fenouil, champignons de Paris, herbes), un sauté de lapin bien servi, orge et olives dans un bon jus.”

    L’Express (2013) “Deux plats très sages: un faux-filet de l’Aubrac et pommes de terre fumées, et un thon rouge de ligne avec des segments de courgettes et d’aubergines. C’est plus rustique mais impeccable, sans oublier des desserts aimablement gourmands.”

    Le Journal du Dimanche (2013)”C’est une oasis du boulevard Arago avec ses quelques petites tables posées sur le trottoir, ses flacons nature, sa cuisine précise, travaillée, maligne, son équipe de joyeux drilles.”

    Photo via Simone’s Facebook page

    Abri

    We have never been disappointed by the excellent modern bistronomy at Abri, but the only way that we have been able to go in the last year has been when someone else had a reservation they couldn't use. No, they will not answer their phone. No, there is no secret strategy. Even if you go in person and ask for a reservation, any reservation, at lunch or dinner for any number of people at any time in the future, the answer will be no. So take it off your list, it's not a functional restaurant if you can't ever go.

    Pages

    Practical information

    Address4 rue Auguste Vacquerie, 75016
    Nearest transport: Kléber (6), George V (1)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 20 74 94
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Simon Says (2015) “Avec un tel bagage, on a parfois le dos qui plie. Ce serait plutôt le contraire. Le chef y a trouvé du  poumon. Sa cuisine ramassée est un concentré se saveurs, sautillant avec talent et déroulant une cuisine chromatique de haute lignée: boeuf de Kobé avec un jus court, des grenailles et des giroles, lotte de l’ile d’Yeu avec un sabayon fumé au bois de pommier; pinta de Pâtis; tartare de veau du limousin  avec poudrage et anchois. C’est bigrement bon, pas donné mais mémorable.”

    John Talbott (2015) “This is the best pork I’ve ever had… but it’s the worst everything else.”

    The New York Times (2014) “… refined and continuously evolving tasting menus. Recent plates included a single flash-grilled langoustine with a yuzu-spiked sabayon and shavings of celery root, all baked in a crust of bread; and a luscious composition of slow-cooked guinea hen breast garnished with a custardlike egg yolk, charred onions and a rich sauce of deeply reduced chicken stock.”

    Goût de News (2014) “Le respect pour les produits d’excellence qu’il déniche se lit dans les yeux de Teshi penché sur une assiette prête à partir en salle. En l’occurrence, un foie gras poêlé et sa déclinaison de maïs, en cromesquis (croquette), en crème et en poudre. Une belle entrée en matière toute en finesse avec un joli contraste de textures. Parfaitement cuit, le lieu jaune accompagné d’un risotto et livèche (plante) a moins de personnalité, presque trop convenu.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2014) “The best new restaurant of La Rentrée 2014… This was a deeply enjoyable meal and a beautiful demonstration of how a Japanese chef can sublimate French technique and produce into a cuisine that reflects both his roots and personality.”

    Les Grands Ducs (2014) “Dans l’assiette on retrouve ce qui fait le charme de nos tables franco-japonaises préférées… une forme de sophistication dépouillée, un raffinement discret, des portions de juste proportions. Un menu unique, dicté par les arrivages du jour, où s’enchainent les émotions les plus diverses.”

    Le Fooding (2014) “Teshi orchestrates it all like clockwork, using the crème de la crème of products from all the terroirs. In his open and scintillating kitchen, the exuberant chef lights the sunny embers of a rare Binchotan charcoal to smoothly cauterize his chuck steak of real Kobe beef, the star of the €65 menu, served with a jus court, new potatoes and chanterelle mushrooms. But the €40 menu is not far behind.”

    Photo via Pages’ Facebook page

    Le Servan

    Tatiana Levha, formerly at L'Arpège and L'Astrance, and her sister Katia opened this light, airy bistro with a central bar & hand painted ceiling. The short list of offerings changes each day, but expect seasonally driven cuisine inflected with international touches like tandoori spiced beurre blanc atop asparagus or harissa to spice up the line caught hake. Dessert left room for improvement, but otherwise Le Servan had reasonably priced, expertly executed dishes and friendly service in a beautiful space.

    Aux Verres de Contact

    This Latin Quarter bistro is the more casual annex of the restaurant Jadis. While it might be fine for certain occasions (if you’re strolling near Notre Dame and want some better-than-average wine and charcuterie), it doesn’t add much to the gastronomic landscape. It’s too expensive to be a neighborhood joint, and too boring to be a cross-town destination. Their selection of snacks and starters mimics the menu of small plates at other wine bars, but they’re less successful and double the price.

    Mon Vieil Ami

    Practical information

    Address: 69 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004
    Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
    Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 40 46 01 35
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Franck Pinay Rabaroust (2014) “Quand une enseigne commence à confondre quantité et qualité, la confiance fout le camp et c’est le début de la fin. C’est également donner la pire image de notre gastronomie – qui se veut amicale par-dessus le marché ! – à des touristes qui continuent de se faire avoir avec un menu en trois services facturé 47,50 euros. À ce tarif-la, ça fait chère l’assiette mal fagotée.”

    Patricia Wells (2011) “..the menu was loaded with fresh, seasonal produce: meaty girolles mushrooms, new carrots and heirloom tomatoes, new potatoes and last-of-season asparagus. Avocados, first-of-season ratatouille, fresh white cocos blancs, zucchini and fennel all starred. I ended up feasting on  a stunning and satisfying all-vegetarian meal…”

    Le Figaro (2010) “Les légumes continuent d’occuper une place prépondérante à la carte, version chic et fraîche avec une crème glacée de chou-fleur ou tendre et chaleureuse avec la cocotte de légumes de saison. On aime les jeux de textures, entre cru et cuit, du chef Frédéric Crochet, qui donne à ses légumes de l’exubérance…”

     

     

     

    Étude

    Practical information

    Address: 14 rue du Bouquet de Longchamp, 75016
    Nearest transport: Iéna (9), Boissière (6)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner and Saturday for dinner only
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 45 05 11 41
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2013) “Langoustines crues, gelée d’oursin, émulsion de pamplemousse: dense.  Magret de canard, sauce cassis: superbe travail de cuisson.  Glace au poivron, coulis de chrysanthème: étonnant.”

    Le Figaro (2013) “Limpide, cristalline, elle joue elle aussi d’un certain ascétisme: le produit, une sauce ou émulsion, un accompagnement.”

    Photo via Étude’s Facebook page

    Axuria

    This is no longer included among the favorite 350 addresses that make up Our Guide to Paris Restaurants. We’ve maintained this page so that you can refer to the practical information and other reviews of interest. Feel free to share your own opinion in the comments.

    Practical information

    Address: 54 avenue Félix Faure, 75015
    Nearest transport: Boucicaut (8)
    Hours: Lunch and dinner, every day
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 45 54 13 91
    Average price for lunch: 20-34€
    Average price for dinner: 35-49€
    Style of cuisine: Bistro, Seafood
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Alexander Lobrano (2012) “… a really serious, well-drilled, and honest neighborhood restaurant…It’s a place I’d cross town to eat again soon…”

    John Talbott (2012) “… on our preferred Sunday list.”

    Philippe Toinard (2012) “Le décalage entre la cuisine et les tables serrées au cœur d’une décoration beige brun bleu un poil brasserie est tel que l’assiette perd de sa splendeur….c’est rigoureux et généreux, mais il manque cette étincelle qui peut faire la différence. En revanche, on ne peut que saluer la carte des desserts qui fait la part belle aux nostalgiques gourmandises…”

    Photo via Axuria’s Facebook page

    Aux Enfants Gâtés

    Practical information

    Address: 4 rue Danville, 75014
    Nearest transport: Denfert-Rochereau (4, 12, RER B), Gaîté (13)
    Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, plus Saturday dinner.
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone:  01 40 47 56 81
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of Interest

    John Talbott (2014) “An unexpected but gloriously tasty amuse gueule of cold green asparagus soup… a slightly less impressive array of sweetbread morsels (why less impressive? – because while crisp on the outside they were not as moist as I like them on the inside.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2014) “Precise modern bistro cooking with beautifully sourced and vividly fresh produce… the perfect retort to the ongoing kerfuffle about whether French food is still good anymore or needs to be saved or some such… I couldn’t help by being moved by the deep desire to please and nourish that so clearly motivates the admirably proud, hard-working and hospitable Bidaults.”

    Le Figaro (2014) “Avec cette placidité provinciale qui fait le climat de derrière Denfert, une jeune auberge qui s’y entend à cuisiner le simple. Bonne copie classique : produit net, recette claire, assiette sans rature. On n’en demande parfois pas plus…”

    Photo courtesy of Aux Enfants Gâtés website

    L’Abeille

    Practical information

    Address: 10 avenue d’Iéna, 75016
    Nearest transport: Iéna (9)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner only
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 53 67 19 90
    Average price for lunch: More than 100€
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French, haute cuisine
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    L’Express (2015) “Sa cuisine métissée à la fois simple et sophistiquée met en avant des produits et des matières premières impeccablement sourcés. Parfaitement lisibles dès le premier coup d’oeil, les différentes assiettes de notre chef cuisinier rendent hommage à des classiques français réinterprétés avec un remarquable travail sur les sauces et les assaisonnements. Il n’oublie pas non plus de surprendre les fins palais des becs salés avec plusieurs plats qui devraient sans nul doute devenir de futures signatures du restaurant gastronomique.”

    Atabula (2015) “Formé à belle école, il a quitté le vénérable Lasserre pour relever un nouveau défi dans un cadre fastueux, sans perdre une once de ses valeurs identitaires.”

    L’Express (2011) “… chic ultrafrançais… décor très réussi… voilà le chef tout aussi vindicatif sur une poularde de Bresse légèrement fumée, sublimement moelleuse, sertie d’un caviar croquant et chahuté par le mariage amer du sarrasin et du fromage de chèvre.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2011) “I ordered the foie gras, also cooked two ways… this dish was the very definition of ‘haute cuisine,’ or the highest cooking, and eating it, I vacillated between deep pleasure and a profound admiration for the chef… L’Abeille is indeed a haute-cuisine restaurant, and a very fine one which seriously enriches the gastronomic landscape of Paris at that.”

    Le Figaro (2011) “… la cuisine d’ici ose le vent contraire d’un dîner comme un soir de concert autour de recettes très construites, portées sur les variations, ajoutant du subtil au subtil jusqu’à déposer la plupart des mets dans l’aristocratie d’un double service.”

     Photo via L’Abeille’s Facebook page

    Le Pario

    Practical information

    Address: 54 avenue Emile-Zola, 75015
    Nearest transport: Charles-Michels (10)
    Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
    Telephone: 01 45 77 28 82
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 20-39€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    John Talbott (2014) “1 Brazilian chef + 3 French menus = 4 superb meals.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2013) “While Jacinto is a good cook, he remains very much a student of his former master. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but I’d like to see him reference his Brazilian roots a little bit more… I suspect, however, that Jacinto will become a more authoritative chef a few changes of menu from now, and for the time being he’s working with excellent produce and certainly knows how to run a restaurant well.”

    John Talbott (2013) “I began with the veloute of Breton artichokes with artichokes, a cepes ravioli and lardons with a slice of crispy, crunchy, spicy chorizo (wonderful); proceeded to the so-called rabbit fricassee, really a deconstructed rabbit with a compote of cooked figs (pas mal de tout); and for dessert…I got the pear with a sauce bowl of caramel (my oh my).”

    Figaroscope (2013) “Velouté d’artichauts bretons, ravioles de cèpes et lardons: judicieux! Filet de canette de Barbarie, compotée de figues au Porto rouge: l’automne sous la dent. Choux profiteroles: gonflés!”

    Photo courtesy of Alexander Lobrano

    La Table d’Eugène

    Practical information

    Address: 18 rue Eugène Sue, 75018
    Nearest transport: Marcadet-Poissonniers (4, 12)
    Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Reserve a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 55 61 64
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Patricia Wells (2015) “Maillard still has his finger on it all: a lovely varied menu that makes you want to try everything…He has a penchant for lots of citrus and Asian fruits, pairing red-skinned King Edward potatoes with razor clams…His favorite lamb shoulder is teamed up with carrots, honey and cumin. Daily fish specials enjoy the company of mangoes and pomegranates, fennel, daikon and the zest of limes.”

    Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The one great place to eat in Montmartre…the precision and flawless quality of his sophisticated market-driven contemporary French comfort food shows off why Paris still deserves its vaunted gastronomic reputation”

    John Talbott (2010) “For a couple of years it’s been outstanding and tonight was no exception. The place, as usual, was packed with our other neighbors…”

     

    Frédéric Simonin

    Practical information

    Address: 25 rue Bayen, 75017
    Nearest transport: Ternes (2)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 45 74 74 74
    Average price for lunch: 40-59 or 60-100€, depending on which menu you select
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€ or more than €100, depending on which menu you select
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    USA Today (2014) “This 1-Michelin-starred, Joël Robuchon-trained, 30-something chef humbly turns out exquisite meals in his all black-and-white restaurant in the shadows of the Arc de Triomphe.”

    John Talbott (2010) “The food, is, like the decor, expensive, well-done but lacks passion/warmth…”

    Table à Découvert (2010) “… il semble que Frédéric Simonin ait trouvé le bon ton en cuisine, une carte franche…”

    Le Figaro (2010) “… consciencieuse à impressionner, avec tact et technique…”

    Le Sot-l’y-Laisse

    Practical information

    Address: 70 rue Alexandre Dumas, 75011
    Nearest transport: Alexandre Dumas (2), Rue des Boulets (9)
    Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday & Saturday for dinner only; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
    Telephone: 01 40 09 79 20
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    John Talbott (2011) “…worth every rapidly disappearing Euro.”

    Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “…le menu du déjeuner mérite l’éloge, le détour, pour sa générosité, son prix, ses produits frais, ses plats nets, leur précision, leur vigueur, leur légèreté grande.”

    Food Intelligence (2011) “…une cuisine populaire, française, classique, débarrassée de l’inutile – épurée à l’esprit japonais. Un must eat absolu!”

    Photo via Le Sot-l’y-Laisse’s Facebook page

    MaSa

    This is no longer included among the favorite 350 addresses that make up Our Guide to Paris Restaurants. We’ve maintained this page so that you can refer to the practical information and other reviews of interest. Feel free to share your own opinion in the comments.

    Practical information

    Address: 112 avenue Victor Hugo, Boulogne-Billancourt
    Nearest transport: Marcel Sembat (9)
    Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 48 25 49 20
    Average price for lunch: 35-49€
    Average price for dinner: 50-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website

    Reviews of interest

    Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “Toujours aussi pleine de mots, toujours aussi prodigue au pictural mais désormais moins précieuse et plus précise à tenir les promesses d’un style…Œuf à 62 ° façon frita, caramel de piment d’Espelette: presque une confiserie. Quasi de veau, caramel de lactose, morilles fraîches, échalotes: du corps et de l’esprit…”

    John Talbott (2012) “the carte is replete with complicated and intriguing sounding dishes which could easily drive the a la carte bill to more than 80 Euros a person, but luckily at lunch they have a 2-choice one course for 25, two for 35 and three for 42 E…