Category Archives: Modern & Creative

Fulgurances L’Adresse

French food magazine Fulgurances opened L’Adresse in 2015 as a culinary incubator featuring a rotating cast of guest chefs. In 2016, we were blown away by the food of Israeli chef Tamir Nahmias. More recently, we returned for Mariana Villegas, a young Mexican chef who previously passed through Cosme and Union Square Café in New York. Her cooking is bright and inventive. Here's an update on what's happening at Fulgurances.

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Les Enfants du Marché

A key charm of the Marché des Enfants Rouges has long been the discrepancy between the surrounding Marais’ chic tourism and the humid food-hall atmosphere of the market itself. Les Enfants du Marché – a frankly luxuriant, avant-garde dining counter tucked in the rear right of the market – is arguably the first establishment to bridge these two cultures. >> Read More

Dining room at Robert restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Robert

I waited a long time before giving Robert a try. This restaurant from the team behind Martin (Loïc Martin & Edouard Bergeon) opened in February 2018, but early word-of-mouth reviews were very mixed. A common refrain was “it’s expensive for what it is.” >> Read More

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Eels

We haven’t yet reviewed this restaurant, but you can scroll down to find the practical information and to read what others are saying about Eels.

Practical Information

Address: 27 Rue d’Hauteville, 75010
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday from 12:30-14:00 and from 19:30-22:00.
Telephone: +33 (0)1 42 28 80 20
Website    Online Booking    Facebook   Instagram

What people are saying

  • The Financial Times (2018) Nicholas Lander says that his lunch “delivered everything I look for in a meal anywhere: the kind of hospitality I would expect from someone in their own home combined with ultra-professional cooking of straight-forward ingredients.”
  • Le Monde (2018) François Simon calls this a serene spot, noting that chef Adrien Ferrand undoubtedly earned that characteristic alongside his mentor William Ledeuil from Ze Kitchen Galerie. He calls it a sort of comfort food, with plates that are brilliantly balanced and service that is friendly and efficient.
  • Le Fooding (2017) says that Eels “ticks off all the necessary boxes for a Parisian faubourgeois affaire: polished recipes, well-sourced ingredients, unadulterated wines and zero nonsense.” They rave about a dish of smoked eel with licorice-infused browned butter and the wines selected by Félix le Louarn.
  • Alexander Lobrano (2017) calls Eels the best new table of the rentrée “due to the superbly witty, inventive and assured cooking of chef Adrien Ferrand.” He praises the front-of-house staff for delivering “a flawless and charming service experience around the outstanding cooking of Adrien Ferrand.”
  • L’Express (2017) raves about the signature dish with “small sections of lightly smoked fish, hazelnut butter and hazelnut chips for the roundness, a touch of liquorice for spicy sweetness, shoots of oxalis and green apple for freshness.”
  • >> Read More
    Dessance restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Dessance

    We’ve visited and will be adding our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see our photos and what others have said about Dessance.

    Practical information

    Address: 74 rue des Archives, 75003
    Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Rambuteau (11)
    Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday continuously for lunch & dinner
    Telephone: +33 1 42 77 23 62
    Website   Facebook    Instagram

    Dessance in pictures

    Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth

    What people are saying about Dessance

    David Lebovitz (2015) “Like most experimental food, not everything is a hit. A starter of mustard leaf sorbet that was paired with mirabelle plums and smoked cheese (shown up above) tasted – well…like a frozen puree of mustard leaves. But a grated carrot sorbet with pea puree and pea shoots was excellent. And I loved the ripe strawberries with parsley ice cream and fruit leather that led the way to the final course.”

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    Tomy & Co. restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Tomy & Co.

    Tomy & Co. currently holds the #1 ranking in our list of favorite Modern & Creative Restaurants in ParisI loved chef Tomy Gousset’s cooking when he was at Pirouette, but this signature restaurant has just blown me away. The room is comfortable and a little plain, which is to say it fits nicely in the 7th arrondissement, but Gousset’s cuisine is thrillingly modern. He is a master of using herbs, acidity and texture to elevate sometimes humble ingredients like beef tongue or tête de veau. His compositions are intricate and colorful, making them a dream for Instagrammers, but flavor and balance are not sacrificed to beauty. Those who like to try different wines will love their list with a rotating cast of 20 selections by the glass. Service is on point and supports, rather than detracts from the brilliance of the kitchen. The menu changes regularly enough to warrant repeat visits, and I for one can’t wait to go back.  >> Read More

    Astrance

    Astrance is included among our favorite Tasting Menus over 100€

    Practical information

    Address: 4 rue Beethoven, 75016
    Nearest transport: Passy (6)
    Hours: Closed Saturday, Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday.
    Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 40 50 84 40
    Website   Facebook   Instagram

    Astrance in photos

    What people are saying

    Have you been? Leave your own opinion about Astrance in the comments!

    Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “It’s a sanctuary where you can revel in the pleasures of such dishes as spinach with spicy piquillo peppers, chili pepper sorbet, and baby ravioli stuffed with a tangy bite of citron.”

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    L'Office restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Office

    Practical information

    Address: 3 rue Richer, 75009
    Nearest transport: Cadet (7), Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
    Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 70 67 31
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    L’Office in photos

    What people are saying

    Have you been? Leave your own opinion about L’Office in the comments!

    John Talbott (2014) “The newest chef, Konrad Ceglowski, is a master of protein with fruit and veggies… seduced, successfully, by the sauteed calamari with a creamy fennel sauce, zucchini and squid ink.  It was superb, no other word for it.”

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    Figs in Paris restaurants | parisbymouth.com

    Pirouette

    At this beautiful restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles, serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Chef Tomy Gousset departed in 2016 to open Tomy & Co, but Pirouette remains a solid bet.

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    Le Richer restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Le Richer

    An offshoot of the nearby Office, you can stop by this former corner café at all hours of the day and night (sans reservation)  for snacks, small plates, decent coffee, cocktails, or an evening meal. >> Read More

    Fish La Boissonnerie restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Fish (La Boissonnerie)

    This popular restaurant and wine bar run by Drew Harre and Juan Sanchez is a sort of Anglo haven, excellent for a quick glass, a solo dinner at the bar, or for those times when you’re just tired of speaking French. The wine list is populated by small producers, many of them organic and bio-dynamic, with fair prices and plenty of options by the glass. They’re open every day, and we often find ourselves here on a Sunday or Monday when so many other restaurants are closed. Compared to their sister restaurant Semilla, the more gastronomic option across the street, Fish is the reliable bistro and a genuine Saint-Germain institution.

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    52 Faubourg Saint Denis Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

    52 Faubourg Saint Denis

    After L’Office and Le Richer (one of our favorite new openings of 2013), Charles Compagnon is back with another gift for the Faubourg. If he has run out of ideas for restaurant names, the same cannot be said for the dishes coming out of his kitchen. The compact menu with 3-4 choices per course contains plenty that we want to eat: well-roasted duck with coco beans, corn and kale, and an egg yolk ravioli with ham and mushrooms that was satisfyingly reminiscent of one of our favorite dishes at L’Office. Beyond the very good wine list, special attention has been paid to other liquids, starting with their own café Compagnon (roasted by Coutume), including a beer called La Maryse created in collaboration with Dirk Naudrs from De Proef, and finishing with a selection of very special small batch eaux de vie from Christoph Keller at the Stählemühle distillery. Like at Le Richer, this place is open every day with continuous service from 8am to midnight. No reservations, but you can wait (or eat, or drink) at the bar.  >> Read More

    Frenchie Bar à Vins

    One of our Top 50 Paris Restaurants (small sharable plates). If you want a taste of Gregory Marchand’s cooking without the challenge of scoring a reservation at Frenchie, this sister wine bar is a great option. However, there are caveats. A victim of its own popularity, Frenchie Bar à Vins is often chaotic, loud, and (for folks who don’t wish to perch on stools) a little uncomfortable. But chaos and noise, when combined with creative and delicious small plates, not to mention a fascinating wine list, can combine to make for some wonderfully memorable evenings. You shouldn’t go if you need to be seated and fed right away, or if you’re not willing to flag down a friendly server to beg for what you need. Go for rowdy fun, and by all means go early, like right when they open at 6:30pm. Either that, or after the major rush passes, after 10pm. Arrive during peak hours and you can expect to wait for a fairly long time out on the cobblestones.

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    Les Climats Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

    Les Climats

    A destination restaurant for lovers of Burgundy wines, with an airy terrasse that’s available only at lunchtime. The dining room at night is heavy with leopard print and ostrich feather and can feel gaudy or groovy depending on how much Volnay one has consumed. The expensive cuisine is only fine, and it’s not at all the focus. People come here to spend on impressive bottles and because they’re unaccustomed to leaving the 7ème. It remains a good option at lunch when one can sit outside before or after a visit to the nearby Musée d’Orsay.  >> Read More

    Mensae restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Mensae

    Mensae currently holds the #3 ranking in our list of favorite Modern & Creative Restaurants in ParisIn a simple dining room, way up on the Belleville hill and not far from the sprawling Buttes-Chaumont park, some of the best bistro fare in Paris is being served. Comfort food like frogs’ legs dripping in garlic butter and crispy pork belly with braised cabbage share space on the menu with brighter fare like confit trout with beets and horseradish, or a falling-apart lamb shoulder with creamy beans and preserved lemon. There’s a lunch menu at €20, a three-course dinner menu for €36, and a wine list with many good bottles for less than €35 – all of which make this an exceptional value for Paris.  >> Read More

    Elmer

    We’ve visited and will be posting our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see photos and what others have said about Elmer.  >> Read More

    biondi dessert via FB | parisbymouth.com

    Biondi

    Practical information

    Address: 118 rue Amelot, 75011
    Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9)
    Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 00 90 18
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French, Argentinean
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Paris Bouge (2016) “De la côte de bœuf à partager pour deux, ris de veau ou Saint-Jacques jusqu’au duo langoustine et pomme de terres, la braise nourrie au feu de bois enflamme les assiettes à presque tous les coups! Et quand la flamme argentine s’estompe, on s’extasie devant un millefeuille au foie gras et anguille fumée d’anthologie : gras onctueux et fumaison fusionnent et s’électrifient à coups de pickles de betterave et d’un condiment agrumes.”

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    Grandcoeur photo via FB | parisbymouth.com

    Grand Cœur

    Practical information

    Address: 41 rue du Temple, 75004
    Nearest transport: Hôtel de Ville (1, 11), Rambuteau (11)
    Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner and Sunday for lunch
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 58 28 18 90
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Simon Says (2015) “Par esprit de contrariété, j’avais choisi un tartare histoire de voir si les pneus étaient bien dessinés. Impeccable, il fut. Volontaire et déluré, parfait pour dissoudre une mélancolie matinale.”

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    A Mere restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    A Mere

    Practical information

    Address: 49 rue de l’Echiquier, 75010
    Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9)
    Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 48 00 08 28
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    A Mere in pictures

    What people are saying

    Simon Says (2016) “Ces plats cérébraux ne murmurant que par onomatopées sont servis par des barbus au verbe précis, inspirés, souvent plus intelligents que vous et forcément plus jeunes. Il y a une énergie massive, une colère lointaine ramassée en une assiette toute mignonne.”

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    La Fine Mousse Restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    La Fine Mousse Restaurant

    It should come as no surprise that the Parisian craft beer pioneers behind La Fine Mousse bar would be the first to open a restaurant dedicated to beer and food pairings. Slightly more surprising is just how refined, inventive, and delicious the food here is. Knowledgeable beer sommeliers work closely with the talented chef to present an intelligent set of seasonal small plates, paired with beers from one of the 10 taps or the extensive bottle collection.

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    Le Pre Catalan Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

    Le Pré Catelan

    Practical information

    Address: Bois de Boulogne, Route de Suresnes, 75016
    Nearest transport:  La Muette (9) or Avenue Henri Martin (RER C), then a 5-minute cab ride or half-hour walk
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a month or more in advance
    Telephone: +33 (0)1 44 14 41 14
    Average price for lunch: More than 100€
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine:  Modern French, Haute Cuisine
    Website

    Reviews of interest

    L’assiette dans les étoiles (2012) “Côté addition, on est plutôt dans la moyenne basse des 3 macarons parisiens. Il faut compter environ 350 à 400€ par personne avec le grand menu et en buvant largement à sa soif. Cela reste cher mais pas exagéré, l’assiette et le service le méritent amplement.”

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    Zéboulon restaurant near Palais Royal in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Zébulon

    A second effort from the folks behind Pirouette, here with a chef who trained in Japan and his arsenal of anywhere-East-of-here flavors. The two-course 20€ lunch menu on the day of our visit included gnocchi with gingered sea bass, plus steak with caramelized shallots and tempura shimeji mushrooms. The three-course 45€ menu (available lunch & dinner) is a roster of French standards with exotic inflections, like my dish of perfectly cooked turbot accented with nori and encircled by delicate nests of interwoven fennel and shallot strands.  If there’s anything to shrug about, it’s the interior. Design choices that worked well in the shadowy space of Pirouette appear here, in the shadow of the centuries-old Palais Royal, as painfully new. In any case, Zébulon’s arrival is great news for anyone hoping to eat well before or after a visit to the Louvre, and a welcome addition to the increasingly interesting  (VerjusJuveniles,) Palais Royal quarter.  >> Read More

    Yuzu Sable dessert at Coretta restaurant in Paris photo via Facebook | parisbymouth.com

    Coretta

    Practical information

    Address: 151 bis rue Cardinet, 75017
    Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
    Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner and Sunday for lunch only
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 26 55 55
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    John Talbott (2016) “Crispy, crunchy, contemporary cuisine.”

    John Talbott (2015) “A vastly better meal and upgraded opinion.”

    Table à Découvert (2015) “Le ris de veau (spécialité de la maison) est servi ici très croustillant à l’extérieur et bien fondant dedans, avec un enchevêtrement de rhubarbe préparée différemment (séché en chips, cru, croquante, fondante) et de céleri grillé. L’acidulé de la rhubarbe va très bien au ris de veau que je n’ai pas arrêté d’arroser de jus (servi dans un pot à côté)… Un bel équilibre entre onctuosité animale et fraîcheur végétale.”

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    Porte 12

    Overseen by Singapore starred chef André Chiang, Porte 12 opened during the rentrée season of 2014 with Vincent Crepel commanding the open kitchen and Thibault Passinge directing the dining room. Passinge’s enthusiasm for his budding wine list is infectious, and the dishes were some of the best we’ve had in a long time: chinchard draped over Ratte potatoes was visually reminiscent of sashimi, and smoked basil tied it all together in an unexpected way. The volaille with fermented corn was overwhelmingly vulvar in presentation but/and absolutely delicious. With a lunch menu priced at 28 or 35€ we expect door number 12 to be a revolving one. >> Read More

    les affranchis restaurant in paris | parisbymouth.com

    Les Affranchis

    Practical information

    Address: 5 rue Henri Monnier, 75009
    Nearest transport: Saint-Georges (12)
    Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
    Telephone: 01 45 26 26 30
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Simon Says (2015) “C’est vivant, très bon et servi à une clientèle sous le charme. Décor oubliable, tables parfois rapprochées (il existe des coins aussi) mais expérience recommandable.”

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    Neige d'été restaurant in Paris photo via FB | parisbymouth.com

    Neige d’été

    Practical information

    Address: 12 rue de l’Amiral Roussin, 75015
    Nearest transport: Cambronne (6), Commerce (8), Avenue Émile Zola (10)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 73 66 66
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    The New York Times (2015) “Hideki Nishi dabbles in modern French cuisine including salmon with a Gorgonzola millefeuille.”

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    Nakatani restaurant in Paris photo via FB | parisbymouth.com

    Nakatani

    Practical information

    Address: 27 rue Pierre Leroux, 75007
    Nearest transport: Vaneau (10)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 34 94 14
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€
    Average price for dinner: 60-100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Figaroscope (2015) “Homard en chapelure de poutargue, endives à l’orange: le végétal parfait, le crustacé un peu alibi. Volaille de Chalosse, petit chou farci: d’une gourmandise réservée. Moelleux de courge, clémentines marinées: diaphane.”

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    Hexagone

    Practical information

    Address: 85 avenue Kléber, 75016
    Nearest transport: Trocadéro (6, 9), Iéna (9)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 25 98 85
    Average price for lunch: 40-59€ or more than 100€ depending on which tasting menu you choose
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2015) “Du côté des casseroles comme en d’autres circonstances, lorsque les filiations s’en mêlent, pas facile de se faire un prénom. Histoire de boucler les petits clapets de la gastrosophie, Mathieu Pacaud, fils de Bernard (figure de proue du milieu, du côté de L’Ambroisie), se lance, en solo, dans l’ambition d’une première adresse assumant l’envergure.”

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