Le Rigmarole (NOW CLOSED)
NOW CLOSED
Latest additions
Le Mazenay
Le Mazenay is a modest bistro that’s serving classic French food with subtle Vietnamese accents. The restaurant is named after the village in Burgundy where chef Denis Groison was born, and the wine list reflects his ties to this region. But Groison grew up to travel the world, cooking in Singapore and Hanoi, and marrying a Vietnamese woman named Lan who very expertly oversees the dining room of their mom and pop restaurant in the Marais. He makes simple and… Read More »Le Mazenay
Bofinger (Return visit)
Bofinger is a beautiful old brasserie in the Marais that serves Alsatian dishes like choucroute and flammekueche. A lot of people have special memories tied to Bofinger, and I don’t want to talk them out of their attachments. But Bofinger (pronounced bo-fan-zhay) is not a destination for food lovers. The space is enormous, which makes it easy to get in without a reservation at the last minute. But their size is the restaurant’s downfall. It’s hard to flag a server… Read More »Bofinger (Return visit)
Elmer
Elmer is a modern bistro In the northern Marais, not far from République. Chef Simon Horwitz (ex-Septime, Pierre Gagnaire) bases his ever-changing menus around impeccable seasonal ingredients and has an affinity for large portions intended to be shared by two or more diners. I recently returned for a solo lunch and was blown away by how good (and sneakily healthy) everything was. Delicious line caught cod was barely napped by sauce matelote and served with charred white asparagus and broccoli.… Read More »Elmer
Verjus Restaurant
Verjus is a restaurant near the Palais Royal that offers one of our favorite tasting menus in Paris. It’s the creation of an American couple, Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian, who opened this light and airy restaurant back in 2011. After being closed for several years (the pandemic + a renovation of their exhaust system), Verjus is planning to reopen on May 9. The lengthy closure gave them time to test new dishes at Twenty-Two Club, a supper club in… Read More »Verjus Restaurant
Prunier
Prunier is a historic caviar and seafood house that opened near the Arc de Triomphe in 1924. It boasts some incredible art déco frescos and moldings from that period has been owned until recently by Pierre Bergé, co-founder of the YSL fashion house. Chef Yannick Alléno of the three-star restaurant Ledoyen has recently taken over the kitchen at Prunier and is putting his own spin on iconic dishes like the Christian Dior egg (with caviar, cream and ham aspic). Prunier… Read More »Prunier
Soces
Soces is a seafood restaurant in Belleville, not far from the wonderful Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Chef Marius de Ponfilly (ex-Clamato) is preparing gorgeous small plates with modest prices, alongside a few whole fish or and a handful of meaty options. There’s a strong selection of cheese, too. The room is beautiful. We really loved our first visit. Soces has been included among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris and our favorite spots for seafood. SOCES 32 rue de la Villette, 75019Open… Read More »Soces
Septime (return Visit)
One of the the best contemporary tasting menus in Paris, and still one of the most difficult reservation to get.
Dame Augustine
Lilian Douchet opened Dame Augustine in 2022 after making a name for himself on Top Chef. This restaurant near Gobelins offers a là carte options alongside moderately priced tasting menus (48€ and 68€). Douchet’s dishes are creative without being gimmicky. Everything we tasted was perfectly cooked and well-balanced. This is great option for southern Paris, especially on a Sunday. Reservations are accepted up to two months in advance, but last minute bookings are usually possible (this may change as we… Read More »Dame Augustine
yam’Tcha (return Visit)
After working for Pascal Barbot at Astrance, Adeline Grattard opened yam’Tcha in 2009 in a tiny space in Les Halles. Combining influences and ingredients from Hong Kong with her French training, and offering tea pairings by Chi Wah Chan, yam’Tcha become a major sensation. A Michelin star followed, along with an episode of (the Netflix show) Chef’s Table. Yam’Tcha was, for a time, the hardest table to book in Paris. The hype has (somewhat) abated, and it’s now possible to… Read More »yam’Tcha (return Visit)
Café des Musées (Return Visit)
Café des Musées is a reasonably-priced bistro in the heart of the Marais with a notable beef bourguignon.
Mer & Coquillage
Mer & Coquillage is a seafood restaurant near the Louvre that’s open on Monday. With soft lighting, candles, gleaming silverware and kind service, it’s a beautiful option when you need to impress. Mer & Coquillage has been included among our of 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. MER & COQUILLAGE 36 Rue des Petits Champs, 75002Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinnerOpen Saturday for dinner onlyClosed SundayReservations online or at +33 1 42 33 00 22 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF MER &… Read More »Mer & Coquillage
Frenchie (return Visit)
Frenchie is the original outpost from Gregory Marchand, a chef who trained with Jamie Oliver in the UK and Danny Meyer in the USA. They hold one Michelin star and serve a no-choice tasting menu with five courses for 140€. The optional wine pairings are usually excellent. Frenchie opened in 2009 and has been a very tough reservation since at least 2010. Reservations open three weeks before a given date (Mon-Fri) and all tables are usually booked within a few… Read More »Frenchie (return Visit)
Arboré
This new restaurant from Pauline Séné (ex-Fripon) is skippable.
Chez Casimir
Chez Casimir is a long-standing casual bistro near Gare du Nord that’s now being run by a new team. It’s a good option for those who love charcuterie, offal and wild game, especially when you need something that’s open on Monday and near the train station. There were some tasty dishes, but Chez Casimir is not included among our 50 Favorite Restaurants in Paris. CHEZ CASIMIR 6 Rue de Belzunce, 75010Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinnerOpen Saturday for dinner only… Read More »Chez Casimir
Le Severo
Book one of the ten tables at Le Severo when you’re craving beef, whether that’s in the form of tartare, haché, filet, tataki, bavette, onglet, or côte de boeuf. These are selected and aged by owner / butcher William Bernet, served with excellent fries, and accompanied by one of the best wine lists in town (Beaujolais and Rhone, in particular). Le Severo has been here forever, welcoming visitors and regulars to its little corner of the 14th arrondissement for what… Read More »Le Severo
Le Chateaubriand (return Visit)
Since Le Chateaubriand opened in 2006, we’ve watched it transform the city’s dining scene and seen it rise and fall in the World’s 50 Best rankings. We returned recently and were delighted to find that it’s still one of our top picks for a casual (not fine dining) tasting menu in Paris. We recommend it for diners who are on the more adventurous side – those who enjoy natural wine and an unfussy, frenetic dining room. Le Chateaubriand may no longer have the… Read More »Le Chateaubriand (return Visit)
Café Des Ministères
First the bad news: Café des Ministères is almost impossible to book right now. We named it our best restaurant of 2022, and plenty of newspapers (Le Figaro, the New York Times) have lavished similar praise. If you manage to get in (they open online bookings three weeks in advance of a particular date), don’t neglect to order the choux farci façon Reine with leaves of Pontoise cabbage lacquered around a tender mound of smoky sausage and foie gras, in… Read More »Café Des Ministères
Pétrelle
Pétrelle is one of the romantic restaurants in Paris, and it’s also one of the most delicious. Chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot and her team create a beautiful tasting menu that changes every week to reflect the seasons, and Luca Danti ensures that everyone in the dining room feels very well taken care of.
Bistrot Paul Bert (return Visit)
No longer included among our favorite Paris restaurants.
Datsha Underground
Datsha Underground is a modern and creative spot in the Marais that’s really more scene than restaurant. It feels like it has been designed for a fashion week clientele, right down to the vegan and vegetarian options and the (not really) “hidden” cocktail bar Spootnik in the basement.
The opening chef Alexia Duchêne had departed by the time we visited. It’s currently helmed by chef
Baptiste Trudel, who was a Top Chef contestant in 2021. We tasted a lot of dishes and didn’t care for most of them – there were too many trendy ingredients that didn’t come together to actually taste good.
Benoit
Open since 1912, this picture-postcard Paris bistro serves elevated and expensive French classics.
Vive
Not far from the Arc de Triomphe, chef Stéphanie Le Quellec (La Scène) opened this seafood restaurant in the Fall of 2022 with her husband David. We’ve included it among our favorite places for seafood in Paris. VIVE 62 Avenue des Ternes, 75017Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinnerOpen Saturday and Monday for dinner onlyClosed SundayReservations online or at +33 6 76 19 72 83 OUR PHOTOS OF VIVE SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER
Ilô
I really wanted to like this shoebox sized restaurant in the Marais. They seem sincere, but my single visit was a disaster. Their server couldn’t handle the small number of tables crammed between the stone walls. We spent an excruciatingly long time without anything to drink and between every course. The Japanese inflected dishes, when they arrived, were either confused or forgettable. I brought a friend for her one big meal in Paris and felt so sorry afterwards. ILÔ 6… Read More »Ilô
Grande Brasserie
Grande Brasserie has a lot of things going for it. The vintage décor, in the space that used to be Le Petit Bofinger, is gorgeous. Light streams in through the large windows, and the walls are adorned beautiful old murals and posters. Owner Adrien Spanu has a lot of restaurant friends who helped him put together one of the best wine lists in Paris (hint: it looks a lot like the ones you’ll find at Semilla and Fish). It’s centrally… Read More »Grande Brasserie
Bistrot des Tournelles
The Bistrot des Tournelles opened in 2022 and was named “Best Bistro of 2023” by Le Fooding. They’re not the only ones who raved – I know plenty of people who loved their experience here. I found it to be pretty good, but certainly not the best of the year. Classic desserts like crème brûlée, tarte Tatin and chocolate mousse were delicious. Salmon gravlax and oeufs mayo starters were “correct” and tasty. Two dishes were downright bad – the croque… Read More »Bistrot des Tournelles
Capitaine
Capitaine is a modern bistro tucked into a quiet Marais street just south of the Place des Vosges. The decor is pure (Brittany?) bistro, with bare wooden tables, moleskine banquettes, and assorted maritime kitsch. The menu appears at first glance to match this bistro vibe, but look closely: duck breast is dotted with prik pao sauce, raw oysters are garnished with shredded carrot, chile and peanuts, and fraise de veau (an intestinal membrane) carries the flavors of mapo tofu.
Flocon
Flocon is a sincere and locavore-leaning new restaurant run by a pair of brothers on the rue Mouffetard.
Robert restaurant (return Visit)
Robert is a small restaurant in the 11th that has had multiple chefs since opening in 2018. Following Peter Orr and Daniel Morgan, Jack Bosco is now running the kitchen and serving a menu that’s much more focused on meat and fish than his predecessor. The produce is still sourced from the restaurant’s own gardens in the Loire valley, but Robert is no longer a “haven for vegetarians,” as we described it when Daniel Morgan was the chef. Robert is not included… Read More »Robert restaurant (return Visit)
Parcelles
Parcelles is a wonderful new addition to the Marais. They’re a modern bistro serving classic dishes like sweetbreads and stuffed cabbage with very thoughtful updates. The dining room is lovely, service is kind, and the wine list is killer. Chef Julien Chevalier doesn’t change his menu very often, but it’s reliably good. PARCELLES 13 Rue Chapon, 75003Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerClosed SundayReservations online or at +33 1 43 37 91 64 OUR PHOTOS OF PARCELLES IN OTHER WORDS Alexander Lobrano (2022)… Read More »Parcelles
Anne
Anne is a one-star restaurant in the Marais at Le Pavillon de la Reine hotel. The kitchen is overseen by Mathieu Pacaud, son of Bertrand Pacaud, chef of the nearby three-star L’Ambroisie. Pacaud the younger has a history of “signing menus” at extravagant restaurants, many of them in luxury hotels. The food is delicious, but the main draw is the chance to dine in a beautiful courtyard that serves as the entrance to Le Pavillon de la Reine hotel. It’s… Read More »Anne
Acte II
Acte II is a restaurant in the Marais from chef Masahide Ikuta. It pains me to say that I don’t recommend this restaurant, because it has one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. When I came out of the elevator (you have to hunt and find one to reach this rooftop restaurant) I actually gasped to see the sun setting over the gorgeously glowing buildings of the Marais. However, the food is a muddled mess.
Reyna
Chef Erica Parades opened this brick and mortar spot in 2022 after a stretch spent organizing pop-ups for her Filipino fusion cuisine. You’ll find fried chicken and what Emily Monaco described as the ultimate umami bomb – a dish of grilled hispi cabbage topped with sesame and gochujang-spiced mayonnaise and studded with bottarga shards.
Shabour
With seats arranged around the central kitchen, Israeli Chef Assaf Granit’s Shabour is as much a theater as it is a culinary experience blending French and Mediterranean flavors. Shabour has been included among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. SHABOUR 19 rue Saint-Saveur, 75002Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerOpen Monday for dinner onlyClosed SundayReservations online or at +33 6 95 16 13 87 OUR PHOTOS OF SHABOUR IN OTHER WORDS Le Figaro (2020) features Shabour on its list of best Parisian restaurants… Read More »Shabour
Chanceux
Denizens of eastern Paris feel lucky to live near Chanceux, an all-day café, restaurant, wine shop and épicerie that opened last year near the utterly charming Square Gardette. For breakfast you can get a fresh baguette with butter and homemade jam for 5 euros, or a wonderful plate with ham, Cantal cheese, a soft-boiled egg and toasts with buckwheat butter for 10 euros. For lunch, you can try the za’atar dusted brioche with hokkaido squash and chiles or a small… Read More »Chanceux
Pouliche
Chef Amandine Chaignot has been a judge on the French show MasterChef for the better part of a decade. At her restaurant Pouliche, she puts out pretty plates for an Instagram crowd in a dining room that could be ripped from the pages of a West Elm catalog. The menu is heavy with vegetarian options – Wednesday is entirely vegetarian – and the space is filled with pretty young things. Portions are tiny. Read our full review of Pouliche. 11 Rue d’Enghien,… Read More »Pouliche
Fripon
Since chef Pauline Séné left this restaurant in Ménilmontant, we not longer recommend it.
Astier
This classic, checkered tablecloth bistro with an excellent cheese plate.
Café les Deux Gares
This is affordable and really well-executed modern bistro fare, based on exceptional seasonal ingredients. Café les Deux Gares may be off the beaten track but it’s worth the journey, Especially on a Monday night. It’s also great for lunch, with beautiful natural light and a dining room full of regulars. Café les Deux Gares has been included among our favorite restaurants in Paris. CAFÉ LES DEUX GARES 1 Rue des Deux Gares, 75010Open Monday-Saturday from 9am-midnight. Closed Sunday.Reservations online or at +33… Read More »Café les Deux Gares
Les Enfants du Marché
Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.
Huîtrerie Régis
Régis’ fantastic oysters come from the Marenne-Oleron and are available for dégustation on the spot in the sea blue dining room, to to take home.
Carboni’s
Carboni’s is an Italian restaurant in the Marais that replaced Carbón, in the same space and from that same team. Their change of concept followed a fire and a pandemic, and has drawn a particularly Parisian crowd who seem not to know that this is not Amatriciana. Dishes like the giant veal chop are highly Instagrammable, and most taste pretty good. I particularly liked my starter of artichokes with bottarga. They’re a good option for groups, especially ones that include… Read More »Carboni’s
Breizh Café Marais
Well-sourced products plus unlikely Japanese touches put Breizh Café head and shoulders above most crêperies.
Norma
When you’ve eaten your fill of French fare, give the fresh pasta from Norma a try. This Italian restaurant in the heart of the North Marais boasts a menu rich in both filled and non-filled pastas, including the paccheri alla norma with fried aubergines. A great choice for vegetarians that’s open for dinner on Monday nights (and lunch on both Sundays and Mondays). Norma is also famous for its egg “alla milanese” – an anchovy-scented Scotch-egg-like concoction comprised of a battered and… Read More »Norma
Le Collier de la Reine
Le Collier de la Reine is a a trendy new spot for seafood in the northern Marais. Go for the oysters, fries and people watching. You might be tempted to stray from the seafood platter and order one of the cooked dishes. Don’t do it. Stick with the oysters, langoustines and other briny options, and be sure to order at least one side of fries – they might be the best in Paris. LE COLLIER DE LA REINE 57 Rue… Read More »Le Collier de la Reine
Candide
In a city dominated by kitchens that send shared small plates out the instant they’re ready – even if that means diners must resort to balancing the bread basket on their knees – rare is the gem that gets the category right: service that’s casual but still attentive, with plates that are simple yet surprising. Candide strikes that balance marvelously: a small plates restaurant that feels like a restaurant, from the expert service to the delightful, creative dishes. The small dining room… Read More »Candide
Early June
A restaurant run by a chef-in-residence is a difficult thing to review, but we’re gonna try. Welcoming a slate of visiting chefs from across the world, Early June is an airy, no-reservations restaurant just off the Canal Saint-Martin boasting a robust natural wine “list” (Yes, this is the sort of place where you’ll have to fight – hard – to see what’s on offer and may just have to capitulate and trust the somm). The funky-or-funkier wines accompany a selection of seasonal small plates… Read More »Early June
Juveniles
The casual neighborhood bistro we all dream about, complete with a charming host (Margaux) who remembers your previous visit, and her chef-husband Romain who makes beautiful bistro food in a tiny kitchen. The atmosphere is friendly and familial, despite the posh location near the Louvre. The wine cellar that began with Margaux’s father Tim Johnston remains one of the most delightful and well-priced in the city. The house-made terrine and rice pudding are recommended book-ends to your meal. Juveniles is… Read More »Juveniles
Chez L’Ami Jean
Chef Stéphane Jego was an early star of the bistronomie movement, elevating traditional bistro fare with the sort of techniques and emphasis on quality ingredients that one might expect from finer dining. His simple, cheerful dining room at Chez l’Ami Jean has not wavered in quality, even though the dining room is filled with visitors expressing delight in foreign tongues. Meat and fish options abound (vegetarians beware), but wild game is the star when in season. CHEZ L’AMI JEAN 27 rue Malar,… Read More »Chez L’Ami Jean
Auberge Nicolas Flamel
Auberge Nicolas Flamel is a modernist restaurant situated in one of the oldest buildings (1407) in the Marais. Helmed by chef Grégory Garimbay, who previously worked for Alain Ducasse, it currently holds one Michelin star and offers tasting menus priced at 128€ and 145€ and 178€.
I’m not a fan. I love the idea of enjoying contemporary creations in a medieval setting, but very few dishes were successful. They were visually alluring and imaginative, but they very simply weren’t tasty.
Milagro
In a neighborhood that isn’t necessarily known for fresh flair, Milagro bears its miraculous name well. Steps from his popular Zia, which brought craft coffee and brunch to this street overlooking the Eiffel Tower, Chef Justin Kent (ex-Arpège and Agapé Substance) is serving a creative mashup of the New Mexican flavors of his childhood and the techniques gleaned from his French training. Think Peruvian bass ceviche with leche de tigre or a truly excellent celery root steak served with broccolini… Read More »Milagro
Petit Navire
Lovers of natural wine and plant-driven small plates positively bursting with flavor have found their home at Petit Navire – a tiny, nautically-themed restaurant near the Parc de Belleville. This restaurant serves a panoply of internationally-inspired dishes that skew Mediterranean: Think accras with turmeric yogurt, zucchini “meatballs” with fresh herbs and lemon, or slow-cooked lamb with Paimpol beans. Roasted eggplant is a frequent flier, thanks to mastery of the nightshade by Canadian Chef Lily Hu (ex-Ellsworth); no matter its topping… Read More »Petit Navire
Le Saint-Sébastien
Le Saint-Sébastien is known for its handmade charcuterie, vegetable-driven (but not vegetarian) cooking, and desserts with a savory spin. The 400-reference-strong wine list and impeccable service make this neighborhood restaurant one worth crossing the city for. Now helmed by chef Christopher Edwards, the menu features plenty of peak-season produce, line-caught fish and an incredible selection of white wine and craft beer for sipping on the sidewalk terrace. Recommended for Great Vegetarian Food in Paris. Le Saint-Sebastién has been included our favorite… Read More »Le Saint-Sébastien
Alliance
I never got the chance to go to Astrance when it first opened on a sleepy street in the 16th, quietly hustling without the weight of so many Michelin stars. But I imagine it must have felt a lot like dining at Alliance. What the two restaurants have in common is the partnership of an exceptionally talented chef (Toshitaka Omiya) with a masterful and welcoming mâitre d’hôtel (Shawn Joyeux). The service experience is always important, but it carries extra weight… Read More »Alliance
Quinsou
Chef Antonin Bonnet is serving beautiful food in a serene (bordering on sleepy) dining room just south of Le Bon Marché in Saint-Germain. At night, the five course tasting menu for 95€ includes an excellent cheese course – our most recent visit included Brie de Meaux under a shower of black truffle. A four course tasting menu is available at lunch for 75€. A lovely spot for a quiet or romantic dinner. Quinsou has been included among our favorite restaurants… Read More »Quinsou
L’Avant-Comptoir du Marché
Of Yves Camdeborde’s three Avant Comptoirs, this is the one worth making a special trip – a place where the scale of the site finally matches that Camdeborde’s ambition.
Brutos
Brutos offers a contemporary dining experience with a South American accent and an exquisite rib steak for two.
Le Petit Sommelier
Le Petit Sommelier is a rare high-quality non-stop brasserie with a 1000-reference-strong wine list.
Racines
The picturesque Passage des Panoramas is home to this cozy Italian-accented spot with a short, simple menu and natural wine list.
L’Ami Louis
L’Ami Louis is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Paris. It’s dark and dramatic, with white jacketed servers bringing overflowing plates of snails, foie gras, and other classic French dishes. The roast chicken, with its accompanying tower of shoestring fries, is as good as everyone says it is. But L’Ami Louis is also one of the most clubby restaurants in Paris. It’s filled with regulars, it’s hard to get a table, and the prices are high enough to scare most tourists away. That’s probably by design. If you need to ask how much the roast chicken costs (it inches closer to 100 euros every year), then L’Ami Louis is probably not for you. It remains one of our favorite places in Paris, when someone else has gone to the trouble to book and ideally when someone else is paying.
Adar
Adar offers Mediterranean-inspired fare from chef Tamir Nahmias in the picturesque Passage des Panoramas.
Pastore
Pastore is a contemporary Italian restaurant near Grands Boulevards boasting a relatively spacious dining room as compared to many of its Parisian counterparts. The 250-reference wine list is sure to offer the perfect accompaniment to Sicilian chef Lorenzo Sciabica’s exquisite pastas or the city’s best burrata – served simply with a drizzle of infused olive oil.
Clown Bar
In 2016, the team from Saturne took over a historic bar near the Cirque d’Hiver and installed chef Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant) in the kitchen. Atsumi’s dishes dominated Instagram for a solid two years, and Clown Bar became one of the town’s most difficult reservations to snag. The Saturne team (and restaurant) has since dissolved amid rumors of wine theft and partner animosity. Atsumi has moved on to open Maison. Clown Bar remains open, and Atsumi’s iconic creations, including the brain and… Read More »Clown Bar
Le Clarence
Le Clarence is a fine dining restaurant in a private Paris mansion near the Champs-Élysées. It opened in 2017 and holds two Michelin stars. In 2022, it ranks #28 on the World’s Best Restaurants list. The luxurious space is owned by Prince Robert of Luxembourg and was decorated to evoke the Château Haut-Brion in Bordeaux, which he also owns. It’s gorgeous. Dining here is a chance to peek behind the curtain and live like an aristocrat for a few hours,… Read More »Le Clarence